John McPherson Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 What he said. Localized heating to cherry red with a plumber's propane torch, then cooling in still air, is usually enough to draw the temper in the area where the weld will go before welding. That means planning the job carefully, or heating sections in place as you go. Check with a file to see if it works. I have seen it used cold to stiffen junk trailers, and heard the welds snap as it cooled. I doubt it made it twenty miles down the road without falling off. Bed frame rail is tempered, and a different alloy and shape from standard mild steel angle iron. A PITA to drill without spot annealing first, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Sounds like I might be better drilling it and doing a bolt together instead of welding. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Drilling hardened bed frame can be....Well let's just say if the bit is cutting don't let up till you're through.....I'd just weld it with 7018 rod but you may not have that option... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesman5656 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 OK. So this guy comes into the lumber yard I manage, walks into my office and says, "I know you are a blacksmith. I have something you might want. Been sittin on my garage floor, and I have kicked it for the last time." Walks me out to his truck, opens the gate and says "$100 and we can lift into your truck." My mouth said "OK" before I had even thought about it. Comes in at about 125 lbs, and is in EXCELLENT shape.What exactly is that thing? It looks like it could be used as a die or something to shape metal but is that what it is in actuality or would it just be good for that? Sorry if I sound ignorant, but my smithing knowledge is definitely in its infancy stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcostello Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I have tried using cheap carbide ceramic and tile drills to cut hard steel, worked ok, only 2 or 3 holes though. Would not be pleasant if they broke off though.:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 That is a Swage Block used to shape hot metal on to various shapes instead of making individual swages that fit in the hardy hole of your anvil. Some folks use them every day in their shop and some use them once a year if that. Depends on what you are doing and how you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesman5656 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 That is a Swage Block used to shape hot metal on to various shapes instead of making individual swages that fit in the hardy hole of your anvil. Some folks use them every day in their shop and some use them once a year if that. Depends on what you are doing and how you do it. Thanks. It looks like it would be very useful to bend or shape roundstock for sure. Probably beats the heck out of my method of just heating it and either bending it by hand or with vise and pliars for certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elemental Metal Creations Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 What exactly is that thing? It looks like it could be used as a die or something to shape metal but is that what it is in actuality or would it just be good for that? Sorry if I sound ignorant, but my smithing knowledge is definitely in its infancy stage. You are correct that is what it is designed for. It is called a swedge block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 New swage blocks are expensive; old ones can be free, cheap, expensive or very expensive depending... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Watch out for the junk made in Mexico, sometimes the price is very high for very poor quality material made to look very old. Same for anvils from Mexico. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Well I stopped by the scrapyard Saturday and found some "new" stock cheap to go in my rack. I also picked up a good handful of RR bolts as the scrappers are cleaning the tracks off like a horde of locusts and so I expect to need to get them before they all get sent to China. Didn't get to do a good perusal as the were loading up cars into the crusher and topping them off with scrap from the pile and everytime the guy reved up the big manipulator I tended to focus on where it was going as I do NOT wish to go to China right now even if the trip was *free* One thing I did spend my hard earned allowance on was that they had an old windcharger. Just the generator and the rear vane and pivot. Insulation was shot on the wire---would probably need to be re-wound and if so replacing the bearings would be a good idea; but I couldn't stand to think of it getting crushed and scrapped. Told my wife I grew up hearing stories about my Mother's childhood where all the electricity they had was a wind charger that charged batteries that ran the *radio* in the farm house. If I get it going again I'd probably use it to run a string of Christmas lights on a *small* short tower. On the plus side I had forged a large set of stainless butchering hooks for a friend who was recently given the front half of a trophy bison and now have a dozen pounds of bison in the fridge and my daughter gave me some bear burger to go with it. I foresee a whopping big pot of chile in my future! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holzkohle Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Went back to MS to visit younger brother weekend before last and on Sat In Vicksburg found a Champion 400, rough but now operational. On the return home on Monday picked up a Swedish Sodorfors 100#, edges rough but face flat, and an early Peter Wright, 94#, edges rough , face flat. Then on Wed in Columbus,Ga got an Acme (Trenton) 100# in very good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Saturday, Monday, Wednesday were you just loafing on Friday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holzkohle Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Thomas. Actually on Fri Dec 10, I did find a Champion portable forge with a rectangular fire box, a type of friction drive to the blower, seized, and missing the legs. The only problem was the price:$195. I let that one stay. Where I bought the two anvils, the owner had a 70# Fisher,1891, in excellent condition; found it the day before at a scrap yard or dump. Not for sale. As you have said the anvils are out there, just have to look for them and sometimes have a bit of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Seems like the more you go looking for luck the more you find as compared to sitting at home waiting for luck to find you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 So I learned today that the scrapyard workers are sympathetic to the plight of amateur metalworkers and artists, but can't do anything about it. They wanted to sell me a scraper to a snow plow (and I think I have a use for much of it) It spark tested nice and ground down quick so it was likely workable. Much of both edges were worn away, so it had a hard life...but alas the management said "NO!" I gave them my old, not working right but still working, TV, and it was set up in the break room before I left! I did score 4 rather large stainless socket head cap bolts. One I will make into a hex swage for tool ends. not sure about the other 3. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayden H Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) One of my friends brought me a round ball. I thought it was a bearing when he handed it to me, but bearing don't have serial numbers, nor do they have 2 distinct holes above the serial numbers, or rattle when shaked.... I'm very leary to beat on it in fear its an artillery shell momento from a war. No Pics, but the its got 2 holes of slightly different sizes, and the holes appear to be on somehting that treaded into the ball. NUmbers that I could find, are 726K and 128MM with the numbers and holes having a yellow residue in tehm. (Paint not sulfur best I can tell). It appears to also possibly been turned on a lathe to make it more sperical. Any help here? Edited December 23, 2011 by Hayden H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Here are a couple goodies I am finally getting set up, a treadle hammer, a colonial anvil about 140# and a huge railroad forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48willys Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Picked up a Miller Bobcat 225g this week. Been looking for a while for a gas powered one, It sure will be nice not getting that surprise when I look at the power bill,lol :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Fleamarket report Socorro NM: 2 spud wrenches, 1 socket chisel, 1 craftsman phillipshead screwdriver, large size: US$7 total. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshua.M Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 just got home, i got 4 sets of tongs, 2 farriers, 1 large set that look to be for making hammers under a power hammer and a set for small round stock a 10lb sledge with a cross pein, and my favorite, a stake anvil that is about 20" tall and 45" long with a nice big horn (pics to come) Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I haven't decided to bring it home or send it off to China.......It's been outside for a few years but everything moves freely except for the cross feed.......the ways are a bit rusty but Colorado rust is more like a patina than other parts of the country.....I brought my one ton two wheel trailer to pick it up today and I'd forgotten how big it is 16''swing 6' bed...3,000lbs, so the 4 wheel rig is being pressed into service on Mon... ..The flat belt broke and the ninnies couldn't figure out how to fix it so they bought a new one....ninnies can be useful, I hope.........What say you fine folks, should it go north 40 miles or west 7 thousand?......It was a freebie.....Oh, can anyone tell if it's set up for doing tapers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Sure looks like a taper rig on the back of it. Free you can flip or keep after it is running... Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I say it's definitely a keeper, Bruce. Phil's right, looks to be a complete taper attachment. Even if you don't use it, you can part it out on ebay. If you decide to bring it back to life, PM me and I'll hook you up with some documentation. It would be a shame to see that American made cast iron and steel melted down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Thanks for the positive replies I was hoping for. I was thinking of removing the rust on the critical surfaces using soda blast, would that be wise?.........A friend told me since it has been on the ground for years the bed/frame would likely be tweaked an would take years to correct itself on a flat surface....Any truth to that? If I do use it I won't be going after any aerospace contracts...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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