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I have a 40kg Kuhn. It has an adjustable drip oiler in the center (height) of the compressor cylinder, at the rear. Better to have too much oil, than a fried chicken. :) :)

Good Morning, You don't need me to say 'GOOD LUCK', you already have it. At the end of the first day, a rest will be enjoyed. Take a little notebook or someplace where you keep notes, keep track of how many people will say 'My grandfather was a Blacksmith' or 'Are you a REAL Blacksmith?' Gotta keep up the humour!!! We started keeping track of the silly statements / questions a couple years ago. Now we just look at one another when someone makes a statement and say the number to each other. People may think that we are nuts, but we actually are!!!! :) :) The stage fright will be fine. Enjoy the moment. Neil

For carrying or handling small rail

Good Morning, The crack in the bottom will not be a bother. Add a layer of clay, clinker or whatever to the bottom, that will help spread the heat from the crack. Heat goes up. The crack on the side can be brazed, can use a cutting torch to get enough heat to braze it. If you don't have torches, bolt a patch onto the outside.

Good Morning, I can't see anything about your forge in that video, other than the blower is down low and it is hard pipe up to the forge. Where does your burner sit (top, bottom, side, angled, centered in the fire-box)? What is the diffuser plate like at the entry to the burner? What is the mixing chamber like, below the diffuser? How many ports are there in the burner? Have you tried plugging some of the burner ports (maybe the ports furthest from the air inlet)? What is the pressure you are running at? Have you tried adjusting the pressure up or down? Where are you introducing the propane? Back far enough to allow the propane to mix with the air? Are you using a fixed jet or just a section of pipe? Is the nozzle in the center of the pipe? Have you tried spacing the burner back, out of the fire-box? What are you using to control the air flow/pressure? Have you tried larger air pipe to the forge? Radius corners instead of a pipe elbow? Like Tim said, something is allowing the fire to go back up into your mixing chamber. This normally is not enough air flow/pressure. Neil

Good Morning Dave, Talk to Ken Gerhardt or Ron Wailes. Their information is available through the NWBA membership list. Both are very familiar with building Ribbon Burner Forges and they are accessable to you, so they can see what you have done different. Neil

People that use propane to dry drywall inside buildings, use up to 6 -100lbs. Bottles. Talk to anyone in the construction Rent-All business. Here in God's Country, I go the Hydraulic Fitting Store. They have it all. Who does fittings in your town? (someone who does fittings all day). Ask them!! When one bottle freezes, put it in a pail of water. The water acts as a Heat Sink, it allows you to work longer. Two bottles = Two pails!! The added feature is you can keep your refreshments cool as well. Ice Coffee. :) :) Neil

32MM = 1 1/4" almost. It works. Front knuckle for front wheel drive. Front spindle for rear wheel drive. Rear stub axle is a rear spindle. Some are bolted to the rear axle (most are), some not. You are building a Power Hammer and are concerned about getting dirty????? Get off your keyboard and wander around the wrecking yard. They are a great source of ideas when creating something. just my $0.02 Neil

Greetings from Canada, Great starter Tongs. Keep them and use them, as you use them, you will see the weak points. Pay attention to what you would like in the next ones you build.. Constructive Criticism; Tongs 1, A good start. These are able to hang on a tong rack (with the gap just behind the hinge area). Tongs 2, you may have started with too small of material, hinge area is quite thin. Upset the material next time, to gain mass in that area. Tongs 3, Typical beginner mistake. The material on each side of the hinge area is too thin/small. The leverage of the reins, will cause them to fail/bend where they are thin. Leave more material when you are shaping the back end of the Jaw and the front end of the Reins. Same problem with the hinge area, upset to gain more material. Tongs 4, A good start for scrolling tongs. If you shape the reins so they bulge out just after the hinge area (instead of at the ends) you will find they work better for scrolling. Keep them and look at them in a few years. This is where you started, This is where I am now (in a few years)!! :) :) Neil

Forge, Burner, Fan, Flue, Location, Other Tools. They have to match. Which one are you taking about? The Chicken or the Egg? :unsure: :unsure:

Good Morning Clint, A trick Tom Clark showed me, was to glue the anvil with silicone sealer, same silicone sealer you can buy at the hardware store. Router out a shape like Jim said, add some silicone. Job Done. Neil

Good Morning John, I think my tape measure just has lines. Know Knumbers, That Eye Kan Sea!!!! One and another one and another one................... :) :) Neil

Good Morning, Eh Tyler 90, Eh In Ontario, you should be getting in contact with the Ontario Artist Blacksmith Association. Check out their web-site. There are a huge amount of VERY knowledgeable people in OABA. If you post your location, I think you will be surprised there are members close to you. Check out CanIRON.ca and book time next July. CanIRON 10, will be in Baddeck, Cape Breton. Baddeck is the home town of Alexander Graham Bell, R&D Facilities. Home of the "Bell Museum" which is a 'GOTTA DO' Hope to see you on the Cape!! For those that don't know, CANADA is spelled C, eh, N, eh, D, eh!! :) :) Keep smiling, Neil

What is the application that you are inquiring about?? Clearance between axle and bearing should be measured in ten thousandth of an inch, if it were for machinery or highway use. The difference between 1/16" and 3/16" clearance, Is not acceptable. IMHO The job of a Blacksmith; Measure with a yardstick Cut it with an Axe Heat it and Beat it Until it fits perfectly

Yes, I have used torsion bars to make Hammer Eye punches. I start with a slitting punch made from either H-13 or S-7 and then open it up to size with the torsion bar drifts. I drill 3 - 1/4" pilot holes, 1/4" between them, to start with. This controls that your handle hole will be where you want it, not having to chase it back. I drill from both sides. This stops the wander. Neil

Why don't you trust what your supplier told you???? Trying to gain points??

Very Simple, you heat it up slowly and treat it nicely!!! Wrong Answer????? Shucks..... :) :)

Good Morning, I have a 4' x 8' - 8" high concrete block (that I poured, with the form sitting on the shop floor. Plastic sheet membrane on the bottom). On top of the bottom block, I have a 2' x 4' - 12" high block that the Kuhn 110 lbs. hammer sits on. When I put the re-bar in the blocks, I put 4 pieces of "DYWIDAG" Rock Anchor rod, poking up from the bottom block and going through plastic sleeves in the top block to tie the 2 blocks together. I made it this way in 1998, so that it is portable. I have conveyor belt under the foot of the anvil and between both blocks. There has been no cracking of the concrete yet (I can't remember if they put fibres/strands in the mix or not). I have moved it around the shop to different locations a few times and the surface of the shop floor is not marked or chaffed, still shiney. Neil

There is a Company in the Seattle/Puget Sound area that has been blowing Steel and Aluminum plate together. It is used in the Boeing/Nasa world. What gets blown up, still can go up!!!

Sometimes you have to do a pile of homework and mathmatics. Cost of a wreck + cost of repairs and upgrades + cost of a ride to pick it up + unknown factors and consequences = real costs. Then maybe you have to do your own machining to make new parts, Etc. Etc. In the end, you still have an old Hammer. Sometimes it makes the price of a new Air Hammer, very attractive. Jam an air hose to it or stretch a power cable, job done!!!!! :) :) Neil

Sometimes you have to do a pile of homework and mathmatics. Cost of a wreck + cost of repairs and upgrades + cost of a ride to pick it up + unknown factors and consequences = real costs. Then maybe you have to do your own machining to make new parts, Etc. Etc. In the end, you still have an old Hammer. Sometimes it makes the price of a new Air Hammer, very attractive. Jam an air hose to it or stretch a power cable, job done!!!!! :) :) Neil

It works well on a Port-a-Power. The volume in the reservoir is small, it works with a small system. I also use one on a larger cylinder, you just need to create a larger reservoir to tie into it. It is just an air over hydraulic pump, nothing magic.

Hi Ian, I use one similar to that on one of my Race Cars. I use it to maintain oil pressure in the oil gallery, when under extreme cornering (the oil sloshes away from the oil pick-up and the oil pump cavitates). Sure works well, I've never had an oil starvation problem since. Neil

Pitting on the Mainshaft is not a deal breaker. Spray weld the shaft and go back to original size or just machine another shaft. There is no Rocket Science. These machines are made to take a Likin' and keep on Tickin' If the Babbett is worn out, make the shaft a larger diameter or re-pour the Babbett. The wheels on the Buss, go................... Brian Robertson has the right idea, It is easy to up in price, It is hard to go down. There will be rats in the attic, EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED. Expect that it will take at least a $1000.00, before you pour paint in it to make it look like a 'Dolly Dress-up'. It looks a lot like the 50Lbs Jardine that we have. A real l nice upgrade is to put a brake around the working wheel. I made mine with leather belting. It makes a world of difference with the control. There is the Western Canadian Blacksmith Guild in Alberta and Saskatchewan. There is a group in Edmonton, there was a group in Calgary, there is a group in Saskatoon. Alberta is quite a large piece of Real Estate, There must be someone close to you that you can ask. Doug Newell is in Cochrane, Mark Pearce and John Monteath are in Calgary, I can't remember the names of the fellows in Edmonton. Neil

Good Morning, If you post your area where you reside on the world, you may have a neighbour close enough to answer your questions. It is still possible to buy any part that you need for that hammer. Canadian Giant, Jardine and Little Giant, take the same parts. It looks like it has stopped the earth (underneath it) from moving for a while. It is a good little hammer, they run quite quick so the piece you are working maintains the heat for longer than if you are working by hand. What is worth? Worth is the agreed upon price between two parties. Answer your own question, What is it worth to you? How much work is it going to be to free it up? How much work can you do yourself? Factor everything in and make an offer accordingly. Don't count how much for paint (lipstick). :) :)