dkunkler

What I have done is "coke" some coal in my stationary forge and save it for demos. After a forging session, while the fire is still hot, pile on fresh coal and let it smoulder with the blower off. After an hour or two, rake apart and let the fire die out. Before firing the forge the next time, pick out the chunks of coke and save for demos. If you can find it, you could buy coke ready made. There is a lot less smoke either way. I don't demo much so it easier to make it.

That would be the outside measurement, 4 and 5 inch sq. tube.

Harbor Freight should have link belt and be open on Sunday if you're really itchen to try it out. Harbor Freight Tools USA Inc 1770 Central Ave Ste 4, Albany, NY 12205 (518) 452-3875

Congratulations on your lathe. Here is a link to operating instructions and parts list. http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_2000_retired_files/ac6man.pdf

Welcome to IForgeIron!

Here is some previous discussion on this topic.

Here's a few ideas on broom heads. http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/jd_broom/top_index.htm

Imagine catching one of those counterweights in the noggin. Serious hardhat zone.

Cut through the part thats cuttable and break off the hard part.

It looks good, smooth speed control. I liked all of your videos. You might try bolting a few pounds counterweight opposite the crank pin to reduce the side to side wobble. Add a little at a time to find the sweet spot.

It looks like all of your math is right for your speed reduction.

That would be great. I keep missing it for one reason or another.

I think this is what Grant is talking about.

I may be building a new shop in a couple of years and I really like this floor system you devised. Could you please explain in more detail with sketches or pictures? Also is there anything you might do different or improve? Thanks.

Yeah, what Tim said. We would like to see it through. Thanks Grant.

No, let's call it Shirley.

If the rollers are set so they are not parallel, straight stock will curve towards the side with the larger gap. You can pre-curve the stock and roll with the curve towards the side with the smaller gap and straighten the stock.

It's an old saying, slicker than owl sh**. The grease is just added slickness.

Well, thats just slicker than greased owl poo.

7x36 round steel would be about 390 pounds. It would make good anvil for a treadle or tire hammer, just cost a little more thought. Good luck and welcome to iforgeiron.

I have a question to add to Ted's. How did you vent it to the outside?

Check this link.

Japan drier can be added to oil based finishes to speed drying time. Do a search for japan drier for more info. Although pure linseed oil is edible, most products labeled as "boiled linseed oil" are a combination of raw linseed oil, petroleum-based solvent and metallic dryers. The use of solvents and metallic dryers makes boiled linseed oil inedible. I use beeswax on items requiring a nontoxic finish.

You could use a product like this. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Brite-Copper-Patina-Solder/dp/B000N64PDE I've used copper patina for stained glass work.