arftist

Braze like you are bronze welding. Mapp alone will not do. You also need oxygen. You need welding heat to bronze weld, soldering can be done with just mapp. Thus returns the battle...

Is this gate close to a cedar roof or shingles/shakes or trees? What was the original finish? Sand blasted, brush finish, mirror polished, electro-polished? Of all of them, only mirror polishing can be counted on to not rust on 316 in a marine environment. No, powder coat will not cure this, not even close. Have you tried a two part clear from sculpt nouveau? Do what Biggun Dr. said

Cold rolled, which is actually cold finished can be welded to hot rolled with no problem whatsoever. Cold rolled is more resistant to bending but more importantly it is sized very accurately. If it is sold as 5/8 it will measure exactly .625 which is pronounced 625 thousandths. It is because of this accuracy that the cold rolled piece will work better (fit better.) It isn't just about finish, it is about fit and finish.

Actually 316 is perfectly suited to salt water corrosion resistance. Trouble arises at increased temperatures. What you need then is ti stabilized 321.

If only you could find a Blacksmith with a power hammer to help you. If I did it though ( I have hammered many sheets at a place I was a journeyman) I would only hammer strips the size I actually need for the job. It is a lot of hard physical work to waste. Requires multiple flattening and hammering. Totally doable though.

Spatula, spoon, etc. left in a pot used for cooking tomatos. Same in a brine for smoking meat, fish etc, Since I do work for commercial fishing businesses it is simpler to just use 316 L for everything except structural elements. Your milage may vary.

I guess my customers get a better deal than yours. Just because a steel alloy is marketed as being “food grade” doesn’t mean it’s the right material for your production process. There are a number of different stainless steel alloys on the market, each with its own strengths and weaknesses when it comes to resisting specific chemicals and production environments. For example, salt is known for being exceptionally corrosive to metal compounds. While grade 304 stainless steel is resistant to most corrosives, prolonged exposure to salt can still eat away at it. So, grade 304 stainless wouldn’t be suitable for any process requiring repeated, prolonged exposure to salt or saltwater. Grade 316 stainless, on the other hand, is much more resistant to salt exposure than grade 304. This makes grade 316 stainless steel preferable for food makers that use salt or saltwater in their products. https://www.marlinwire.com/blog/food-grade-stainless-steel-facts

D-2 would work good and isn't too expensive on rolls. If you are worried about it butter it 308-16 first. Preheat and post heat in addition to an equal application of wire will help fight distortion. Forget hard facing, too risky. Grinding nightmare as well. With the D- 2 hardening is easy.

I see now how unclear my answer was. What I meant was that you I think your anvil itself weighs two or three times more than 1200 pounds.

figure at least double if not triple your estimated anvil weight.

Interesting visuals.

No point in riveting, just weld the blade to the handle using stick electrodes, unless you have a TIG. SS stick welding is easy and works very well. FYI 304 isn't food grade so make the blade out of 316.

flood coolant when holesawing stainless,. up to 6" holes in 1/4" no problem. RPM must be very slow. Good use for camel back drill press in backgear. I have cut a 2" hole in a 6 sched 40 ss pipe 90 with a 1/2" hand drill motor. That was a complex curve and required an assistant to spray the coolant. I did recently cut a 2 3/8" hole in 3/6" CorTen with a drill motor. One hole, 3 pilots bits and two hours of drilling. I used high sulfur content pipe threading oil for that one and had to apply it myself. CorTen is much harder to cut than 18-8 stainless.

I met you once, and I don't recall you seeming feeble or infirm....yes it is a slight pia but not that bad. If you really need to make it better I advise using a pulley, cable and counterwieght. Keep it self contained in case you need to move the press.

1, It is a knee mill, no question. 2. It has a vertical milling adapter. 3. Most mills have some wear on the feed screws, this doesn't however affect one's ability to do accurate work, you must merely be aware of the backlash and use the gib tighteners appropriately. 4. No idea of the brand, best guess is a Van Norman but there were many other horizontal mills, 5. A 3 phase motor can be replaced with a single phase motor. 5. My concerns are; A. The spindle bearings. If they are worn walk away. B. The collets.(tool holders) some are very rare, hard to find or expensive. There were many different styles. If it comes with a complete set or if they are common such as R-8s for example then fine. Otherwise it may be mostly useless. If it runs ok that is a pretty fair price.

The double acting screw is very cool.

Bronze works good.

Natural selection.

What material?

A flat belt drive pulley just needs to be crowned a little, pretty easy to make in a lathe. Multi ply conveyor belting or power transmission belting works much better than leather. In my drive design the drive pulley is smaller and directly under the crank pulley. The belt hangs idle under the drive pulley until the clutch is engaged.

So you are saying it isn't a loom tool? My input is from a character actor at the Hoxie House of Sandwich Mass.

The mills on Cape Cod date back several hundred years but I can only report what modern day interpreters say. Another oldie; The weasel referred to in pop goes the weasel involves father going on a drunk and pawing mother's weasel, a loom tool.

You are jammed up for shore.

Supposedly the mettle (sic) was metal splinters in the hands of the fellows who had to dress the grain grinding stones with cold chisels. I guess they didn't know about preventing mushroomed chisels.

In my opinion tube steel is not appropriate for the task. 1x2 solid would look nice.