brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I came up with a different hotcut hardy several years ago that is far superior to any other hardy out there, and it is made much more efficiently. It has a tapered shank which will fit into any hardy hole, and I leave the chisel end curved. When the hardy is struck it locks itself into the hole, so it doesn't move. This alone allows your effort to go into your work without losing your efforts to a bouncing or chattering hardy with a shoulder. I don't care how tightly you fit a hardy with a shoulder to your anvil; it will loosen up wth work. The tapered shank will get tighter with work, and a sharp blow to the side of the hardy will remove it. I know alot of people would assume that you could split or break your hardy hole with a wedge like this, but I have never split an anvil. When you cut your material yields to the chisel. I would not use other forging dies in this manner. The other advantage of this hardy is the curved chisel which gives you less surface area contact, which gives you more penetration with each blow. I know alot of people will assume that your material would slide off the curve, but the complete opposite actually occurs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oak Hill Forge Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 What is the material ? What size stock do you start with ? Looks like a neat design ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 I used 4140 because that is what I have. I can cut cold with it also, but I do prefer 5160 for cold cutting. We've been cutting alot of 2" and under 4140 with it and it holds up with no problem unless,of course, you hit it with your hammer, but I cut like Hofi so that rarely happens. they will suprise you though because they cut so much quicker than anything you are used to. The one and a quarter hardy was made from one and 5/8" round. The one and 1/8' hardy was made from 1 and 1/2" round. The 1" hardy was made from 1 and 1/4" round. They will work in hardy holes that are as small as 3/4" and everything in between though, but they would stick up a little farther. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwin Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 You really don't have a problem with those getting jammed in so you have to work for a while to loosen them? Do you harden them? If so do you harden just the edge? I am wondering whether you leave the shank soft or slightly harden it so it will be less likely to deform and jam in the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 No there is no problem with it getting stuck. I have had problems before when I didn't forge the shank squarely or in a bad hardy hole, but then you just hit it from the bottom while holding on to it. I do not harden the shank. I do harden the chisel end but not always for myself because I do cut some rather large stock very often, and with that much heat you loose your temper anyway. [just a note for anvil owners] The first thing you shoud do is dress your hardy hole with a slight radius before you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremiah Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Brian, I really like that design. Can I use it? I like the idea of it fitting both anvils in the shop and I have started on an old mining bit that I think I will shape this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in NY Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 It's a lot more fun if I find this stuff in the tail gate section all by myself. Do you have a website for sales or is this it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I use that same design for hardies- the axe type curved edge- which I find works very well and is so easy to forge but I do put a shoulder on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 JEREMIAH, Of course, you can use it. MATT, This is it. My brother and I make them one at a time with a sledge and a hand hammer, but if you or anyone out there can mass produce them, I'd be glad to help you sell them when I go out and about. PHILIP, Yes, it's the only way to go. I don't know who came up with the straight top hardy, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't a blacksmith! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I use a standard collared hardy but I do use the curved blade concept and agree that it cuts better. I am also less likely to hit it accidentally with a hammer. My hardy is also beveled on one side and flat on the other so I can vary the cut surface profile. For production, I would try to make two at once. Put your bar of tool steel on a big cheese fuller (top and bottom) and make two shanks in one heat. Forge each end to the blade form then cut in half to make two chisels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
element Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 thanks for the great pics and tips:D Im looking forward to making a few for my shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrous Beuler Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Brian that's a nice design, I like it. Gonna have to make me one. The "cutting better because it's curved" thing makes sense, like a slash instead of a straight on chop. I'm guessing that visually it is easier to use because you can see more of what is going on and so have more control. Do you find that these tapered shanks move much under use or does the tool stay stationary? Dan:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Big Blu was ran off of here several times for promoting their products and you are capitalizing on the tailgate section and your still here? see post #20 of this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 H Wooldridge, I used to cut with a hardy that was beveled on one side and straight on the other, but after getting around Tom Clark and Tsur Sedan, I switched back to a regular chisel. Check out Hofi's blueprints on how to cut with a hardy. You can cut how you want by just changing the angle of your material. As far as production goes, you should have a power hammer with the exact dies and do them in two heats in a gas forge non stop like it should be done. I only have my brother as a striiker and my hand hammer. We do work 2 pieces at a time in a coal forge. Dan OHare, The tool stays stationary. JWBIRNWORKS, I'm new to this sight. I wasn't aware I was doing any thing wrong. If I am, I will stop. Please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markh Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Is there some kind of prejudice or dislike of Big Blu on this site? I'm still kind of new so I don't know the history. I think they're great guys. Brian, You are a very impressive tool maker. I can't afford that hammer making kit you're selling, but would be very interested in purchasing the DVD. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I don't believe there's a problem with Big Blu per se but it's not okay to use the site for commercials. That's not the same as folk who make things for sale and mention it from time to time. Richard, rthibeau (sp?) for instance makes and sells hammers and mentions it from time to time. He just doesn't use the forum for advertising so nobody minds. Heck, I appreciate knowing who does what for sale so I can refer folk or let the wife know if there's something I'd like for a B'day, Christmas, etc. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 Thank you very much Mark. That set is the only spare set of hammer making tools I have. I really did not expect to sell it in this venue. What I am really trying to do is get others interested in making their own tools. I will sell my tools, but I am not in the tool making business. I'd like to share what I know, just like Alfred Habermann did. If it weren't for Alfred Habbermann, I wouldn't have considered making the things I make now. I've done alot of smithing and was all on my own and figured alot of things out, but when I went to my very first conference and someone asked me how I did something while I was forging. I had never tried to communicate what I was doing. I just did it. Anyway, I learned more from trying to explain it to someone than I had learned in the previous 15+ years of banging away at the anvil. And I have continued to learn more because I ask myself that same question every day, and I try and communcate it to anyone interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) Big Blu was ran off of here several times for promoting their products and you are capitalizing on the tailgate section and your still here? BB was in fact posting adds here, we have removed those as IFI does not accept advertising. A smith is allowed to use their URL to their personal or even business web site in their tag line, but another web site listed there will be removed. I must agree that it does seem there has been promotion from brianbrazealblacksmith and it has been discussed, a decision has not been made, as it has been in the tailgating forum. So more posting information for the good of everyone and less sales is a good idea. Edited February 28, 2009 by steve sells typos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Big Blu was ran off of here several times for promoting their products Big Blu was NOT "run off of here" even once and certainly not several times. Big Blu is in good standing on IForgeIron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I haven't tried to back read all of Brianb's posts but I see nothing on the original post that indicates he intending selling these, he was posting his design and rational behind it. Others started talking about selling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I think Brian`s idea was to tell us about and teach us about this design , not to market em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) Actually, if I remember correctly, there was another member that never missed a chance to pitch Big Blu along with a link to their(Big Blu's) sales site. That may have figured in that members removal from the site. But, that's just a guess. I agree, I didn't see this as selling, but more as an explanation of design and reasoning. Just because he posted it in the tailgating section doesn't mean he's advertising in the forum. Edited February 28, 2009 by keykeeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwin Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Brian, I always dreamed of taking one of Alfred Habermann's classes and I was saddened by his passing. Thank you for sharing your ideas, tooling, and experiences. It is good to pass on information and you learn more from it than anything else. It is easy to have ideas and theories without challenge, but discussing those ideas often reveals areas that could use refinement. I may try a hardy of your design, I can see where a hardy that locks in would come in handy. I have made hardies with curved edges and straight edges and which I like more depends on what I'm doing. Right now mine just has a very slight curve on it. I think it is when working flat bar that a flat topped hardy makes cutting it straight a little easier for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 Alwin, I usually don't cut over 2" of stock, no matter what profile [2"x2" square to 2"x 1/4'' rectangular]. For other more extreme profiles I would probably use other methods. Alfred would cut upto 1/4" plate with a handheld curved chisel less than 1" wide made from coil spring. He would lubricate the chisel with oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwin Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 If you can back hot 1/4 inch plate a sharp chisel will go through it quickly. What kind of oil did he use? I have cut 2" square on a hardy before but I don't want to do it that way again without a striker. It is much easier for me to put it on the anvil and use a set chisel. Even easier to use a handheld cutting tool under a power hammer. I am always a little entranced by the hand methods of blacksmithing so I do like to have things set up to make doing it the "hard way" as easy as possible even if I may use a power hammer for many things. There are so many things in forging that used to be intimidating and seemed like they'd take forever which now are easy and require very little time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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