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VEVOR Anvil's


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Well, I guess that is one draw back to buying the 132lb Anvil....  that thing in the wooden package is HEAVY...  Fed Ex just got here and had to ask for my help in off loading it????? So happy it is here...  once I get my anvil stand made and the anvil dressed and mounted I will post pictures!

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  • 5 weeks later...

I guess I'm joining the Vevor anvil club too. An ebay seller had the 88lb ones for about $103 which is the best I've seen in years. I plan to do some kind of build-up or mill & plug kind of operation on the round hole (i.e. make it a useful pritchel) and was thinking it wouldn't hurt to weld a bunch of steel in the arched void thing between the feet to add some mass. I'll just take my time with the welding so it's a bunch of short beads with cooling breaks in-between so it won't migrate significant heat into the anvil - certainly won't heat up the top face, which is the only thing hardened on these things anyway.

I think the added mass underneath should bring it up to 110lb. or so and I can't see any point to having a big air gap right under the heart of the anvil... other than cheaper sticker price.It may dampen some of the ring too. The legs kind of make it a thick tuning fork. Let's maybe turn it into a solid block instead?

Hopefully this cheap price doesn't mean they are rejected soft faces and massive casting void surplus or something. Evidently I'll be able to determine that when (if) it arrives tomorrow as scheduled.

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Vinito, wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to add weight by welding on some chunks of steel in the arch rather than building up weight with multiple welding beads?  You could avoid heat issues altogether by drilling and tapping holes and bolting the weight on.  The only advantage I can see of building up welding beads would be that you may be incresing the structural strength of the legs but I have never heard of a Vevor anvil breaking a leg.  Hand hammering just does not exert that kind of pressure.

Also, I think I'd try to use it as is and see if it is walking or wiggling around on you in use.  Then, it is time to think about adding mass, not before.  Attached to a solid base it may be just fine as is.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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41 minutes ago, George N. M. said:

Vinito, wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to add weight by welding on some chunks of steel in the arch

Yes, much easier and also cheaper, but that's what I meant. I guess I didn't explain it well, but all I meant by "a bunch of short beads" is that I would weld the chunks to the arch with short beads and that it will surely still take a bunch of them before the chunks are firmly affixed and solid. I was trying to emphasize that short beads with cool-off breaks in between would hardly raise the temp up very much at all as I want to take zero chance of drawing down what little hardness is provided in the top face.

I think I'm going to go ahead and count on adding the mass partly because I've never heard anyone complain about an anvil being too heavy, but also because I fully intend to "fix" the thing that bothers me the most about these anvils, namely the round hole not being a functional pritchel. So while I'm at it, why not add some significant mass right under the heart of the sweet spot?

Can I point out the elephant in the room? This offset round "pritchel" thing could easily be addressed by whomever is casting these things with a quarter pound more steel and a slight tweak of the form they're using and every customer would heartily applaud the move. Why do they keep cranking these things out like this? They've even added more sizes over the years, one after the other, and simply scaled this continued goofiness. Are they that isolated from feedback that the word never reaches someone there who could tweak the foundry pattern? Seems like a no-brainer!

People are strange

Edit to add: You (George) may very well be correct about maybe correcting with a solid base instead. I feel like 88lb. is going to be light for what I want to do, but I think I will do as you suggest and try it out first. And before welding mass to the arch, maybe set the feet of the anvil atop a big chunk of steel mass and see if that makes it good enough instead. Maybe I'll do both! I've seen the importance of anvil/base combination mentioned here several times and I still succumbed to forgetting consideration of the base. Thanks for the reminder

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I bought the 132 lb Anvil, and I am happy with it, other than a few miss strikes from my inexperience in smithing, the face is holding up wonderfully.  Granted the few marks on the face are from me missing my mark and striking hard on the face.  Most used anvils I have seen have these same types of marks... I am sure one day I will have to replace the anvil or mill down the face...  I have the same roller set up that Purple did, and I am making an anvil bridge to make a level surface to use the pritchel.  You start spending a lot of money on a cheap anvil,  then you might as well buy a more expensive one.   Given my choice I would order a brand new 300 lb or larger, my pocket book has me firmly in the VEVOR range...  so this is what I use, and I am loving it as is, honestly dress the edges, and if you need a smaller pritchel, then make a anvil bridge and make a punch pritchel on the bridge.   Then when punching holes you drop the bridge into the hardy and punch your holes with out damaging the anvil face.  

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This hit me kinda funny... Tracking my anvil progress (Fedex - uuugh) and predictably, it got hung up yesterday and it's officially delayed.

How much you wanna bet the reason for the delay is that the truck turned left or something and it shot sideways out the flimsy Vevor cardboard box, so Fedex now has to look around for their dusty can of zip-ties and slap a label tag to one of the anvil's holes?

I dunno, but after watching a few videos reviews, I can't not see this like a little Keystone Cops movie in my head and it makes me giggle a little.

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You’re only going to add a few pounds at most by welding on additional pieces. The point of diminishing returns for that project is before you even start.  
 

Let the Vevor be what it is: a light duty anvil for small pieces, perfectly adequate for the majority of projects a beginner is likely to tackle. Attach it solidly to a heavy stand; don’t waste money on extra steel, electricity, or consumables; and put your time and energy into some actual smithing. 

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5 hours ago, lary said:

... you might want to have a wheelbarrow handy to catch it when they slide it out of the truck.

I was prepared with apparati for catching the toss, but pleasantly surprised to discover that when I woke up, they had already delivered it to my porch. I reviewed the recorded video and it showed a little bitty feller just carrying it across the yard and fairly gently setting it down. Also, note that today is Sunday. For my address anyway, Fedex has a history with most deliveries of the tracking saying that it's "out for delivery" only to update the tracking late evening to say that it's been delayed, so color me amazed.

Also, a cursory look tells me that the quality of the casting isn't bad at all. I'll check it out closer in the coming days.

So far, so good

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This will be my last hijacking of Arkans's thread, but thought adding some feedback on these Acciaio anvils from Vevor might help posterity?

By the way, we all assume these are made "in the same factory in China", but I read the other day someone claiming these are cast somewhere in the Czech republic. Anyone else ever hear that? anyway...

Stripping the paint for a close look at the casting reveals that it's not quite as good as I thought, but still pretty good. The area under the arch has the typical filler but of course that doesn't matter at all. Plus on the bottom of the horn under the round hole has a substantial void, but also somewhere between little and zero practical consequence.

Otherwise my vote is a positive. I slid a curved file over the top and it didn't want to scratch it (pretty much just skated) and on the horn it only wanted to grip it a little, so I wouldn't say the horn is "soft" exactly, just not as hard as the top. Nothing new here, just reiteration.

Me being a machinist, I wouldn't say the top has a great finish. It's flat and has been ground, but it wasn't done well and has a subtle texture that might transfer to your steel depending. But most of the time you wouldn't notice. I have access to a nice surface grinder and I might just clean that up. But honestly I'm just nitpicking and doubt I'll bother messing with it even though I could do it pretty easily, if that tells you anything. It's pretty good even if I wouldn't say it's "great".

couple of quick pics in case the data is useful for others. Probably a half-hour with wire brush & abrasives.

vevorb.jpg.43188b135218b40c67df398da03dec66.jpg

vevor.thumb.jpg.c74ed5cf124726c145226f5d5ff45361.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

I like my anvil, i have had a few miss strikes and marred my surface a little, but i am new to blacksmithing and that is expected.. but as a whole i am happy with my 132 lb anvil.  right now it is getting a good coating of rust due to non use, but can touch it up with the sander once i get back to forging.  Mandatory overtime at work has kept me from swinging hammers the last two months, that and the weather... But hope to be back at it soon.

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DO NOT use a sander as it removes metal.  Instead use a wire brush, and lightly at that.  Then give everything a coating of BLO (boiled linseed oil) except the face. A light coating of ATF (automatic  transmission fluid) for the face and top of the horn.  The ATF will not effect the hot metal.  The BLO dry faster if there is air movement. 

BLO can be applied over light rust.   BLO is a good way to protect your tools, tongs, and the metal of garden and other tools such as shovels, mattocks, axes, etc. 

 Hammering hot metal on the face will make it shine.  A light coating of ATF when you finish will create a barrier so oxygen can not get to the metal and create rust.

Lay the application rags out to dry before throwing them away.

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