eseemann

Just wanted to show off my first attempt to mount a blade in deer horn, thanks to DCraven for the help on the epoxy.

Frosty I do have one but that is a modified small two man that I (6'8" and lots of mass) can use to a point by my self. I have some rotary drum blades that I got for next to nothing from Tractor supply that are in the 1045 range. And I used one of the 2 man saws every day for 6 months in the mornings while I was in high school. Still remember the sound.

In the States you would call that a right nice Pig Sitcker! Mental note, stay off that guys lawn!

The one that may only be .2% is still REALLY HARD for what ever reason. I do not plan on that being more than for letter openers and camp knives.

From what the hand held metal analyzers (guns) for portable metal analysis (I like calling them zap guns lol) said it looks like the carbon comes from the steels they were alloyed with LA-1215 and Invar-36. The 1215 has .9% Carbon but the Invar 36 not so much, only about .2% carbon. Thing is these guns have a margin for error so this is a more of an estimate. The first blade has replaceable teeth and is about 3/16" thick. The second blade has the teeth cut in to the saw and was about 1/8" thick. On both I have tried and they passed the back yard carbon test. I bet they will pattern weld nice with some 1095 and make some neat patterns.

Good Morning all. I was luckly enough to have a person with the metal zip gun scann some steel for me. These are old 28" buzz saw blades. The samples are from the hub not the teeth. I can tell you for a fact that when I have hardened either of them they snap like glass. The first blade did not like a water quench anyone ever worked with steel like these? By the way I do plan on getting known steel for anything that matters but I think these will be great fun to work. First Blade LA-1215 2.8 Iron/CS 3.2 Fe 98.23 Mn .614 Cr .366 Second blade LA-1215 2.9 Invar-36 3.2 Ni 1.08 Fe 92.46 Mn .521 Cr .309

That is something to say the very least! Major pocket knife bling!

Dcraven, How did you mount the scale on the horn handle?

What are the knife's dimensions?

Nice knife, have a large saw blade that I am cutting up for parts and I think I need to look at making one of these.

ah, I can say that the rule "If Frosty says don't do it then don't" is a REAL good stick to measure by. Do what I am doing. Put the rail on a stump or some kind, my stump is a bunch of lumber, and try some work. Do not worry about getting the temper right and all that stuff just yet. Remember that the Icelandic Vikings used an "anvil stone" that is still around (in a had the stuff beaten out of it for the life time of the smith sort of way) but it is still there. www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/bog_iron.htm‎ One other thing, if you want to see a heat treatment of a post anvil take a look at this He has a different post anvil here that looks like it would work.

I do not think so. These are replaceable (were replaceable) teeth and they do not look like carbide tipped.

Thanks Herb, This stuff did not spark like high carbon steel but is is really tough stuff.

Before you grind, stock up on n95 masks and grinding wheels. The crud that comes off the track when you are cutting will have you sneezing black crud for a week. RR Track eats cut off disks and grinding disks like pop corn.

Well today was not at all a bad day. I went to the hardware store, Huntsville Al is blessed with 2 real hardware stores, and asked about getting some 1095. The guy said he did not have a way to order any so he sent me over to a steel fabricator. The guy in charge of sales said he only had A36 but asked how big I needed it. I told him as thin as 1/8 inch and he said to follow him. He shows me a rack of old saw blades and tells me that a guy used to get them for knife making. I took some home and cut a slice out with a 7" cut off blade for the circular saw and heated some up to non-magnetic. Did a water quench and put it in the vice. The small bit broke off like glass with almost no effort. The larger bit took some doing but broke. I tried one more time and put my 6' 8" 304 lbs in to it and it would not bend or break. It did flex. So any one know what I can search the google for to find more information about this type of blade? Thanks Ernest

Nice blade, I would say you should be happy about it. Good work.

I had a 3 foot track cut in two and I have not found the part near the cut to be softer than the other side.

Guys, Take a look at this post, '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> I have put up photos of my one brick Psychobilly forge. I have a 1/2 rod of 5160 in the photos that is glowing at or past non-magnetic.

J, The first one I built was welded, badly, and I used black pipe from Home Depot and a hair dryer for the blower. The next one was a one brick that I made from old cookie sheet and bent by hand in to place. I hold the forge together with a steel strap, nut and bolt. I use a Mag-Torch MT245C MAPP/Propane Heavy Duty Pencil Flame Burner Torch Tip and Mr. Heater 75,000 BTU 12-Foot Propane Hose Assembly from Amazon.com. Using the torch for the burner saves on propane and it will get hot enough to forge weld but the flux kills the brick. I have forged 5160 in this one brick rig.

I second that Neato!

I think they are neat looking and a good start.

This page has a discription of the type of very small and very old nail you are after. http://www.harpgallery.com/library/nails.htm I think the hobby shop is your best bet.

Blacksmiths are like anyone else, they love free labor if you can take orders. If you are willing to listen more than talk and help out you will go far. Remember that people respond very well to please and thank you.

Heather, Go to a hobby shop or some place that sells the makings for doll houses. That looks like a copper brad.