Little Forks Forge

Bleeding is not working at all. I am able to get the ram to move - but it is not locking at all with the valve closed. In other words - I can push the ram back up and it stays up (no air pressure pushing it back down again)... I am forced to take it to a shop for repairs I guess... Thanks.

Thanks Rich - that is an extremely generous offer! Alright... In response to other answers here: It isn't motorized - it's hand pumped. The valve is on the bottom of the reservoir and is just a screw valve with a large handle on it. If you look at the picture - the unpainted cylinder on the right side of the press is where it's located at the bottom. There might be air in it - but at the same time, since the valve is at the bottom of the reservoir and the res was full, I'm more doubtful that air could have made it's way down there that quickly. Not that much oil was lost - less than a pint... I'm gearing up to take it apart and see if I can locate the ball/one-way valve that's come out... Unless one of you could direct me otherwise.

One of the guys in our shop was using this press to bend some metal, without being trained on it.. :mad: (but, I digress). When he was releasing the valve to home the press cylinder he loosened the valve too far and oil started spilling out - since then the press does not press at all. I need some direction in repairing this. My thinking is that the valve screws down onto some kind of one-way valve and that loosening the valve too much unseats the one-way valve - but I'm unsure as to how to repair it, or even if I can do it in house. Any help would be appreciated.

here in Quebec we have a different name for everthing.....for example a 2x4 is actually a 2 x twice

Chair to the tool ... not tool to the chair.... Video - Breaking News Videos from CNN.com If you kind of sit sideways on this chair and set the anvil...could it work?

My car seems not to like that speed.........guess I have to give up the lead shoes!

trying to fit a square peg into a round hole.....any ideas?

Now I get it...cool tool. thanks. Next time I'm neer a HF store I should check it out....but what about home made benders?

I am getting really intrested in casting metal. Years ago I cast pewter beltbuckels in a RTV mold. Now I would like to cast motifs for wrought iron beds (connecting square and round rod in the motif rather than welding and buffing). I have seen pictures of a prosses using steel permanent molds and ?? type of metal in a electric foundry. http://www.thewroughtironco.com/images/factory/pouring.jpg Is there a metal that is strong enough to make the connections for a bed, but have a low enough melting point to use RTV?

thanks for the tip....but let me guess the HF that you use was bought @ $49 brand new 100 years ago. Oliver

I have a mental picture of this that is way far out!

I'm in the southern part of Quebec which is more north than most. I use an old iron to pre heat my anvil and it works great (I noticed someone else mentioned it as well). At the start of my forging I plug the iron in and in 15-20 min its ready. I bought my iron at the Salvation Army for 2 bucks. Oliver

I guess I should have said I have looked through most of the forms and the blueprints and was looking for more ideas. this is a great site, thanks for the welcome.

I am exploring different methods of bending metal. I have worked with a Hossfeild alot, but I wonder if there is a homemade version of this type? There is a cool posting in "blueprints" for a ring roller, are there other type like this? I have seen a bender made from a thick metal plate that has holes drilled on several arcs to recive pins and a leverage bar. Does this sound familler? If you can share any other info, pics, or plans it will be greatly received by everyone, I'm sure.