arkie

The silversmithing was very interesting, but there was little regarding blacksmithing, sadly.

Jerome, For holding your work, you might try a "goal post" like I made for my brake drum forge, also to hold longer pieces in the fire. I made an "H" shaped contraption out of 1/2" rod. I tack welded a couple of U-shaped holders to the side of the forge that the goal post can slide up and down in. I then drilled several 1/4" holes in the lower portion of the uprights so as to allow vertical adjustment by using 1/4" pins through the upright holes. You can put the cross piece of the H-brace lower so as to allow a more horizontal lay for your work. Posting a picture for the first time...hope it works.

Suggestion appreciated. Thanks to Gordon Williams for helping a novice blacksmith hone his skills and make his work a bit easier!

Frosty, I really like your hold-down dog. I need one to hold fast for marking things, etc. not carving as in your case (nice, by the way). Gonna make one tomorrow since I have an urgent need for something like that. Thanks for posting the pics.

Great illustration!! In color as well :)

It's my understanding that you shouldn't jamb your work down deep into the fire, since that's where the air blast (oxygen) is greatest and results in an oxidizing fire rather than merely heating your work...detrimental to the steel being worked. The pros probably can expound more on this.

Beautiful work! Even better, being your first hawk. The tiger stripe maple handle really gives it some character.

After you have removed the soft, powdery surface rust, the remaining deep rust is in itself a protective layer. Sandblasting, acid, or any other harsh removal technique will not do it any good. Electrolysis...maybe OK, but you still have to protect the fresh metal. Recalling that old muzzleloader rifle barrels weren't "blued", they were "browned". The process consisted of a controlled, accelerated rusting action using acids that built up a very tough, corrosion resistant layer on the barrel. When I built a couple of them, I had to draw-file the barrel flats down to fresh metal, then apply the browning solution and keep the humidity high for several days. Afterwards, the barrels were "carded" with steel wool to remove surface rust and the resulting finish was hard and rust/corrosion resistant. Like others have said, brush it, put some linseed or other protectant on it and enjoy.

STOP RIGHT THERE!!!! Put some good ole mesquite in that drum, fire it up, throw a grate over it and cook up some steaks before it steeeeenks like coal! :D

Rascal, the far right photo really helped me solve a problem with a 4" post vise I just bought. It needs to be a bit mobile, but solid as I can get with that situation. I have a piece of 1/4" scrap plate about 2' x 2' and if I weld a post or pipe for a stand and a top plate to bolt the vise to like yours, I could move it around with a two-wheel dolly. I also have a piece of 1/2" C-channel about 1 ft. square with a 2" or 3" edge. Might weld the channel flat side up to the 1/4" plate, then weld the post or pipe to that to give it a lot more base weight. Thanks for the idea. :)

Aaron, Would you kindly PM me with particulars on your ebay site and hammers? Thanks.

nankbrown, Being a beginner at blacksmithing, tongs at first were a bit intimidating to me what with all the various styles. The experienced smiths here might not agree with me, but I started with a very simple style of flat jaw tongs, using the Dempsey method. After a couple of those, you will find you gain confidence and then go on to make the more detailed, intricate Brazeal, Epps, etc. styles. Word of caution on the Dempsey style which uses bar stock with a twist on the jaws: make sure your twist is with your metal orange to yellow and make it slowly. If it's too cool and/or you twist it too fast, cracks are almost a guarantee. Also, one write-up on the method has one making a series of fuller notches down the bar stock when drawing out the reins. I made the mistake on the first set by hammering the fuller notches even after they went to dull red. Result...cracks on every notch except where I stopped hammering at a bright red. Good luck on the tongs...hang in there!

This is a little late in the thread, damien, but looking at the photo it appears that you are resting the outside heel of your hand on the hammer while striking rather than a "handshake" like some have suggested. Next time at the forge, freeze part ways through your strikes and take note of where the heel of your hand is. Looks like it's taking the brunt of your rubbing. Agree with many others, lose the synthetic handles. Wood is the way. I have one hammer with a plastic handle and hate it. Will be re-handleing it. Love the others with wood.

Backyard... I had the same problem on my portable forge. I originally had 6" steel lawnmower wheels on it, but trying to move it through gravel was a PITA. I got some 10" steel wheels, 1/2" ball bearings at amazon. Best price I had found searching around. They work great now. Only problem is they are white...funky looking. Will paint them black. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VOED5S/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

Beautiful job!!! Let us know how it works out. I would be interested in the slots on the sides. I had slots on my portable forge very similar to yours (except it is a brake drum model) and I kept knocking and accidentally raking coal out the slots, probably wasted nearly as much as I used!! Finally, I welded a bar across the opening to keep my coal onboard and now it's much better. :)

X2 on the name brand!! Those welders are AC only, no DC. For AC/DC on the Lincoln 225's, they will set you back close to $500 depending on where you buy them.

I would shy away from the 110-115V class of arc welders if you plan on doing much welding in the future or will be doing heavy welding now. They have limited capabilities compared to the 220V types. You will save $ initially on the 110V types, but the majority of folks find that they eventually have to move up to a more powerful welder, i.e. 220V, and then have to spend more $ for another welder. Search craigslist where you can usually pick up a used welder in good shape in your price range or a bit more. AC/DC welders will weld in AC or DC mode. In DC mode most will do DC- or DC+. DC+ is electrode positive, ground (work clamp) negative. DC- is opposite. DC+ usually gives you better penetration with most rods than DC-. For more detailed info, I suggest you cruise over to a welding forum, sign up and ask questions.

Brian, newbie here... Thanks for explaining the fullering on the hammers and hardie. I always thought it was just for cosmetic purposes. The way I hammer, the fullering to isolate the material is a great concept!

Glenn, I am a newbie to the forum, and I am amazed at how "clean" it is. No snipping, arguments, personal attacks, etc. Really a pleasure to be a part of IFI!! If anyone thinks there are problems here, just cruise over to some of the welding forums. Those can be like an internet free-for-all. Newbies are simply fresh meat on some. Keep up the good work on a great site and forum!! :)

Hannes, We all work with what we have. Great that you have the resources to build your forge! BTW, I don't think you will have to change out your bolts very soon/often. They will usually be covered with coal and won't get very hot; and getting "dirty" will give them some protection.

A Snicker's Bar will cure just about anything...next to that, peanut butter works pretty well too!!

Vaughn... My idea of splitting lengthways was more "tounge in cheek" than a real suggestion...but if an experienced smith could pull it off, why not?

OK,...OK,...OK,...I got it figgered out. Make one very wide tong "half" and then split it longways!!!!! Perfect match on the split pieces. All you gotta do is round off the reins. :wub:

Thors... Those are indeed clinkers. They will significantly block airflow. You can carefully hook onto or shovel them out with the air turned down or off while forging. They can be "sticky" and can be lifted out carefully when hot, but may fall apart since they can be soft. If you only are forging a short time, you can wait until things cool down, like the next day and remove them easier after they have hardened. Some forges have clinker breakers to aid in getting rid of the clinkers. On my brake drum forge, after a long time, I have had them be up to 4" in diameter and 1/2" to 3/4" thick....no wonder my fire was not doing anything!!! Gotta remember to dig them out more frequently. Getting up on the learning curve

In one writeup on the Dempsey method of twisting the jaw portion, it had you forging each end of a bar, then when finished with each end, cutting it in half. That's probably not what you are referring to, however. I just finished a set of tongs using the Dempsey method, but I used two separate bars. That way, when I finished the first half to my satisfaction, I could forge the second part to match the first by laying them down side by side. Doing each end of a bar doesn't allow you to make the comparison as you work.