Eddie Mullins

No technical input from me, just a bravo. I wish I had the know how to do the same. I use a toaster oven myself, aided only by an oven thermometer. This would be a huge improvement.

Thanks for sharing those pics Robert.

Definitely envious of the smithing resources in your part of the world. The last one I found for sale locally was $75, small 4 inch or so jaws and was in poor shape, rusted up in a pile of other over priced stuff outside.

I don't know that I can bring myself to saw off a leg on a good one, but if I can find a "damaged" one at a good deal, I'd love to have one mounted lower.

Nice design and execution. How are the assembled?

Nice job! and pics! Its these little tidbits if info, tips and techniques others use I really enjoy.

I don't think I have made the same knife twice, so there's a bit of tweaking I end up doing with each. In addition to what the others have said, I have also found that a leg vise with aluminum covered jaws can be a very helpful tool with the aid of a hammer or "swocker".

Nice, simple and functional design. Like I mentioned above, I am exploring options for drive wheels myself. You mind post or PM'ng me what you went with?

I wanted to see if any of you use the Rigid brand 10" sanding wheels made to be used on table saws, and if not maybe tip yo to them. I tried one several months back, and have been pretty pleased with it. I am planning to make a disk sander using them. If you search you can find a 5 pack for $26 shipped. 1 disc lasts me a long time and they are double sided with different grits. I think you should be able to remove the old paper and replace with new, but haven't tried yet. Just thought some of you might like to give them a whirl if your on a budget like me, or just appreciate a good value in a servicable tool.

Really enjoyed following this thread and the finished product. I like the proportion of that hammer, for me hammers with long heads are not as well balanced.

One of today's projects a wrapped and forge welded hatchet / hawk. Its mild steel with a 5160 bit for the cutting edge. It resembles a hawk but the handle is not removable, so not sure technically which it is. Either way I like it.

One of my favorites also. I have it and many others downloaded, but those too could be lost.

No real help to this discussion, but the smith that I got my intro with had a foot pedal operated vise of larger dimension that the one pic. It was quite handy for qick operations such as twisting. Also quite handy and straightening twists by applying slight pressure on the diamond, rotate and repeat. I'd love to add one to my kit one of these days.

I have no real need for an adze at the moment, but do like repurposing hammers. Nice job on the claw hammer transformation. Claw hammers seem to be more readily available but I never pick them up, I guess they may be worth a 2nd look.

Thanks for the link. Some good information there, some of it I have to admit I don't yet comprehend : ) .

Making good progress. I hope to finish mine soon since I finally picked up a stick welder. How did you do you hardy hole? I'm trying to decide just how I want to tackle mine and If I want to do more than one and pritchels.

I have searched and didn't really find much, but was wondering if any of you use rust converters to finish your pieces. From what I have read they seem to be a good durable finish which can be used as is, or some are ready to paint over, no priming needed.

I purposefully make sure I leave myself coke to start my next fire.

Not specifically smithing related, but I picked up this buzz box yesterday for $100. It looks to be in good shape and it already has an extra 50 ft of cord wired to the plug. I have been looking for one to build a striking anvil and some other projects that my little mig wasn't up to the challenge for. One step closer to a treadle and/or power hammer now : ) .

Treadle power has caught my attention as of late, but I am not so sure I am ready to pull the boots of and hold the tools with my feet LOL. He has definite talents though.

I wouldn't mind measuring mine for you at all, the trouble will be the remembering to do it : ) . You might want to shoot me a PM if haven't seen something from me in a few days.

The letter opener is a pretty cool idea. The carbon content , at least for US spikes, isn't high enough for a true knife, but I could see a useful like opening letters.

Ummm ... I use a 1x30 from Harbor Freight :ph34r: . Obvioulsy knives aren't my main focus. I have purchase a motor and bearings and plant to build a 2 x 72 at some point. Accumulating parts as I find them, and evaluating options for drive wheels.

I recently started making copper chased bracelets. The person that introduced me to them had just starting making them at the request of a customer who wanted one for arthritis, so no treatment was applied. I did likewise and did not treat mine. I've sold a few but have not gotten any feedback yet .... hopefully that's a good sign : ). I don't wear any jewelry so can't give a first hand report.

I commented on liking this technique in the other thread. i think the unequal slit is a good idea. I was thinking that perhaps you could even start the split below the end as well to leave even more material for the leaf. For squaring up splits, if I understand your question, what I do when making forks for campfire cooking,is to flatten and taper the stock to draw it out and thin it down before making the split. I think you could do something similar with your application.