eseemann

Good Morning all, I got a bag of blacksmithing coal a few weeks ago and tried it out last night. The good is my forge is out side and not under an overhang. The bad is it is low to the ground, about 2' high. I tried to stay out of the way of all the yellow smoke from the sulfur and green coal but I guess I did not do a good enough job. This morning I feel a shortness of breath but no burning or dryness I have read about. So do I need to go to the doctor where I will, no doubt get a chest x-ray, since they got to pay for the device some how, or should I see how I feel tomorrow?

The reflex to catch something that is falling is what hurts the most. I have a rule, if I working and it is falling let it fall! And if you use Borax flux make sure you are covered where it might splatter on you. The burn lasts for weeks.

I will do so and update. Both faces/peins are flat and show that they have been used to beat something. I got this on the way out the door, I will take some more when I get home.

I think I might just do that. I just put a rough handle on a carving knife with about a 1" blade. That is from what I think is 1045 and I did the quench in cool water and it seems to be working for light carving.

Good Morning all, Wonder if anyone has seen this type of hammer and what is it called/used for? Thanks

Worth a try! In Los Angeles the city melted down guns that were taken and no longer evidence as well as tunred in on a buy back and made them in to rebar for the Staples Center.

Here is a rebar knife (letter opener) that I started in charcoal and then worked in a gas forge. Nothing fancy but this is my first knife. Knowing that rebar does not have enough carbon to really get that hard is there any point in trying to heat treat it at all? thanks

What kind of steel is that? I agree that it is a good looking knife.

I think Grimme, like myself, is working on the basis of limited funds.

Now I am not saying this just because you have the hawk but that is one bute of a tool!

AK, First off thank you for your service. Both my sister in law and he Ex were in Kuwait and locations around the Middle East and they did not like it so much. This site http://threeplanes.net/toolsteel.html talks about Tool Steel and has a chart to show Tool Steel Color vs Temperature. The Metallurgy Of Carbon Steel http://www.gowelding.com/met/carbon.htm This one has a bit on 1095 http://ajh-knives.com/metals.html 1095 Hi Carbon Steel Make springs, blades, small parts. you will find many uses around the shop for this excellent quality high carbon steel. Bright finish, annealed. The 10-series -- 1095 (and 1084, 1070, 1060, 1050, etc.) Many of the 10-series steels for cutlery, though 1095 is the most popular for knives. When you go in order from 1095-1050, you generally go from more carbon to less, from better edge holding to less edge holding, and tough to tougher to toughest. As such, you'll see 1060 and 1050, used often for swords. For knives, 1095 is sort of the "standard" carbon steel, not too expensive and performs well. It is reasonably tough and holds an edge very well. It rusts easily. This is a simple steel, which contains only two alloying elements: 0.95% Carbon and 0.4% Manganese. The various Kay-Bar blades are usually 1095 with a black coating. Hardening Bring to 1425- 1450 degrees Fahrenheit, than quench immediately, holding at a non-crucial point such as the back of the blade or handle area. Tempering Temper between 400 - 600 degrees Fahrenheit, depending upon the desired hardness. Flat bar 1/8" x 1-1/2" x 9" and 12" and 18" 3/16" x 1-1/2" and 2" x 9" and 12" and 18" 1/4" x 2" x 18" - 1075

I agree with Sling, lot easier to start thick and sand then to start thin and glue.

I would be shocked if 1% of the tin from the bronze age was as fine as the Goodwill mug-aqured pewter/tin. Thing to keep in mind is the Bronze age smith was going by sight sound and feel. They would be able to tell if something had some lead, antimony, bismuth or copper but only if there was enough to mess up the batch.

Not that I have found to date. Go to junk stores and flea markets. Looks for pewter cups. That is a cheapish way to go. At $9.00 a pound for tin the scrap yards do just that, they scrap it. Sort of like copper. Years ago you could fine copper in a scrap yard that was too much work to scrap. Now it is worth too much to leave in the yard. At $20.00 a pound for food grade tin is about the best I have seen so far. http://www.rotometals.com/Tin-Ingot-s/27.htm

If you have SS in the billet, would you rix lines of rust and lines of stainless? I know if you take care of a carbon steel knife it never need rust but just a thought.

What did you use to attach the antler? Looks good.

I have made a letter opener knife, a few spoons and a tool. the opener was rebar, the spoons mild steel and the tool 5160. They are right that 5160 is a LOT harder to work. I say go for it. I would suggest starting with a nice big knife.

In addition to some kind of handle that knife needs an action hero with a thick Austrian accident to use it in a movie. That is one hoss of a blade. Good camp knife. I would say wood handle or paracord if you know how. What did the blade come from?

I am in Huntsville Al and I have not had the time to make friends with shops where I can get drops but I am working on it. I am working a 5160 drop of stright rod stock and I know what people say when they say working mild steel is nothing like working good steel. Ernest.

I have expect the next photo to be of the wheel barrow failing under the weight. How many people did it take to move that thing! Great find, what did it cost?

That is very cool, "I need a tool, so I make one". Keep up the good work.