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Showing results for tags 'Hardie'.
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Made a new Hardie cut off. Made it out of an old splitting wedge. I will use it as my hot cut but I did temper it. Am I wasting time doing that? My thought was it might hold the edge a little longer. It fixes nice and tight with just a couple light taps to release it.
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The hardy hole on my anvil is about 3/4 inch square. I prefer to have the shaft sticking out below the anvil, particularly with a Brian Brazeal hot cut hardy, so I can knock it out easy. So what I propose to do is slit the stock near where I want the shaft to lock into the hardy and then forge a wedge to fit the slit. Then I can hammer the wedge which is cold into the slit which is hot. This should result in a shaft that drops into the hardy up to the expanded part near the wedge and then hammer it in letting the edges or the hardy hole create as shoulder on the shaft.
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I was hunting around in the scrap for some sculpture parts when I found a few of these things. They are teeth for a loader bucket or some other earthmover, but I'm thinking they might be a useful hot cut hardie. If I cut the tabs off the bottom and weld on a square section to suit the hardie hole I can't see why it wouldn't work. Would save a lot of forge work. I'm not sure if it's hard faced, tempered or what, so I haven't taken the grinder to the cutting edge yet. A file wants to skid off. Any ideas for a hardie tool or just chuck them back in the scrap?
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Came across this tool set on eBay. Ebay link removed Thinking they may not be any good but was wondering what you guys have to say. They state made from "ductile iron" but isn't that just basic cast iron. Do they require hardening ? Will they stand up to light duty use . My anvil has a 3/4" Hardie hole, I was thinking of getting a set in 7/8" and grinding the shank down to fit. Thks for reading and any comments/infomation.
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Got another item off the to forge list over the weekend! forged myself a Brazeal style hot cut hardie with tapered shank and curved blade. did most of it solo as I was starting with just 3/4" sucker rod (4130), which is not terribly difficult to forge. had to enlist some help to forge the fullers and strike on the flatter because I ran out of hands. it is actually as small as it looks, my anvil's hardie is 5/8" so it had to be pretty small to fit. unfortunately because I started with a piece that I had previously squared up for an unrelated project I ended up with a much narrower waist th
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Not to long ago i picked up an 'auto body half-football dolly with grip' from a harbor freight parking lot sale ($4.99!) i bought it with the intent to use it as a bottom fuller/psuedo horn becaues the horn on my little ASO is pretty flat on top, like a round edged triangle. trouble is the blasted grip is far too large to fit the 1" hardie :( ideally i would like to reforge (handled top fuller over the horn and a striker) the shank to bring it down to about 1" square, or at least close enough to where a massage from the belt grinder will finish it up without wasting too much material
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Does any one know where I could but an actual anvil and not a railroad track for 60 to 40 bucks? Also equipped with a Pritchel and hardy or Hardie (which ever way)?
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Hello Everyone, I am in need of a hardie hot cut-off tool for my Anvil. I would like to forge one myself and looking for some direction. I have thought it thought it through and I am sure I can pull it off but I figured I could get some expert advice to help in the process. Thank you, JR
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Ok the vast about of info. is sending me in circles. My plan is to buy stock to make some spring swages and a cutoff hardie (one inch hole). H13 seemed to be a great choice (keeps form at heat, easy? to heat treat, tough). I was reading some of Brian Brazeal's comments about tools and he mentioned that it was very difficult to forge by hand H13. 4140 was available free to him and worked just fine. I see lots of commercially available spring swages and hardies made from 4140 so the metal is a good choice. My question is; What are peoples experience hand forging H13? I'm looking at 1 1/2"