HWooldridge

I have my grandpa's old "silver belly" Stetson from the 1930's, still in the original box but the brim has a few red spots that look like rust (I have no idea why). I also have my dad's black Stetson and a couple more that date from the 1960's. However, I usually wear straws all year long unless it's real cold and then I wear a thermal cap so the felts don't see much use. Guess I'll pass them on to one of the boys...

I don't completely understand your end requirement but here are some comments. Maybe a picture would assist us in providing suggestions. For flat leaf springs such as the type found in post vises, mild steel works pretty well as stock material. Forge to shape and quench in one of Robb Gunter's SuperQuench variations - either the salt version or the lye (but be careful with the latter one). No tempering required as plain old A36 will take around 1/4" to 3/8" set and then return to its memory position. This is a fairly reliable way to repair old vises or other tools that need flat springs because A36 is already around 30 points carbon and approaches the lower end of spring steel. Coil springs of the type found on cars/trucks can usually be quenched in oil and tempered to 500 degrees or so. In the absence of lab equipment, what has worked for me in the past is to get the steel to a consistent, non-magnetic austenitizing temp and quench in oil. Wipe the oil clean and immediately take the piece into the house and put it in the oven, which has been preheated to 500. Put the piece on a cookie pan and let it soak for at least an hour per inch of thickness. If it will be a highly stressed part, repeat the tempering process once more. Turn off the stove and let it cool naturally then remove the piece. The reason to temper the part immediately is that the stresses of the hardening process can sometimes cause surface cracks or outright breakage if the part is left overnight. Please feel free to ask more questions if these suggestions don't help...H

Motor oil often can have gasoline mixed in, which can be scary at best and deadly at worst. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works reasonably well as does most any vegetable oil. The used fryer oil route is a good one and environmentally friendly but I simply bought 10 gallons of Texaco Quench-Tex about 20 years ago and keep it in a galvanized milk can. Was about $3 a gallon then - don't know if the cost is higher now. With the milk can, moisture is kept out and the lid can be flipped back on in case of a fire. I'm quite sure this supply will last me the rest of my smithing career since very little is consumed or spilled during use.

Dirt is hard to beat for a forge floor but you won't like pea gravel because it's slippery and hard to walk on plus, as Strix said, it's difficult to find small parts once dropped. In my previous shop, I put 3 inches of crushed limestone over the native topsoil and it worked great, not too dusty and comfortable to walk on. I left the native clay in my current shop but it is extremely fine and turns to powder so every step "puffs". In the late afternoon sun, I can see a cloud of microscopic particles floating around and me sucking it in with every breath - so I take a water hose and periodically wet the entire floor. Dirt is a lot easier on your feet than concrete and that can make a difference at the end of a long day.

H13 is designed for hot work and very forgiving in heat treatment but it is tough to forge by hand and should be worked above a yellow temp. Forge to shape and let cool in the gas forge after it's turned off or bury in wood ashes. Afterwards, clean and grind to your satisfaction, then reheat to a bright orange and let sit in still air to cool. This will give a hardness in the high 40's to low 50's Rc. In use, it can be quenched in water from a dark red and not crack. This is why it is so popular for hot die work, casting molds, etc. S7 is also good. It seems to have more tendency to crack but will get harder than H13 - but that is not really something that is needed in forging tools except for durability in high production. S1 has a bit of tungsten to help with hot hardness but is sometimes hard to find. All of these are air hardening. M2 is typically used for cutters and the like so has some hot hardness qualities but is notch sensitive and will crack at the worst times. I would not use it for hot tools unless it was all I had and someone gave it to me. I have a very thin (in cross section) hot chisel from H13 that will slice right thru a piece of 3/4 or 1" bar in one heat without rolling the edge. I forged it about ten years ago and it looks about the same with hard use. I redressed the edge on the belt grinder a couple of times but this was primarily to sharpen. Like Hofi said, build it once from good material and use it for a lifetime...

In Japanese sword construction, the design of the hamon was an outgrowth of an attempt to create a very hard edge capable of severe use before resharpening and providing an edge that if chipped, would not propagate over a large area. In other words, swords hit each other and other hard stuff during combat. If the edge chipped for several inches, it more or less rendered the weapon useless. The wavy hamons were a method to limit the chip to the length of the "scallop". Over time, they also became a basic feature contributing to the beauty of Japanese blades. I have seen pictures of a few of the National Treasure blades, some of which have hamons that are works of art on their own merit.

Rust is iron oxide - same thing as scale. Properly applied flux and the right welding heat should float away most surface rust. The problem would be when you get into a piece that is heavily corroded and has major surface imperfections or loose chunks so the surface contact is haphazard. A similar situation happens when a smith welds a piece of cable damascus - the inside of the cable is often chock full of rust, oil and other debris but correct process will allow it to weld into a homogenous piece.

Jr. Was that a "Burma" jeep? That was the one made by Ford and was open topped - I think it was called a GTB. I have an M37 right now that's a good truck but the 2-1/2 ton is a real workhorse. I've missed a lot of deals, that's why I quit shopping... Seriously, the only thing I can recall with regret was a lathe we had at our old plant. The equipment went up for auction and I bought the TIG and a blast cabinet but just could not justify the lathe. It was a nice 16x60 Victor, fully outfitted with a variety of chucks, collets, radii turning tools, etc., - all purchased new and with little wear. I'll bet the company paid $20K for all of it and top bid was only around $5K.

Mark, None taken - using the abused one is less work and I would seldom recommend a full reface unless someone really knows what they are doing due to the potential for failure. Quite often, welding with build-up rods is better, although I don't care for that method in most cases. However, "klilckitat" asked about refacing so I answered. Another option if someone has a few friends to help and a BIG forge would be to redress the face without any buildup. Heat it to yellow, redress with sledges and a big flatter, drift hardy and pritchel with pre-made punches, then reharden the face in the same heat. Again, not for everyone but entirely feasible. A 55# anvil is not so big that a redress could not be done in a single day. I think Bruce W has done this - maybe he'll chime in.

It can be done but is a bit of work - I think I wrote a note here a while back on how I refaced a couple of anvils. The AR500 will probably work but you may draw some of the hardness when you weld it. It would be advisable to weld and let the plate cool so the whole thing stays below 300-400 degrees. I welded mine from the center out to the edge so I set the plate on 3/8 round rod that went around the hardy and pritchel and down the middle of the face. The material around the holes prevents weld metal from enterign and causing interference later. This also allows getting an electrode into the root and welding more or less homogenously all the way across so there are no dead spots. We use AR500 for armor on architectural elements such as doors and window frames - it is tough stuff and pretty hard, I think around 50 Rc.

What defines a seax? How are the characteristics different from a skean dhu or something else? I assume it's British Isles or Northern Europe from the name.

I am now on rural property but was in the city for ten years in an old residential area that was originally developed in the 1940's. Lots were large (1 to 6 acres) but houses were small. My shop was behind our house and surrounded by trees. Behind us to the north was a church, to the west was my grandparents house, a neighbor to the east and the road was on the south side. I used to run the 100 lb hammer quite often and people's windows would rattle but no one ever called the law - they'd just comment to me on occasion that there was this strange thumping noise every once in a while...everyone simply thought I was a weldor since they frequently would see an arc in the evening. Cities can be pretty noisy so you are often more camouflaged than you might think. I also have to say that my neighbors in the country hear more noise than at my old shop because there is so little background sound. Fortunately, we are in an unzoned area - my biggest worry is just being courteous and not running anything past 10 pm. One neighbor lives 1/2 mile away but he can always hear the power hammer going. Fortunately, he thinks it's cool and I do the occasional welding job for him so no problems to date.

H13 is designed for hot work and excels at that application. S7 and S1 are also good if you can obtain them. Can sometimes be picked up from plastic injection molders, die casting shops or mold/die repair places since they typically use these steels in their process.

A related note while we are on slack tubs. My first tub was a half whisky barrel like the ones sold at the nurseries. After regular use over about six months of water standing in that keg, I developed a nasty skin fungus on my hands (I washed in it regularly). I went to the doc and he said there are all sorts of critters that can live in wood barrels so I should switch to a different container. We had an old galvanized bath tub that looked right for the job and it has held water for the last 20 or so years with only one patch job. I also never had the skin fungus return. This wouldn't have been a problem if I had only washed with fresh water but that tub is always convenient.

From what I can determine, flux prevents/minimizes the normal formation of oxides (scale) that develop in the high heat of the forge and helps float away impurities that may be present. The intent of a forge weld is to put two clean pieces of iron or steel together under heat and pressure to form the bond - but interference from contamination can prevent that from occurring. Good wrought iron can often be welded without flux because the scale is molten enough to push aside. This is harder to do with steel because the proper welding temp is lower and the scale clings to the surfaces to be welded. The Japanese were doing some R&D a few years ago with "forge welding" at room temps with chemically clean samples in an oxygen-free environment, using large hydraulic presses to generate the pressure. The metals would bond at the molecular level because there was nothing to interfere.

I don't want to hijack the thread but I'll tell a short hunting story if y'all will bear with me. In Texas, almost all land is privately owned but the state has a lottery system for many types of hunting. I was picked one year to hunt on a wildlife preserve that was closed for many years so the game could be managed. This hunt was only for wild hogs using handguns - the exceptions in this case being non-game animals, such as coyotes. These hunts usually last for 3 days so you have to get in quickly, map out the area and get to hunting. My two companions and I were given a 600 acre patch and turned loose. This was late October, before regular gun season but a front had come through and it was crisp in South Texas - about 40 and clear with the temps dropping. Late on the first day, I sat on a "sendero" (dirt road) - waiting for a hog to cross. Imagine my surprise when a very nice buck stepped out about 50 yds away and started meandering toward me. I was sitting on a camp stool with a .44 on my hip but could not shoot since deer were not allowed so I chose to remain still and see what happened. The air was quiet with no breeze, the buck worked his way along the road and never saw me. When he was about 15 feet away, I couldn't stand the suspense any longer so I stood up, waved my hands and yelled. The deer jumped straight up about 8 feet and looked a lot like a cartoon character, with feet going all directions. I stood there alone dying with laughter and could still hearing him smashing through the brush five minutes later - I doubt he stopped until the next county. The funny thing is that payback came a hour or so later, right before dark. This place was loaded with coyotes and they started yipping a few minutes before sundown. I was still on my stool waiting for something, when a loud snarl came from the brush immediately behind me. Apparently, a coyote had been wandering around close by and walked right up on me without knowing I was there. My hair stood on end and I got the urge to clean my pants, so I picked up my stool and left - it was too dark to see the sights anyway. I figured the Lord didn't like me playing a joke on that deer so He figured a way to fix my little red wagon...

I tried the ad method and got some good stuff but you also may have to wade through some BS. Some years ago, I ran an ad for one week in five of the local rural papers and scored some hand tools, three anvils - all in need of some repair but serviceable, 750 lbs of good coal and an almost brand new hand blower and forge. I also had a guy call and want $1800 for a home-made forge in really sad shape. The fellow who sold me the blower and forge also had an anvil but absolutely would not discuss selling because it was "Grandpa's" and 'you never know, I might want to learn to blacksmith one day' (nevermind he had just sold the means for a fire). By all means, try the ad method but be wary. You will also learn that it takes all kinds...

No beard shape - the blades in the movie were the same width as the eye so you see a rectangle when viewed from the side. It was as if they took a piece of material 6" wide by 14" long and rolled the eye on one end so the finished dimension was around 6x8, with a 2" round eye.

There are some books floating around that describe the various ways to do this - Lindsey Publications used to sell one. The basic summary is that you can build or buy a convertor to either generate the third "ghost" leg with capacitors or combine them with a three phase motor. In my experience (that and $.50 gets you a Coke:-), the capacitor-only units won't handle much HP. I can't tell you why that is - maybe it's the rating of the caps but it seems easier to gain HP by putting a suitable 3-phase motor in the circuit. On the other hand, I bought a 10hp Rotophase for a very good price from a farmer who eventually got real 3-phase electricity so you may want to check around in rural areas for used units rather than take the time to build one from scratch.

The NMLRA is the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Assoc. It's like the NRA but aimed at black powder interests such as mountain man and survival skills, target shooting, rendevouz, etc. I don't know where you are located but there are 13 clubs listed in Kentucky. Some are probably only shooting clubs - you'd have to call to find out. The general info number is 812/667-5131 x224, ask for Roberta.

Wow...that's a tough one. I was raised by an older generation who are all dead now. My parents were born late to my grandparents and so was I - my generational counterparts are in their late 60's. When I was a kid, my great uncle still lived on the farm that our family settled in the 1850's. I was extremely fortunate to do a lot that my sons have missed out on - even though we live in a semi-rural area. My grandpa and uncles fished and hunted with great frequency - we sometimes camped out for weeks when their work permitted. Enough about me. If hunting and fishing are all you are interested in, there are books galore - but if I were you, I'd try some of the "mountain men" type organizations in your area for basic knowledge. Those are the ones most likely to deal with old ways of doing things and survival skills but not C-rations and machine guns. Of course, a lot is on the Internet and the Foxfire series of books are quite good. You could also ask around your community of new friends, most folks are willing to answer questions or even offer to take you on a hunt. Some of it will depend on what you want to do. I completely process my own wild game (the hard work starts once the kill is made) but a lot of modern hunters don't do anything more than field dress then go to the commercial process plant. Case in point, my wife teaches 5-6th grade and had little "hunters" in class last year. She took some of my smoked sausage to school and described the process from animal to food product, then let them all eat some. Two of her boys who hunt regularly were amazed because their hunting experiences to that point hadn't included anything past field dressing. I do my own because I like to have quality control over the whole process (it shows in the eating) but it's not something that you have to master to enjoy yourself. Have fun and enjoy yourself in the outdoors. It's a great opportunity to observe the works of our Creator and have a little peaceful time. Use common sense with the guns and such if you don't have a lot of trigger time but don't be intimidated either. Spend some time at a range or in the woods practicing so that part of the process becomes instinctive - you'll be glad when old Mossy Back steps out.

Mark, What kind of shape are the cushion bumpers in? Most of the hammer looks like it's in pretty good condition - good score.

Very nice work - I prefer the look of the handled one (for no particular reason other than personal opinion). With regard to ax design, I watched a movie the other night on IFC about two Basque families who lived in Spain over several generations. It was a quirky little movie and one of the themes was the ongoing competition between the men in log chopping. They would each set up ten logs and cut them in two in timed events. The interesting thing was the shape of the axes, basically a big rectangle in profile so the poll was the same length as the width of the blade. In addition, the handles were round in section - not oval like modern American axes. The eye in the poll looked to be turned but not welded back to the blade. There were probably extras doing the real work but the actors playing the parts actually did some chopping and the chips really flew. I thought this was an interesting shape that seemed to develop apart from the more recognized "tomahawk" profile so often seen if both work and war axes.

I agree - start mild and use progressively stronger solvents. In fact, I would start with soaking in Windex or household ammonia before going to anything else. Most inks started with a water base and will react to some degree with fresh water. Sharpies are the exception but that's not what you have.

I'd like to offer prayers and best wishes to all our friends in the Middle East in what appears to be an escalating conflict between Israel and Lebanon - especially Herr Hofi and his family. Hopefully, the folks firing rockets will soon tire of it.