rlarkin

That's quite a spread of options. I get mine from "The Horseshoe Barn" in Sacratamatoe. 50lb bags of Elkhorn for about $30.

This morning one of my salesmen comes up to me and says, "Got something in my truck for you. If you don't want it, it's going to the dump." Well, I walked out to his truck and could not believe my eyes. It was a MIGHTY MITE FPH model 525! (FPH stands for FOOT POWERED HAMMER) At least thats what the decal on the front said to me. The main tubes are 4x4 1/8, and 6 foot long. Of course some parts are missing, but I am certain I can make them. It now sits in my shop waiting for a ground up restoration.

Steak flippers.

Nothing special, just thought it was a cool (HOT) pic. Took this Saturday just after she got lit, getting ready to make some flippers for some friends. HOT HOT HOT - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

If any of my neighbors want coal smoke, they have to make their own!

"twee Air"

The Horseshoe Barn in Sacramento is only about 55 miles from me. When I need coal, I call em up and place the order. I send my daughter up to get it and they are top notch. They place each 50lb sack in a black garbage bag to protect my wifes Expedition, and load her up for me. The first time I sent her up, I had to call the next day and tell the owner that I was very pleased with the way they treated the sale. I think at first she thought I was going to complain, but then was relieved when I gave her sales staff praise.

ELKHORN. That's it. Now I remember. I actually like the way it burns. SUPPER easy to light.

Last weekend I had the fire lit for about 4 hours and got a very small amout that looked like the clinker on the right minus the rocks. I have looked everwhere for coal in Calif., and can only find it at a ferrier supply in Sacramento, about 60 miles from me. Comes in white woven plastic sacks. 50lbs for $29. Don't remember the label on the bag. I will have to look tonight.

Looks good, but I have a couple observations, as I am in the first stages of laying one out. 1) Seems to me that the connection from the treadle to the hammer arm should connect to both both sides of the pivot to eliminate any one sidded stresses. 2) Shouldn't the hammer arm have some flex to it? Like I said. Just observations. So far I have 2 different springs for the return, a complete spring pack from a 3/4 ton cheby, a several lengths of I beam, C chanel, and 4" square. Now all I need is the time.

Maybe it is the device you would use the drive the chicken into the feeder. Hold the handle and use the flat side to drive it in. If one gets stuck, you use the slotted end to hook the legs and pry it out?

Sounds like it ingested some air in the hydraulics. Bleed it.

This was just listed in my area. Don't need one since my Silver forge and a good unit on it, but I might see what else he has. Antique Blacksmith Forge Blower, Buffalo Forge Co.

If it has carbide teeth, you will see individual pieces of a different metal brazed on the tips. I manage a lumber yard, and we have a Re-saw that uses 24' blades. We use bi-metal blades that are disposable, (so I get a LOT of scrap), because they break quite often, and and the carbide tiped blades are expensive. Let me tell you, that when a blade breaks, and you are anywhere near the saw, it is scarry. I have fabricated a cage so that when the blades break, they are contained. I have seen a 24' long 2 1/2" wide piece of steel wadded up like a piece of tin foil. I dont get much scrap out of those. We have about 5 blades sitting in the mill waiting for me to cut up.

DONE DEAL. Sounds to me like you better start clearing a spot!

It is good for putting in concrete. Forging? I use it to practice. Rebar is made of scrap steel. ANY steel that will melt and form a bar. It is very low (if any) in carbon. I does take a decent weld however. I taught my daughter to weld using rebar.

1) Look under the jaws for cracks. 2) Close all the way and check alignment. Idealy it should touch a the top edge and be slightly open at the bottom. 3) Remove the screw and check the threads. Make sure they are clean and complete all the way, and if possible, look inside the nut and do the same.

Electric dryers use both 110, and 220. If you look at the plug, you will see 4 prongs. 2 are hot legs with 110 each, 1 is a neutral, and 1 is a ground. The 220 for the drying action comes from both the hot legs, which are 110 each, and the ground. Just like a welder. The motor, lights, and timing mechanism use 110, which comes from one of the 110 legs, and the neutral. My guess is the hot motor came from the dust you mentioned, or is actually on it's way out. Are you sure you wired it correct.

If you google quot, you will find that it somewhat of an html code for quotation mark.

I have yet to actually make "FORGED" tongs. I have however welded together a pair for holding RR spikes. Used 1/2" rebar and some 5/8" chanel. They work real good.

When I sense that I am getting close to the end of a session I will quit replenishing the fire, and just clean up around the fire pot. When I do finish for the day, I turn off the blower, wait for a few minutes, and put a scoop of green coal on the pile. I have found that without the blower on, it helps to extinguish it quicker, starts real easy the nest session.

An electrician buddy of mine just gave me 2 24" Cooper Metal Halide lowboys for my shop. 400 watts each. They are brand new, with lamps. All I have to do is repair 2 nail guns for him. I know what I am doing this weekend.

The key on my small press hangs on a string tied to the motor mount. All my small hand drills are key-less. My 1/2" big boy has a metal clip on the handle for the key. My Big press came with a 3/4" key chuck that I removed and put on a 1/2" key-less Jacobs clone that I got off E-pray.