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I Forge Iron

Eddie Mullins

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Everything posted by Eddie Mullins

  1. Definitely and interesting inside look at their process.
  2. Nice first attempt. Casting isn't something I have given much thought to previously, other than lead. I have an old lead hammer that I know I'll need to melt down and remake at some point, wasn't sure how I was going to do it, I don't know that foam will work for it due to the low temps. Edit... well not sure if I should thank you or not, but now you have my mind spinning about casting LOL... I did find a pretty good tutorial, foam seems to work even with aluminum. http://www.buildyouridea.com/foundry/lost_foam_howto/lost_foam_howto.html This guy uses a coating of thin drywall mix for a smooth finish and a simple head pressure tool to help eliminate voids. I guess I have something else to try now.
  3. That's a new version for me. I like it. I have made a few but I leave the head as the base so that it is free standing. Ask Google nicely and its not too hard to find the How To information : ) .
  4. That mounting plate does just take that one over the top. Very cool.
  5. I am right handed and started out with the horn to the left as some of the old texts indicated was proper, but after a visit with Brian Brazeal switched to the right.
  6. They look great. What type of finish is on them?
  7. Nice opener, and thanks for this tidbit. Another little piece of info to store away.
  8. My side draft is posted here somewhere. Made of sheet metal scrap I welded, It happen to conviently have short 90 degree bends along one edge. Had it not or I had no welder, I would have used thin angle iron and screws for the corner assmeblies just as DSW suggested. An angle grinder and drill seem the easiest and cheapest means to me. The angle grinder is a must have tool IMO anyway, and this would be a great reason to get one if you don't already have one. My chimney is simply a rolled piece of tin.
  9. Love the burl, I am on the fence about the color also, but the knife's fit and finish, and overall design are great.
  10. Thanks for the info Frosty!
  11. I think the trees look great, really like the ccross too! Good luck with your new ventures.
  12. It some point I plan to build a flatter, and my intention is to weld a larger face onto smaller stock. I have some 5160 (read as leaf spring) I think will do a nice job for the face. I am admittedly still pretty new to smithing, but what do you mean a swinging flatter? You do not intend to use it as a top tool, but rather as a hammer?
  13. DSW - Glad you started this over here, I thought I recognozed your username on the thread I started about propnae outfits.
  14. I like the look of the knife and sheath, the copper adds a nice touch.
  15. I don't see a pic in your post, but I assume you are talking about the chimney? If so, like the rest said, no plastic, but what I used, as have others, is tin roofing. You can get used free or cheap if you can find it, or 1 new sheet isn't too pricey. Roll it up and screw/rivet into a tube. Yes galvanized tin can give off fumes if hot enough, but I have not found the tin to have even gotten warm to the touch. My box through the wall however does however get quite warm for the portion adjacent to the fire.
  16. This should be a sticky. BTW - I like a dark rue and if shrimp is off the menu, chicken and sausage ain't too shabby. I'm a country boy, so its squirrel and sausage here on occasion.
  17. I have used a single loop of chain and lag bolts, 1 on each side, for about a yr now. Works great for me. BTW - you can also try a magnet under the heel and/or a clip in the pritchel to help with the ringing. I find the clips in the pritchel to get in the way though.
  18. They could also easily be notched and shaped for holding ball pein hammers. No pic handy, but the notch fits and hold the fullered area between the pein and hammer eye. I like to reshape ball peins so find these useful.
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