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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by eseemann

  1. Mr. Thomas, That is sort of like in the early days of AOL and such when it was popular to tell someone to use the secret key combo Alt F4 to get something. They would use it and close AOL.
  2. You ask a very valid question that I can only answer with a slack jawed look. I got no idea but I do know (look at me thinking I know something, I should say I kinda think) that any addition or subtraction of something from another thing will change the properties of the combined whole. Sort of like what I learned from from the periodic videos channel on Youtube. If you try and mold plutonium in a press the plutonium flakes off. But if you alloy plutonium with 2% (or so) of gallium you don't have that problem. 2%, that is almost nothing except if you think about what 1.8% carbon vs 2.8 carbon does to iron, one makes a blade and the other makes a frying pan.
  3. My problem is I know Kast-o-lite had an r-value but I had no idea how much. I got what is in reality "Brand X" Cast Master Propane Furnace that has about an inch of bare Kaowool on it. As people have said in other posts talking about this type of Propane Furnace there is very little air space between the crucible and Kaowool. That suggested to me I was not going to be able to add Kast-o-lite or Mizzou (what I have on hand) on top of the wool. That makes me need to know what an inch of Kast-o-lite will get me vs the wool. Given every photo or video showing this thing post first use looks like the wool wilted (for lack of a better term) at least 1/4". That was the reason I when head first down this rabbit hole.
  4. Good Morning All, I hope all is safe and healthy for you and yours. Frosty made a comment in a post about Castable Refractory that sent me down this rabbit hole. Here are some notes and links that you folks might like. Mizzou has been in use in propane forges since I don't know when and lives up to it's rep and then some. It just has about the same insulating properties as the same thickness of limestone. One foot thickness = R1. Th The R-Value is an imperial system unit of measurement (ft^2·°F·h/BTU) Mizzou Castable Refractory 7.4 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 at 2000 at degrees Limestone 8.74 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 Kast-O-lite 26 LI Insulating Castable Refractory: 4.0 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 at 2000 degrees Kast-O-lite 30 LI Insulating Castable Refractory:4.54 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 at 2000 degrees IFB 23 2 Btu-in/ft², hr, °F at 2000 degrees Kaowool 2.98 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F at 1800 degrees https://thermtest.com/materials-database http://www.matweb.com/Search/MaterialGroupSearch.aspx?GroupID=11 http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=cb830e74bc69422aa560a7b57494955a https://converter.eu/thermal_conductivity/#1.26_Watt/Meter-K_in_BTU/Hour-Foot-°F https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductance-conversion-d_1334.html https://www.bnzmaterials.com/miscellaneous-materials/castables/ https://www.bnzmaterials.com/insulating-firebrick/ifb-3200/ https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/stoneprofessionals/technical-bulletins/rvalue/ k-Value (Thermal Conductivity) (W/mK) R-Value Equivalent (R)3 (Hr • ft2 • ºF / Btu)
  5. Well Frosty's comment sent me on a hunt that lead me to this site https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/stoneprofessionals/technical-bulletins/rvalue/ for the R-value of Limestone. I am going to make a post in resources with more information but here is something I found out. Please note that this is comparing Apples to IPhones in a way because the numbers I have for Mizzou are at 2000 degrees and I don't have that level of info on Limestone. The R-Value is an imperial system unit of measurement (ft^2·°F·h/BTU) Mizzou Castable Refractory 7.4 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 at 2000 at degrees Limestone 8.74 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 Kast-O-lite 26 LI Insulating Castable Refractory: 4.0 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 at 2000 degrees Kast-O-lite 30 LI Insulating Castable Refractory:4.54 btu-in/hr-F-ft^2 at 2000 degrees IFB 23 2 Btu-in/ft², hr, °F at 2000 degrees Kaowool 2.98 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F at 1800 degrees
  6. Frosty, it all makes sense when you remember that computer hate us (people) that is the only answer.
  7. I work as a DoD Contractor in cybersecurity everyone + dog is always trying to show just how smart and indispensable they are. I love when someone can simply say "something to make it blue" without feeling the need to go in to detail.
  8. eseemann

    Forges 101

    D, I have not been able to find Borax at Walmart of Kroger in Huntsville Al. I don't figure there is a big pandemic panic buying or Borax so I wonder if they pulled it from the store.
  9. I wish the rest of my world was as straightforward as Frosty.
  10. I had one of the electric units from Cast Masters and something was not right in the thermostat since it is rated to 2000 and went over 2400. I contacted them via Amazon and they are sending me the stainless steel version of what you have. Did you coat the Kaowool with anything? I am looking at all that uncoated wool and it makes me nervous. John, I guess I need to take the same advice since I want to coat the Kaowool in the foundry they are sending me but all I have to work with on hand is kast-o-lite 26 li plus or Mizzou Castable Plus. Looking at how snug the crucible is stilling I am betting I don't have space for even a 1/2 inch coating. How much room would you say you need for air and gas movement around the crucible.
  11. I would look for a RR tie plate at the scrap yards. Another option would be looking for a scraper blade like one in this photo. I found it at my local (almost) scrap yard in Park City TN. From what I have read it is AS500 steel and hard as the dickens to cut. Once I managed to get it cut I welded it on to some I-beam sections as striker anvils. The MAJOR down side is I can't see AS500 wanting to weld to other types of steel w/o a fight. That is the good part about the RR tie plate, that should be easier to weld. I agree that is something worth looking in to. If nothing else that would be a great work surface.
  12. Mr. Thomas, I am doing what "read this first" tells you to do, look at the older posts. This is just the information I needed. I have some old (very well used) steel from a field cultivator that I was thinking about using and wondering if forge welds would help and metal fatigue. Thanks for the info.
  13. Are you using the 2 Burner Knifemaker/Welding Forge? The website says it uses Ceramic Hardboard, does that mean it has the stuff to keep loose fibers from messing up all the hard work stopping smoking? The reason I ask is I have never understood the deltas between ceramic hardboard or ceramic wool.
  14. This is not about a propane tank on a forge but on a gas grill. I was all hot to trot to do me some grilling Friday night! My most wonderful Bride of 22 years had outpatient surgery on Valentines day and I wanted to make it better with a nice meal. So I came back from the store with shrimp, salmon, mushrooms and little sweet peppers to put on the grill. I had not stopped to think about the fact that is was 23 degrees the night before, the dog water was still frozen and the grill tank had no sun on it do to being under the grill cover. Needless to say there was no grilling in the Seemann House that night. Yup, it was a rookie IFI miscalculation. Yesterday I left the tank in the sun until 2 pm and we had a mixed grill dinner that could not be beat. My wife is doing well but I hate that it had to happen on Valentines day. Take care all.,
  15. I thought that would be a neat side note. Looking forward to seeing it work.
  16. That build is looking great. This is very random but you mentioned the woodpecker motif back on 7 Oct and that got me thinking back to a small hammer bench top hammer I saw on Youtube. This thing was like a sewing machine with a 10# or 15# needle. I had just competed some of the Allan Quatermain books and one of the main characters was a Umslopogaas, a Zulu Chief who for no fault of his own needed to take his act on the road. Umslopogaas used his axe, Inkosi-kaas, to peck at his enemy like the Picador with his lance or the Banderilleros with their darts during a bullfight. This style of getting stuck over and over. That how Umslopogaas got his name of 'Woodpecker' that according to the author translates to "woodpecker" in Zulu.
  17. The guy I got it from did say he milled the top flat. I think the ladder pattern is due to the mill he used. The top is very flat and smooth. I would not be at all surprised to find out the top looked like Harag the Horrible's sword in some places. It is a new to me that is heavy and has a much better rebound than my home built job. It was a tool, the smiths at that time were not worried about the resale price in the 21st century.
  18. Good Morning All, I was on vacation and I found a long time machinist with a very nice anvil for only $300.00 so I took him up on his offer. The nice part about getting the anvil from this guy was he had a racquetball sized ball bearing to test the rebound (around 10 inches out of 12 inches) and he refaced the top so it is as smooth as glass. I have seen a great number of anvils that have dents in the slid like this one has and I wonder why people seem to beat on the non-working part of the anvil.
  19. This item is about 3 inches but I have been able to weld up something that may work even better. I will up load a photo when I get done. Thanks for everyone's input.
  20. Daswulf, I don't think that is what it is you have given me another idea what I might use. The attached image is an example of what one guy made with aluminum flat stock. If I can't find anything I will use the one item I have as a template and hope for the best but as you folks know hope is not a plan. thanks
  21. Farmall and Mr. Steve, I am running these leads down now. I found out the trade name EFCOR is short for ELECTRICAL FITTINGS CORPORATION. I love old companies that have names that mean something. Makes it easier to run down leads.
  22. That is a very good question I did not think of but I don't think so. It sticks to a magnet like glue and I tried to scratch the surface with a snap knife. I am just about sure it is steel. Now that I think about it I have cut these in the past and I do think they are steel.
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