HWooldridge

Weld on a piece of mild steel for the handle and do most of the forging, then cut off the bar and the welded area. It will work just fine.

Congratulations! You'll have much fun... I'd say at least 3 feet deep of concrete - 5 might be better depending on your soil. Make it flush with the floor and a foot or so outside the footprint on all sides. Bring the hammer up to a comfortable working height with wooden beams as both cushion and spacer then add a 1" or so rubber mat under the wood to make up for any misalignment between wood and frame/anvil. Just my 2 pence...

Truly beautiful work, JPH. It's just the lure of exotic, far-away places that makes them think that the Japanese sword is better...LOL...actually, it did have three things going for it - design, construction and techniques of use. This is not to denigrate the European blades but they weren't still being used in WW2 so the "aura" is more recent. They also treated the sword in a religious manner so a multitude of signed blades exist from the 15th century and beyond. How many European swordsmiths are still recognized by name even among collectors? I'm sure some are known but their Japanese counterparts are treated as saints. I agree that the European blades were easily the equal of the Japanese - and the Persians - although methods of manufacture and fighting styles were so much different.

The local conservatory has one that's mushroomed over the face. It was used in a shop that was started in 1900 so may date to at least then - who knows? I'll try to get by there and take some pics. Jr., do you think yours is a wrought iron body with steel face?

The Internet (or any written form of communication) is quite imperfect, to say the least. Inflections and body language can't be read and not everyone is a Shakespeare with regard to commanding the mother tongue. Many times, slights or outright insults are deduced where none were intended. Abraham Lincoln was frequently depressed and often took it out on those around him. It occurred to him one day that he was in charge of his own emotions so he began making a conscious decision to be positive and friendly in his daily dealings with others. The rest, as they say, is history...

Rich's explanation of galling is not the least bit clumsy - in fact, it is dead on (I suspect he already knows that...LOL). In building molds, dies and other tools that are subjected to high pressure, load, high speeds, etc., or some combination thereof, it is common practice to use dissimiliar materials and hardnesses to prevent galling, which is just exactly what Rich described. It would be enough to put a piece of S7 against a piece of H13, with the former at 55 Rc and the latter around 48, to make a good combination of wear surfaces. My question is why do you want to know all this - is it really homework?

Glenn, I definitely believe the hammer should be somewhat softer than the anvil for the reasons you cited. My shop-built hammers are made from 1060 - only because I scrounged a good-sized, labelled drop some years ago at the scrap yard. I have experimented with several different styles and the one I now pick up almost always before the others is a square face, 2-1/2 lb, "French pattern". When making a hammer, I usually try to harden only the peen and face, while leaving the eye softer in the quench, then draw the whole thing to a purplish blue. This is harder than mild steel or even the 1060 as normalized but will dent slightly on the edge of the anvil if I miss with a hard blow. Over time, the edges will mushroom a bit so this hammer has been redressed twice in about 10 years. I also had the face spall a bit but it was a weird break, right in the center and almost like there was a small hidden pocket in the steel. It was only about 1/32" deep so I simply reground that spot. This break occurred in normal use, not because I was hitting chisels or missed the mark. In fact, I use a 4 lb, cast steel soft hammer for most of my set tools so the forging hammer is used only for that purpose.

Rick, It looks like dated material. I don't see any indication of updates since 2003 so might just be their calling card though I can't tell for sure.

Rich, The sledging on large anvils is a very good point as a full overhead swing that misses could be catastrophic. Another issue with regard to quenching is that faceplates did not seem to differ drastically in thicknesses. I have seen many smaller anvils in the 3/8" range but few big anvils with 3/4" or 1" plates. I haven't seen every anvil so maybe they exist but perhaps the shear steel was an expense to be kept to a minimum. After quenching, a thicker plate should result in a hard top surface with some amount of natural tempering farther down due to the thermal mass. This would resist hard strikes better than a somewhat brittle, thinner plate. However, the 'executive summary' of this thread is "don't miss"...LOL R, I edited in light of your well placed comment:-)

All posters have valid points and this would certainly be an interesting confab face-to-face. When I first obtained my 250 PW, I set it on a stump with no tie downs. Not only did it ring but I chased it around the stump. This was with a 3 lb hand hammer and no sledges. This movement was wasted energy - as H8 illustrates so clearly. The Japanese and certain other traditions put a block anvil in the ground and dig a hole to allow the smith to reach the correct height. Could this be the perfect method of securing the anvil? I can't say since I haven't used this way but using a good quality anvil on an angle iron frame, or a stump, or a concrete base, etc., all seem to be reasonable practices. I don't believe any are incorrect.

Some years ago, Anvil's Ring magazine had an article on an anvil shop still making them the old way with wrought body and welded face into the early 1970's. I seem to recall it was located in Germany but maybe not - perhaps someone has the issue and can fill in my lousy memory. At any rate, I remember they were located next to a river, which provided power for the power hammer, bellows, grinders, etc. This was still primarily a manual process, with lots of muscle and sweat expended to get the final product. Their quench method was to run a 10" pipe from the river with natural flow and a dump valve somewhere in the line. The anvil was finished to the point that it was ready to harden and scooted under the pipe, then everyone stood back to let the water and steam fly. One of the comments in the story mentioned that sometimes the face plates broke violently and flew off when there was a failure in the forge welds. Seems like the process has always been a bit unpredictable.

I didn't read the 'anvilfire' discussion but that sounds a wee bit far-fetched. I don't think large anvils were more likely to fail over the long run because they were not to the same quality as smaller ones. If that were true, everyone would want a small anvil and there would be no big ones in good shape. The bigger anvil manufacturers produced anvils just like any other company which is formed to make a product and a profit. Some of everyone's final product failed over time and much of it performed well. Smiths who used their anvils and cared for them as an important tool often passed them down to following generations while the reverse occurred in other shops. As mentioned earlier in this thread, Whitaker had a 150 lb anvil most of his working life, which suited his type of work - but I think his focus was to concentrate on the finished work and not collecting tools.

250 PWright for shop anvil and 100 lb Hay Budden for portable. Both are similarly tooled for various hardy tools and the bigger one has sleeves to allow using all the tools from the smaller anvil. I have owned several others including a 200 Fisher and a Mousehole that appeared to date from the late 1600's.

Ken, I made a pot very similar to yours that worked just fine. I sold it at some point but not because it didn't function. A good design for a homemade pot built from plate is to have a simple slot in the bottom piece - with no clinker breaker. The slot can be 1/2x3 or so, exact dimensions are not important but small enough that most of your coke won't fall through with the blast turned off. A good centrifugal blower will often blow the coke out of the pot but only if there is no extra fuel on top. Jr's pictures tell the story better than any words can...although I disagree with the original author's recommendation on a hollow fire - I don't think it's good for much of anything, much less forge welding.

I concur with both of the opinions above and would like to add some comments with regard to the potential for damage. The old wrought anvils did collapse from repetitive work, but that is no different from many more modern tools that are used and abused. When I decided to rebuild it, my old Peter Wright had collapsed at least a half inch from plow sharpening but the hard face was able to follow and did not fail drastically by coming off in large pieces - a testament to the original manufacturer. Of course, most of us have seen faces that were destroyed or failed. When they were in common use, anvils were produced as a business enterprise and were considered a commodity. As such, some makers produced marginal ones, even the name brand guys made mistakes occasionally. Add to this the fact that anvils were not treated with respect by the majority of users and you see why so many are in bad shape. Our local historical society has a 310 lb Hay Budden anvil that was in a shop since it was new. The shop was in a farming community and passed from father to son so was in continuous operation from 1900 to 1965. The only marks on the anvil are some gouges from a cutting torch on the horn but the face is still pristine. This despite the fact it very likely saw daily, heavy use for many years - in fact, the society has a picture from the 1920's with the anvil shown alongside one of the boys and a big pile of sweeps. There were three forging stations in this shop and this anvil occupied one of them so the work was much harder than the average hobby shop. Like Ed and Jr said, I believe damage primarily comes from abuse and ignorant use by novices, rather than honest hot work. With all this said, a larger anvil may make for a better surface due to the greater mass but that is a separate issue apart from the possibility of incurring damage.

Here are the specs for Wearform 400: C - .30 Mn - 1.15/1.60 Cr - .20 Mo - .10 B - .005 BHN 360-400 It is basically an abrasion resistant spring steel.

Probably either Kohlswa or Soderfors. A buddy of mine has a 150 lb Soderfors and it is an outstanding anvil.

Postman's book, "Anvils in America" may be your best bet.

I wrote the following in answer to a question in the "Den" some time ago. It describes lining a forge plus a bit on blowers and fuel. Perhaps it will be helpful here: Lining a Forge: I lined a Buffalo forge that has the lips an inch or so above the iron hearth and it turned out well. The process is based on something I learned years ago when I used to help my grandpa build houses. In addition to carpentry, he did some rock work and one thing we would do occasionally is reline fireplaces. On horizontal areas, he would make up a mix, apply it dry and level, then spray water on top. This would rock up in a day or so without cracking. The mix I used (based on his recipe) was 3 parts mortar, 3 parts clean sand, 1 part fireclay and 1 part dry lime. I mixed it, poured in the hearth to a depth that was flush to the top of the firepot and raked it smooth, then sprayed only enough water on it until the surface was wet. I let sit two days before making a fire and it had hardened nicely with no visible cracks anywhere. I think the minimal amount of water helps eliminate the cracking. Coal Forges: I have seen more badly constructed coal forges than good ones in my life. A lot of folks make their own (which is perfectly fine) without a basic knowledge of not only how but why it works. All solid fuels need some amount of air pressure to burn properly. You can have too much velocity with insufficient pressure or too much pressure without enough air movement. The two extremes can be illustrated by a couple of examples. A light wind blowing on a campfire will make it hotter but only the outside of the fuel pile burns because the breeze can't make it to the interior. Conversely, hooking an air compressor to a firepot will make a fire but any amount of pressure much over a few pounds will blow the fuel out of the pot. The reason why bellows and centrifugal fans work so well on a forge is that they generate the right combination of both air supply and pressure. Too big a blower (like a large, electric squirrel cage) will lead to excess fuel consumption, more clinker and an oxidizing fire. In addition, a squirrel cage can be "stalled" because they are designed to move large amounts of air - not push it thru a mass of burning fuel. Conversely, too little air will never allow the fire to reach its proper potential for heating. The proper size air inlet to the fire is also important. I'm sure a lot of folks have used grates drilled with a bunch of holes but 1-3 larger holes is better. One of the best homemade firepots I ever saw had a 1/2x3" slot cut in the bottom. The pot was entirely made from 1/2 inch steel plate and there was no clinker breaker. This arrangement made a nice hot fire with a center about the size of a grapefruit, which is about like a commercial pot. I recently exchanged notes with a professional British smith who uses a side blast. It is simply a piece of 1" heavy wall stainless tubing as a tuyere and aimed slightly downward into a molded mortar "duck's nest". The coal is piled up in the hearth and forms it's own bed in the depression. Other fire shapes can be made by employing fire bricks to redirect the blast. This simple arrangement works well and eliminates all the Rube Goldberg creations that get built in back yards. The smith said he can easily weld with this design and some of these forges have lasted over 5 years in daily use. I use a coal that generates a big clinker in a hurry but it was cheap, gets hot and cokes well so the only disadvantage is the dirt. Therefore, I have learned to build a fire and use it for half hour or so then let the clinker cool for a couple of minutes. At this point, there is enough to usually pick up in one piece while I try not to disturb the coke around the pot. I can usually clean the fire and get back to work without breaking the whole fire down. If I have one piece of advice about fire tending, it's that less is usually more. I have seen a lot of people that tear the whole fire down on every heat or spend the entire time digging up the coke ball. A fire has to form a natural bed to work properly and it takes a few minutes for this to occur. A good coal smith will replace the piece for the next heat and rake a little coke on top. As the fire burns hollow, the sides are pushed in a bit. This gentle management is done during every heat - you don't work for an hour and then tend the fire all at once. written by Hollis Wooldridge March 2005

Much obliged for your answers. I was hoping we had some chefs or restaurant owners here so I appreciate the brand names and will definitely try an Old Hickory since blade discoloration means nil to me. Chuck, I might try to make one at some point but in reality, I only need a 6" chefs knife - the rest of my collection is in fine shape. Rich, I have a couple of Wusthof paring knives that were given to me as gifts one Christmas. They are good blades and have seen much use but I don't think I'd spend the money on myself when it sounds like there are other fine choices. I raised four sons who are now grown and have girlfriends/future wives around so I often cook for the multitudes. It helps to have the right tools. Thanks again...H

Not specifically BS content but close... I don't consider myself a master chef but I do cook a lot for family and friends so use kitchen knives regularly. When my wife and I were newly married 25 years ago, I bought a set of JA Henckels, which have lasted quite well in most sizes. Unfortunately, between a couple of tip breaks and repeated sharpening, the 6 inch chef's knife is about gone (now measures just under 4") so I went shopping tonight and the same blade is now $80 at Linens and Things, which is the closest thing we have to a cutlery store. Chicago Cutlery is cheaper but I have owned a couple of them and was totally unimpressed so am not interested unless they have gotten MUCH better... My question is: What do any of you who are serious cooks (or married to one) use for kitchen knives? I'll spend the money on a Henckels but I know a lot of the cost is for the name so would try something else on a recommendation.

Francis Whitaker had a 150lb anvil for most of his professional life - 'nuff said... The usual advantage claimed for a big anvil is mass to rebound the hammer - but I would rather have a high-quality, name brand 100 lb anvil than a 400 lb lump of cast iron. The problem with railroad anvils is that some air usually exists under the hammer in either vertical or horiz orientations, so the blow is not rebounded as efficiently. Re the glass, I would do lots of useful stuff like drinking and eating utensils. You could also do some accents like lamp shades which could be added to iron items at a later date. Continue to learn quickly as it will be an advantage in later life...:-)

When I first bought it, my big Peter Wright was sway backed about 3/4" inch deep over 8-10 inches on one edge and the heel almost broken through at the hardy hole (all this was repaired). I have no pics of others but most of what I have seen consisted of sway backs, which is often just honest wear - and knuckleheads using a torch on them. The 400 lb Hay Budden I recovered for the local conservation society had been gouged with a torch and a chisel, all of which I welded up with the MIG and then reground. I have also seen faceplates busted off completely - two were Trentons that probably both had bad welds as they came away quite cleanly, leaving only small fragments of the face to show there was ever one at all. The typical damage a potential buyer usually sees is crumbled edges, which usually is a result of improper use.

Might be a harness riveter. They used to sell a two piece ring, may still at the "good" hardware stores, similar to the ones you see on tarps to run lines through. You put the pieces through the hole in the leather and crimped them together.

A lot of folks will counsel against goofy names but I like stuff like "Dead Possum Forge", "Soaked Shirt Forge", etc. I think it shows creativity but some customers may not take it seriously. Your call in the end...