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Rail track swage block


Machine shop

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Hi all. I have had an orphan bit of rail track in the shed that I keep stubbing my toe on so on a wet Saturday I decided to make a swage block out of it.

Currently just in the roughing out stage. I am cutting it using indexible carbide tools, but it is pretty tough and so slow going.

It will have 3 off 90 deg grooves, 3 off 180 deg radii grooves and a larger radius.

 

 

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I am currently waiting for a carbide ball end mill to arrive in the post for finishing the radii

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Looks good. I have a chunk of rail I wanted to mill the same way some years back, but my machinist friend came back and said the metal was too tough for his tooling. I deduce that either your rail is softer or your tooling is better!

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I can't speak to machining, but it is certainly possible to shape a piece of track with an angle grinder. If you go slow enough, you can even do it without significant changes to the hardness. One could conceivably anneal such a piece before shaping and then harden it afterwards, but even an unhardened piece of track (or one whose temper is "ruined" by overheating while grinding) would be plenty hard -- certainly harder than the metal being forged.

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Rail is only induction hardened a few thousandths on the rail surface and later work hardens in use but its all on the contact surface. It's easy to run it to black heat and bury it to slow cool IF normalized isn't good enough. It's really pretty civilized stuff to work with, treat it like 1085 simple steel and you're in the ball park. Even the "high" manganese Rail steel doesn't have enough to really effect the heat treatment methods. 

I can't say  for rail outside the USA and who knows what little independent rail lines used nor crane rails, etc. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Leather Bill, the answer is yes. Place said rail on a fire safe serface, build a bonfire and leave it to cook and then cool in the ashes. Make sure to take the coals up over the rail when the fire burns down. Now you should have a fully annexed hunk of rail. 
you can use hack saws, files, angle grinders etc. to shape the rail. 
 

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A carbide ball ended slot drill arrived in the post so I could progress carving some radii into the rail. I still need to take a burr and clean the radii up and then polish with some abrasive wheels.
The other picture shows the swage block mounted on the anvil using a hold down through the Pritchel hole.

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Very cool way to make a swage block! I suggest you weld some steel to the feet so that it slots over the sides of the anvil, that will make it unable to rotate on the anvil face, and together with the holdfast will probably make a better hold. I have done this too with a sort of hardy hole since my anvil doesn't have one.\

~Jobtiel

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Great project Machine Shop! Useful size, some swage blocks get really big and hard to maneuver.

I wanted to show off a Rail Swage that followed me home a while back. Friend was moving their shop from Oakland to Alameda. I showed up for the garage sale and took home a bunch of scroll jigs and this welded rail swage (I think it's a welded piece of rail)

About 12 inches by roughly 5 inches square so movable. Some flat surfaces, a square hole, depressions and grooves. A visiting smith who's a welding inspector was impressed (my welding, not so much)

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Quick update, I have now smoothed out the milling steps using a carbide burr. Btw if you have not discovered carbide burrs for die grinders I recommend you do. They are much more suitable for any significant metal removal than the abrasive points traditionally used in due grinding. Clearly these have there place and that is where I will go next to polish up the surface.

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I finished the block off today. Welded on some tabs so it registers in the top of the anvil as suggested by jobtiel.

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23 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Not poopoo’n your work MC. I wish I had your toys!

I am very lucky that I have an understanding wife who lets me haul this old iron and give it a good home!

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