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Help ID anvil


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1 hour ago, leonel p. said:

Hey, I'm new to this so can someone please help

Howdy from eastern Oklahoma and welcome to the forum!!!

Used anvil prices vary greatly on location, some places you’d be lucky to get $2 a pound, and other places it’s a bargin at $5 a pound,

 and the second thing is condition, if it’s crisp sharp never been used it’s worth more, if it’s missing half the face it’s worth scrap price, 

Blacksmiths are looking for a tool to use and won’t pay more for used then they can buy it new but antique collectors will pay a stupid amount if it’s something they want,

so it’s kinda hard to help you out with your question without knowing where your located and see a few pictures of the anvil in question 

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Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

Like Thomas said, put it on a bathroom scale for an accurate weight. As far as I know Vulcan anvils had the year and weight cast into the base. However the weight was in 100 pound increments. Mine has a 10 cast into it which indicates 100 lbs or more mine weighs 110 lb 20 would indicate 200 lbs or more 30 300 lbs or more and so on. The other number cast into them was the year of mfg. Mine has a 43 on the opposite side of the weight so it was made in 1943. However I don't think Vulcan made anvils in 1863 or 1963 so I would bet the 63 is the weight. As far as how much it would go for is dependent on where in the world it is located in and condition.

PS: To upload pictures while in the editor you will see a "paper clip with Drag files here to attach, or choose files." That is where you get the pictures from your device (computer or phone).

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To follow up on Irondragon's help for uploading pics, make sure the size isn't huge. Like, pictures I take on my phone are almost always too large so I have to send to myself in FB Messenger (FB will automatically reduce image size), then save the image from there and post that.

 

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2 hours ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

Howdy from eastern Oklahoma and welcome to the forum!!!

Used anvil prices vary greatly on location, some places you’d be lucky to get $2 a pound, and other places it’s a bargin at $5 a pound,

 and the second thing is condition, if it’s crisp sharp never been used it’s worth more, if it’s missing half the face it’s worth scrap price, 

Blacksmiths are looking for a tool to use and won’t pay more for used then they can buy it new but antique collectors will pay a stupid amount if it’s something they want,

so it’s kinda hard to help you out with your question without knowing where your located and see a few pictures of the anvil in question 

I live in the US specifically in South texas! Also here's the anvil in question. 

IMG-20221212-WA0002.jpg

2 hours ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

Like Thomas said, put it on a bathroom scale for an accurate weight. As far as I know Vulcan anvils had the year and weight cast into the base. However the weight was in 100 pound increments. Mine has a 10 cast into it which indicates 100 lbs or more mine weighs 110 lb 20 would indicate 200 lbs or more 30 300 lbs or more and so on. The other number cast into them was the year of mfg. Mine has a 43 on the opposite side of the weight so it was made in 1943. However I don't think Vulcan made anvils in 1863 or 1963 so I would bet the 63 is the weight. As far as how much it would go for is dependent on where in the world it is located in and condition.

PS: To upload pictures while in the editor you will see a "paper clip with Drag files here to attach, or choose files." That is where you get the pictures from your device (computer or phone).

Hello! Thanks so much for the help in uploading pictures! I am located in the USA specifically south texas. here's a picture of the anvil btw

IMG-20221212-WA0002.jpg

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50 minutes ago, leonel p. said:

I live in the US specifically in South texas!

We won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to add it in your profile.

As far as the anvil I can't read the logo, are you sure it says Vulcan. It looks a little different from all the Vulcan's I've seen. Horn is slimmer and more pointed and the base looks a little different. Here are pictures of my 110 pounder. No number on the rear foot under the heel and note the 10 under the logo. Also the logo is round as opposed to mine which is oval.

100_1801.thumb.JPG.e3d201984016bad7d27e5ac7e8a9e5aa.JPG

100_1800.thumb.JPG.622e8e2e3f0c40284a3fb71da56f9809.JPG

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Welcome aboard Leonel, glad to have you. Telling people where you are in a post isn't going to stick in our memories once we open another one. If you put it in the header it'll be there and easy to find on every one of your posts. And ease up on quoting, there's no need when you're responding directly to a post directly pervious. For the most part if you wish to address one person of several their login name works perfectly. If you need to pick out a sentence of word to carry a meaning or ask a specific question or maybe reply to a post that's weeks or longer old, it's time to use the quote. 

That's a darned nice looking anvil, it looks almost new condition. A wire brush to clean up the badge on the side would sure make it easier to see and read the name. 

Whatever the market in your area it should pull pretty close to top dollar for a Vulcan, if it's not an Arm and Hammer that is.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Looks like a Vulcan to me but agree with Irondragon that the horn is very slim compared to my 100#.  Also agree with Frosty in that it looks unused. 

Could the 63 mean 1963 and that it had a different pattern than my 1920 model?

I think they still made anvils up to the late 60's

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I would expect a Vulcan in that condition, in Texas, should sell easily at 2 or 3 $/LB to a smith that wants to use it (as long as that is dirt, not Bondo or a weld on the top surface in the "sweet spot").  You could always list it for 4 $/LB, and hope for the best.  Anything above that and you will likely have to wait or get lucky.  Note that Vulcans are typically viewed as one of the lower tier manufacturers.  Would sell for more (particularly in that excellent condition) if a Fisher, Peter Wright, Arm and Hammer, Trenton, Brooks, or Hay Budden (just to name a few of the more desirable common anvils here in the States).

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  • 4 weeks later...

WElcome aboard from 7500' (2286 m) in SE Wyoming, USA.  Glad to have another Russki here.  Alexandr from St. Petersburg is one of our most skilled smiths.

I can't help you with identification of your anvil but I will say that is a very serious anvil.  I hope it is where you want it in your shop since any movement will not be easy.

"Byt hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Рад видеть тебя! Это наковальня из старого железнодорожного депо. Очень хотелось бы хотя бы примерно определить страну и время изготовления. Сбоку и снизу есть квадратные отверстия. Но небольшие пузыри на подошве наковальни говорят о том, что она отлита из стали. Есть повреждения наковальни, над ней много работали. На ютубе есть тест звонка.

Glad to see you! It's an anvil from an old railroad depot. I would very much like to at least roughly determine the country and the time of manufacture. There are square holes on the side and bottom. But small bubbles on the sole of the anvil indicate that it is cast from steel. There is damage to the anvil, a lot of work has been done on it. On YouTube there is a call test.

 

 

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Here in the USA there are anvils where the base were cast steel that were then forge welded, (or later arc welded) to the upper half; giving a hybrid look to them and yes location does matter.  If you were looking at used cars locally; would they be more likely to be a Lada or a Ford even though both can be found?

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In Soviet times, there were two ways to get imported equipment. The first is lend-lease. I think that's how I got my big mousehole. Mainly from USA and UK. The second way is the export of equipment from Germany, after ww2. Thus, most of the European equipment came to us. In st. petersburg there are often anvils from finland, as it is nearby. There are many more nameless manufacturers of inexpensive anvils, with cast iron bodies and hard faceplates. Or without it. Generally of average quality, and made before 1917. The anvils of the USSR period, made at local factories, do not differ in variety. All these models are familiar to me.

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Don't forget smuggling in of Western European & American tech; I once worked "post wall fall" with a fellow whose previous job in DDR was the removal of "evidence" that the computer systems they worked on were smuggled tech. Anyway good to know that there are some crossover tools available.  I envy you that anvil and I'm working on downsizing my smithing equipment!

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My familiarity with rail road shops is they cast what they need if possible, The Lancaster pattern swage block I have was cast in the Anchorage RR shop in the late 60s and I know of two anvils that were cast in that shop and one each from two other RR shops. The one RR shop cast anvil I've laid hands on is hardened from the face down like my Soderfors but looked a lot like a Peter Wright. 

That's a beautiful anvil Vlodemar and she sounds good. It's hard to evaluate the bearing rebound test from your video as your drop point is out of frame. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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