MOONY

nice find it probily made chain mail for the crusaders

nice job i like punch an rivits

ye they make a ok post anvil , i rather re point them an send them back to work , and re point them again in a few moths , and over again you get about 180 dollars to re point eazy money

hi hope the hammer in is a good time for all from moony

get hammered should be on again the last weekend in october, if phill dose not have any thing planed ,LOL we had about 20 last year it was a good time had by all , another anvil was started to be forged , it now is about finished the base has to be attached and hardie hole an pritchel hole made then hardened so it happening but slow well if you are interested is coming to 2014 get hammered let us know by private message in iforge iron moony

hi all i might get up i not sure , it has been a tough year , and i have just won a few jobs an i should put my efforts into the pay work , but i might get up just as a day tripper but if not have a good and safe time no hurts , moony

hello all yes this is glenn moon here yes it good to see more hitting away , i have a hammer in the last weekend of october all welcome and i am starting to have classes i will be advertizing at mg industrial supplies fishwik or contact through here by sending a private message moony

hi Johnnie For all my advice is worth, i own a ww greener single barrel full Damascus [pattern welded] when i purchased it it was a rusty old pipe on a nice timber stock , i used the fines brasso polish and some cooking oil in my hand, that i had in a soft cotton cloth glove ,i polished it for many a hour till all the rust was removes , after cleaning the rust on out side, i then pulled a brass brush through the bore count less time with the same brasso and cooking old mix in the bore till it was shining after all metal had been cleaned i them washed the metal with spray and wipe, kitchen cleaner . to remove the brasso and cooking oil then i pulled gun oil through the bore on cloth, i then treated the out barrel with ferric chloride to bring back the pattern on the metal then i used bicab soda to neutralise the acid then immediately after the bicab i used gun oil on the out barrel to protect it ,the pattern has a contrast dark and light it looks like knew , the timber i just wiped with the same spray and wipe then when clean, i put some Danish oil to protect the timer an then it was complete , i did not want to fire mine , but the fools i purchased the ww greener of where firing it with modern ammo, not knowing it was pattern welded barrel as to firing your gun , i might down load the shells with black powder so as the charge are not to heavy , after you get lt looked at competent gun smith nice to see the old pattern welds still about enjoy and think how much effort the persons that welded the metal and the hand working to create these works of art and if your gun is not a rusty pipe i would just clean it and oil it and that is all that is need to keep the natural patina that life has given this lovely shot gun i forgot to say my ww greener is dated 1890 , it is open hammer ,with under turn leaver that is also the trigger guard to open the breech and i would not fire yours shoty ! just look an wonder moony

ye as he say 2 lolol

you would love the smell of roasting you lolololl

well i am thinking it look lovely i almost cut the left one off with a old hack saw to get my paws on it but the single arch 20cwt steamy i got coming will do me just fine as garden sculpture i say that curved sword like is a link to allow the hammer to self acting as i see not trigger stop , and i say the fellow driving was the shop boy, tea lad, an hammer drivers apprentice , or , go get the sky hook , ,person lolol

i will get a picture in a few days an post it it a link that allow me to stand flat footed and use just my front of you foot u might have a nice section of steel under your heel but i donot i stand both feet on ground an the toes do the work but my hammer is a massey 7cwt you need the foot control sensitive not heavy just slight pressure to make it move, but i am a heavy weight 130 kg thats 288lbs about

i think your 400 has more stroke an power , but this 200 it look impressive

i had a samuel platt galith it hit like all dickens , only 56 lbs but it could forge no trouble 3'' bar mild steel harder steel it was a bit slower on but, i sold it and installed a 55K G anyang its a ok hammer you just have to not let them get real hot or the oil will glaze up the control valves , i flush mine with a bit of diesel after a few full oil cans go through

i have a link that comes down to the floor when the hammer is running flat out , an when the tup is up the peddle link is only about 1-1/2 '' of the ground so i can stand on both feet and use my toes to move the hammer peddle i hate the stork stand

good to hear all ok again , ye its not always as it thinks it is , some times u have to go backwards to get forwards

well ye phill is correct never use a cylinder hone oooooo the stone broke an bit fell down in the tup cylinder ports it was a real hassle to get them out i managed after many a time i could not see them only feel it, i use grease on the end of a wire to stick them an lift it out , and yes after many a hour like 12 hour no stop , the bore in the control valve, the oil got a bit glazed and the valve would stick ,open and the hammer would not stop hitting , i was using a thin air tool oil but the hammer got rather hot after the long running , i suggest every once an a while to run the hammer with diesel fuel to flush it out and after then go back yo the air tool oil and dont run none stop for many hours moony

ye welded hold on are not so good cant beat tongs

hi col did making the face hit together help moony

all good as long as you enjoy it

and dont tap hard on the edges

i have a tap measure elf, the tap measures go missing , he hydes them , so you have dozens of them every where to keep him confused , same with french chalk .

well to all, it just hammer control and steel moving , to get it to happen , and as forgemaster say, the un washed need , oo nooo, i must be in that class , an as to hardie cut , if you are that bad a hitter , you better go collect postage stamps , and on the practice till your arm dislocates please don't , if you don't get it in 3 goes try another week or so later but it is possible but not all can

hi collin ye u might try a bit of warming it up but if all else fail keep hammering moony

hi,all ye if u try it in what is normal mild steel that is a lot of times a bit tough , i use soft steel it the kind used to tie up large bundles of steel , or try wrought iron or use gp welding rod 6mm happy hammering