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Found 6 results

  1. so in socials i just dealt with the Alamo and James bowie so decided the project would be a bowie knife here is the draft of the knife will make with a piece of 3/8 leaf spring post more when have some done
  2. So basically, I am just beginning blacksmithing and I am making a makeshift anvil. I really don't have enough money to buy a real anvil but I'm trying to make one. I have a big truck spring steel leaf (I don't really know what a thing of spring steel is called. What I'm saying is I have a big thing of thick spring steel). I am going to use it to make the top of a striking anvil, but the steel is a bit small on the width. I want it to have more surface area so I can have a more enjoyable time forging. What I want to do is have a shop weld two plates for me (I don't have a welder) so I can use it. Before I just take it to them, I want to know if spring steel will actually weld to each other. Will the welds stay? I would also like to weld a mild steel elbow onto the steel so I can pin it to a log. Will the mild steel actually weld to it? Thanks! - Brewny BTW - The spring steel is SUPER hard. I tried one normalizing cycle on a plate of it and I still could barely make a dent with my HSS drill bits. Should I use carbide drill bits for spring steel? Also, am I in the right topic? I don't want to get in trouble for being in the wrong one.
  3. Hello! I made this knife from a truck spring, about 1 cm thick! Sharp razor! Homemade micarta handle, screws adapted to make it removable, colored blade with gunkote! Leather sheath! Hope you like it!
  4. Using my coal forge, I wanted to weld an eye from a spring steel clip used on railroads. I brought the material to a good orange heat, beat out one end, scarfed that end, and then bent it back to form a loop. I then fluxed it with straight borax, buried it in the coal fire, and brought it up to a yellow-white heat. When I took it to the anvil, one tap sent the entire unwelded eye to the floor. It literally fell apart from a tap. The steel showed some cracking, which was not there when I shaped it. I tried another piece of spring steel, this from an automobile leaf spring. I drew out the end, scarfed it, folded it around in a loop, and then fluxed with straight borax. I buried it in the fire and brought it up to a yellow white heat. It looked like a good temp to weld. I took it to the anvil as quickly as I could. Before I even tapped it with my hammer, it fell into two pieces. It just disintegrated. Does anyone have any idea what I did wrong? Too much heat? Borax eating steel? Bad ju-ju?
  5. I've been reading up on patina for 5160, and I've seen several things suggested. I'm chopping up a partially finished 5160 greatsword to make a few hunting knives. I'm looking for a deep gray, almost black, that will stand up well to use for things like cutting brush, and even light chopping on a HT blade. Most often I've seen vinegar soak, PCB etchant, and gun bluing suggested for dark patinas. I've also found that gun blue won't work on some tougher steels and most stainless. Do you have any experience with a patina on 5160? What is your favorite? Why?
  6. Good Morning All, The local discount store has a set of 2 large springs, look like truck springs or lift kit springs, for about $30.00. The steel is at least 1/2' maybe more thick, the coil is about 5" to 6" wide and about 2' long. I have read about why not to use old junk yard springs due to a life time of bouncing around but I wondered about new springs. Can one cut a bit off and re-forge the steel? I will update with a picture this afternoon,
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