dkunkler

Awesome work, so realistic. I hope to see them up close some day. I'll email you for the step by step. Thanks John.

This thread has a lot of info on this. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16108-cylinder-to-tup-connection/page__p__163276__hl__+hammer%20+bushing__fromsearch__1#entry163276

I really think you need the bronze. There is a lot of force being exerted and you need something that can handle it.

Not quite as quick to change out as dropping a jig onto a flat die, but having it saddled in a die it should take a lot more abuse and last much longer. Great idea, I'll have to try it.

Around 10-12 ft/min. or 20 RPM seems to work good.

According to McDonald mild steel should be fine, although I used some higher carbon shafting I already had. I wouldn't go smaller than 2" on the rollers. The smaller diameter would give you a steeper climb angle and not have enough "bite" to pull the stock through unless you reduced the stock in very small increments with each pass. I used bronze bushings inside the lower roller. I don't think pillow blocks would work well on the lower roller because of clearance problems. I really recommend getting the Hugh McDonald plans and stick close to the basic mechanics of it, although I think you can be flexible in the roller drive speed reduction.

Plenty available on ebay. This will give you an idea of the size and price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tagua-Nut-Carving-Dried-Uncut-4-Nuts-/160646406250?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256745a06a

It looks like they are allowed to pivot somewhat and the stops prevent the v-blocks from flopping over when positioning stock.

I've been kicking around the idea of a parallelogram setup like this for the flypress, but never got around to working out the details. It looks like a real handy tool. I can see where your adding 2 middle disks could help in positioning for marking near the end of stock. I dig your jig.

I'm glad to see you made it home safely Thomas. It was good to meet you in person for the first time. I also had a great time, met a lot of great people, and hauled home some goodies. It seems like time just flew by, and before you know it, it was sunday afternoon.

http://sofablacksmiths.org/conference2011/2011index.htm

With little tiny electron teeth. :P

You could try scraping followed by sanding. http://www.iforgeiro...__fromsearch__1 htttp://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/11551-ugly-but-functional-fuller-scraper-easy-to-make/page__hl__%2Bscraping+%2Bfuller__fromsearch__1

A hoop driver is what I've heard them called.

You could get a little behind in your work . :lol:

I think you've got it now Matt.

Kung fu. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iaamkUEF_A And a funny version. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWlJndr3BKE

Yes, lots of bargains to be found. If you have stuff you're not using, you can bring it to sell.

Nice bowl, I like it. What did you squish that with ?

If the application doesn't require the hole to be square all the way through, you could bore the middle portion to a larger inner diameter on a lathe. Squaring just the two ends would be much easier.

Drift square as others have said and true up the outside by turning the bulges off in a lathe. Rotary broaching looks cool but very expensive, also the broach depth would be a problem.

This subject has been discussed here before including using it hand powered like a flypress. Do a search in forums for "punch press". http://www.iforgeiro...h&fromMainBar=1

Click on Forums and go to the tailgating section.

You could try Bon Ami and rinse clean with hot water. Find it in the kitchen cleaning products isle.

But, but, this forge is "MUSEUM QUALITY", according to the ad. :D