Dodge

INHO, those things were dangerous when they were new, which is why they developed modern soldering torches. Polish it up and put it on a display shelf. It will do its best and safest work there. However, IF you decide to ignore warnings, at least take it completely apart and rebuild it first making sure all moving parts move freely (pump and shutoff valve) and all parts that shouldn't move (everything else that doesn't move i, e. threaded joints) doesn't. Replace the old leather plunger. One reason they are dangerous is they can leak at many places and as the fuel is under pressure, the last thing you want is a fine mist of gasoline near an open flame. That is how the work but the mist should only come out the nozzle. Not the pump or any threaded fitting. This is only a couple things that can go wrong, but when they do, its hard to reverse quickly. I wanted to post some example links but the ones I found had language not allowed here but just Google "gasoline torch dangers" My 2¢

Scott, I'm with John. I worked with and many times could see grain direction (especially fresh off the coil) in hot rolled steel daily in the 25 years I worked in the manufacturing biz. There may not be a critical difference of grain direction when using flat pieces but when we bent steel, especially cold, we absolutely had to know the grain direction. I agree that once finished either by grinding, painting, steel shot blasting, galvanizing etc, you can no longer see the grain direction but its there still until the steel is put through heat procedures sufficient enough to change them. Frank, I know what you mean about news paper. Makes tearing news article out of a page very frustrating :D Scott S.

Many people (including myself) are building forges with burners placed so as to promote a vortex. Both vertical as well as horizontal format.

Sounds like you have the basics but the fuel will cost a fortune. Check out some of the many links including what wpearson posted But for starters: "Dimentions 24"deep and 10"diameter plus 2-3" for the liner." So, a 24" x 14" - 16" diameter tube? 24" x 10" diameter chamber yields a 1884 cubic inch chamber. You will need approximately 6 burners. "This is for small projects, knives and such." You only need to heat 2" or 3" of anything at a time as this is about all you can forge in one heat. Especially blades. They cool off too fast. Think small such as half an old air tank or a small freon tank. You will only need one burner then. Giant forges such as you propose would only be needed if you are heat treating swords or auto axles Hope this helps Scott

I just happen to have a spare 5hp x 220v motor. Hmmmmmmm just need to find splitter. *rushes off the peruse craigslist :ph34r: *

ahhh! Gotcha! Thanks, Rich :)

Seems like you would have to forget to beat on it too. Why flux it if you aren't gonna hammer it? (shruggy icon here) ;)

I was thinking if I could find one with a shelled engine, replace the dead engine with electric motor. Just turns a pump....

Thanks for the info Frosty. The question I have is, how or when does flux become stuck to the billet? I have only done a couple billets, but both in both cases, by the time I was finished forging, all of the flux had fallen off either with the scale or by grinding in preparation for the next weld or shaping of the blade. Just wondering when I should be looking for this issue.... Thanks Scott

I found this in the scrap hopper where I used to operate a CNC flame shape cutter. It was from a base plate for a power transmission pole. Engineering was experimenting on new bolt holes and the cutting operation there of. One of perhaps 6 or 8 IIRC. The experiment must have flopped as we never cut another one but the slugs sure were. They disappeared from the scrap hopper so fast my head was still spinning when I took this one to my truck :D Been trying to figue out a project for it but currently, another shop ornament....

I have my grandfathers. Makes a nice shop ornament; which is all they (steel, brass or otherwise) should be used for. They were dangerous when new which is why we have the gas torches we use today. Can you say "Molotov Cocktail" ? :)

Kustomsteel, WOW! that is nice work!! Although I didn't do as much on the root system as I would like due to customer constraints (OK its my MIL's) this is was my first attempt at a tree. It replaces the original birdbath pedestal. I started with 3" pipe at the base, split and filled in with scrap. The upper limbs are 1" pipe. Small branches forged 1/2" hot rolled. Texturing is a combination of weld dragging on branches and concrete stuco on the trunk. Acrylic paint for coloring. It was a learning experience; next one will be all steel.

:) I thought of that as well but already had posted. Used it a lot in a drawing class years ago. Always made me think of the M.C. Escher print of the hand drawing a hand :D

Wow, Dillon. THat guy is a wizard! Thanks for sharing! I have often consulted drawing instructional books on the human form and even specifically, "hands" available in artist supply and hobby stores. The beginner books (and the advanced ones as well) have step by step images that helped me with position, angles and attitudes (my descriptions; I'm sure there are actual technical terms...) Hope this is helpful Invoice for 2¢ in the mail :) Scott PS Dillon: Just viewed your site. Very nice work!

Ooooooooooh. So, murder weapons, then! Why didn't ya say so :D

I would find it hard to believe many commands would allow purchase of personal non-issue weapons on the battlefield. I know it happens I.E. General Patton's pearl handled revolvers. Maybe regulations have laxed over the years, but even still, I believe there would have to be months of extensive testing ($$$$) before anything a Soldier, Marine or otherwise would depend his life on would be accepted. I don't think Karbar simply made a bunch of big combat knives during WWII and just send them to the pacific theater for the Marines to field test ;) Edit: I shoulda read all thoroughly; What Steve said

Lenox saw blades makes bi-metal blades http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Home.aspx

Darren, That thing is SICK!!! > > > > Send it to me and I believe I can make it well in 10 - 15 years. No charge! :ph34r:

I may have misinterpreted what you said in op, dragon ;) But, what Frosty said. Read, Read, Read :) I use his style of burner and they work great with even a bit more margin for error than some (At least in my experience) however I suggest that when you do choose a design, at first, choose a proven design, be it Frosty's or who ever, and build it EXACTLY like the plan. That way, it will either work from the get go and/or troubleshooting will be easier.

Guess not :(

Frosty, are the quick enough "out of the box" or is there a mod that has to be made to increase the speed?

Just curious: Why does it need to be specifically 16 pounds?

NOT optional. Fuel has to have air (because of the fire triangle) Whether it is naturally introduced, or forced by a fan, it has to get in there somehow.

I noticed this too. Have to wonder if the results would be different if it was simply "Homemade" There are many types of homemade hammers than tire hammers. My vote wouldn't have change anything as mine IS a tire hammer. Just sayin' :D

I have seen some really nice knives and some not so nice knives made from spikes. It is refreshing, however, to see nice things besides knives made from rr spikes. Very nice, in deed, Nick!!