Stash

Randy McDaniel told me this story a few weeks ago, I will relay it the best my feeble memory can recall. He had an anvil seemingly ,stamped CSA, and was very popular with a few folk south of the border who were offering goodly sums of money, but he wouldn't sell. He did some more research ( Maybe from Postman) and it turned out to be a C&A Armitage mousehole, with the '&' a little obscured. Randy - my apologies if I mis spoke or stole your thunder. Steve

Great idea! I have a handful in my masonry bucket that have been retired since I got a roto- hammer. Back to work they go! Steve

Kromac- I'm just down 202 in Glen Mills. Shoot me a PM if you want to stop by and see the shop, maybe catch me with a fire going. I'm just a hobbiest, with delusions of grandeur, but I have fun with it. Steve

Hey Doublehorn- where you at? Sounds like the guy on the Phila CL out my way. I have seen his prior posts and didn't bother to ask pricing. He just kept renewing every week or so. Don't know if it's the same guy, but there is a 252# Hay Budden, currently marked down to $2250, been refreshed weekly for the last month. If he can get that kind of scratch, then God bless him. But yowie! Steve

Awwwww that's awesome. Congratulations. Steve

I dunno- I'm still trying to figure how Frosty got fish and chips in his eye. Maybe a re read is in order. Steve

I have rolling doors- 6' double on the front, 8' single in the rear. Front is fine- full sun, gravel to the slab, grade away from the building - no problem. Rear is soil below the door. I thought I graded it enough, but it heaved and got runoff that froze the door into place till the thaw. I use that door to access my flue cap, and have to traverse the tundra to open and close the flue. I plan on taking Charles' suggestion and doing the gravel drain thing. Was going to do it this past fall but never got aroundtuit. It is on my list for the thaw. Yeah, really. Steve

I'll jump in here. I'd been working a 170# PW when I saw an ad on CL just listing an anvil, and the price, $300. I called, made the appointment and took off. It was a real nice 179# PW with a smooth top , nicely reduced edges and excellent rebound. I rescued it from being a hearthside ornament and took it home. In the meantime, my wife texted me to hurry home, as I had just become a Pop-pop. Less than 2 hours later I was holding Shanna in my arms. I will never sell that anvil, but if she wants it, it's hers. She turned 2 the beginning of this month. The anvil is a bit older. Steve

I have my main anvil horn left, because horn right, the sweet spot on the horn is scarred up with chisel cuts. Horn left, it is nice and clean. I have a second anvil, one step further away I aim to the right. I find myself drawing down on the left horn, and doing bending on the right. I've played around with the options, and this is what works and feels good to me. I don't really care what I'm told is right or wrong. Whatever works. Steve

If it says England on it, it is post 1910. I'm guessing it is in the 1885-1910 range. Pre-1885 has always struck me as a little blockier. Steve

Like DSW said, the law is a consumer protection thing, for residences only- not commercial construction. If you are a sub to a GC in a residential project, you ARE required to have your HIC (Home Improvement Contractor) license, as is the GC. From what I understand, the enforcement is usually complaint-based. The license costs $50 and is good for 2 years. The Fed DOT thing is another big can of worms- like Doug said, over 14k # across state lines and you're there. Steve

PW is forged from wrought iron, with a tool steel top forge-welded on top. The square hole on the sides are handling holes, to insert a square bar to hold/maneuver the anvil during the forging process. That looks like a real nice anvil- it won't let you down. It won't let your grandchildren down either. Get it, and start polishing it with hot steel. Steve

Don't throw way the 'punky' bits- the one photo showed spalting- basically the early stages of rot. If the wood is a little soft there, you can stabilize with CA glue and keep those nice patterns. Like was already said, de-bark and look for bug holes under the bark. Slab it up, paint or wax (I usually use any latex paint I have laying around) , sticker with 1/2" or so sq wood sticks and put somewhere to dry slowly. Steve

Some of the older PWs (I think pre-1885) had a 2 part faceplate, so there might be a seam across the face at some point. Not to worry- just do the ping or ball bearing test on both sides of the 'crack'. If it passes, the seam is still sound. If you get different sounds or rebound across the crack, watch out. Steve

In my neck of the woods, rr ties are made from treated wood, and thus are not a candidate for anvil use, what with the burning and all. RR rail would work a lot better, and there are lots of threads here to read. Pack a lunch and a beverage and dive in. Steve

Make some one-piece quatrefoils, and decorate the center (head) with animal heads or something. Collar a bunch together and have a unique grille. Steve

Don't bother mailing- I'll come pick it up for free! What Glenn said- a great layout table with the ability to clamp stuff down, set jigs, hold your lunch, etc. Steve

I usually drill a hole and epoxy it in place. Roto-hammer makes a quick hole in any rock. I put painter tape around the hole so the epoxy doesn't splurb all over things. For wood the same, or you can make a longer tenon and thread it for a nut. Steve

Pipe wrench, not too adjustable, either. Steve

Yeah, what Frosty said- don't pre-cut in anticipation of ??? I have a stock of 1/4"square I got from a guy, all nicely cut int 2 1/2- 3" pieces. A real nuisance to use. Cut a few chunks to play around with now, but cut the rest to fit what you will make with it when you're ready to make it. You have some good stuff there. That said, it is yours- you can do what you want with it. Steve

Yeah, what he said. It is called a bushing hammer. Steve

If you haven't already, pull the top off so you can see the gears- there might be a bunch of gunk/dried grease etc clogging things- clean it all out, and flush the case with solvent. Then start in with some wd40 or penetrating oil and manually work the gears back and forth. Don't force anything- no wacking it with a hammer. I took apart a blower that had some chipped gear teeth, and the bits were wedged in, preventing any movement. Also make sure the fan side is clean- mousies and mud daubers can get in there and clog things up. From that side you can try and shift the fan back and forth, gently. Just work at it easy and use the wd40 etc very liberally, and that should do it for you. Steve

Yo Nick-welcome to a fun addiction. As Doug indicated, I'm in your neck of the woods- I'm in Garnet Valley, probably 20 min from Upland. Shoot me a pm thru the site here if you're interested in a tour of my shop. Happy Hammering! Steve

Not sure of the make, but it looks like a wrought with tool steel top. The 'U' looks to be added-welded on later. Look on the bottom- there is probably a 'D' welded there, for 'down'. Steve

I don't really do this kind of stuff, but my first thought had to do with the size and alloy/ shear strength of the pivot pin. Over-engineered as you say, though, it should be a fun exercise. In progress pix are great. Steve