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I Forge Iron

Leather Bill

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  • Location
    N. Central Tx
  • Interests
    Vintage trucks,cars and farm tractors. Woodworking

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  1. After that tutorial on using the floor flange I have to agree there's no reason for using anything other than iron pipe and fittings. I have seen the flange mentioned for alighnment but never understood how. I visualized the nipple connecting flange to tee both while alighning and drilling. I must agree it's "silly easy" and therefore other fittings would be more trouble than they are worth. "Well that xxxxxx Cuban cigar got me riled up" ,otherwise I would have grasped it first time around.
  2. Thomas you jumped this rabbit so if this is laughable it's your fault for planting thoughts in my head that get out of control. What about 3/4x1x1 copper or pvc tee which are uniform so can be measured to perfectly center drill?
  3. Of those posted so far this is closest to what was commonly used when small squares were fed in Texas. The point is at correct angle but loop shouldn't start to curve back/offset to rear. Another twice to three times as long is used when loading bales on trailer. Short hook in end of bale closest to you and long hook on far end. Wood handle look's and feel's good but a 3/8ths pipe is much faster to install and in real life no one haul's hay without thick gloves so feel is no different. Wait until handle is finished before drawing point out and curving. Much simpler to bend hook 90* to handle than keeping handle 90* to hook as handle is bent. Try one without welding tag end of rod to shaft. I've seen dozens used for years without being welded. Probably depends on steel. You don't want pipe to swivel because that will increase arm motion required to "set" the point in bale. While rod is soft and last bend is made at pipe end, give it a hard blow to tighten friction between rod and pipe. Leather chinks or apron are recommended add on sales if you happen to be into leather work.
  4. We never fixed it because that required buying parts. Transplanted engine and tranny to a different car. That was a good thing with cars built in late 30s to mid 50s,parts were interchangeable between cars from same mfgrs. It was a fertile time for tinkers but a large % of population where I grew up were farm labors that couldn't afford tools. My friend and I were fortunate to have access to tools and mentors. Our families were poor by comparison to those living in cities but field workers were poor beyond what the poorest of poor are today. You might say poverty in the region worked to me and my pal's benifit. When a car could no longer be relyed on, owner didn't have the means to fix it, funds to have it fixed,and no credit,they were forced to buy cars from used car dealers who wouldn't give them much on trade in. We bought cars for what dealer offered for trade. My older brother and I lamented cars we sold but a 40 Ford Coupe was one we regretted most .
  5. My friend and I were in "biginner class"but not at school,they were self taught in his dad's barn. Lots of good memories from resurrecting flat head Fords and stove bolt 6 cyl chevys. His dad alowed us to use his tools but would only answer questions we went to the house to ask. On occasion we talked him into coming to inspect something. After we welded the steering from another vehicle onto a 41 chevy it would turn left when steered right and vs vs. His dad just shook is head, laughed and went back to the house when we asked how to fix it. Turned out to be kinda intertaining when we and our friends drove it around country roads.
  6. When you scratch a piece of rusty steel from the dirt and think "I wonder what alloys this has" instead of "I best throw this in trash before it damage's a tire." Have to,old boots no longer have soles.
  7. Raises a question about lasers pointed at aircraft. If lost or injured could you rely on FFA coming to investigate if an aircraft was flashed with laser? Surely they would come running if more than a couple of planes reported laser strikes. Next question. What percent of people would recconize SOS code transmited by light or sound? I expect very few boaters,hickers and motorest would catch on if casually incountered.
  8. Mom and dad's familys both moved to Texas from Arkansas where they claimed when those old Razorbacks killed hogs they didn't waste anything but the squeal. Mom's lived near New Hope and Dad's near Caddo Gap.
  9. Didn't the old man who gave you his anvil because it had excessive rebound have the same problem Frosty?
  10. I wager that was in large because your old man was so dumb while you were growing up then became much smarter about the time you turned 30.
  11. Tools with grainy finish like that tend to be low quility. I've been digging for various reasons many years and never saw a tool like that. I would call it a mattock and mattocks come in many configurations. Most popular are pick mattock and cutter mattock. Handle hole is oval in every mattock I've seen.
  12. $200 for a nozzle. What a rip off. I'd wait if possible. Meanwhile,use pre-heat on cutting tips to braze. I often braze with cutting tips because I'm in a hurry or too lazy to switch out. I never tried something small like jewelry so that might be difficult. I have several propane brazing tips,they look the same as acetylene except for a reccess where flame start's. Apparently propane tips are like NA forge burners in needing something to hold flame when not in the forge. I have owned the majority of my gas torches for decades and had no idea tips were so expensive. I've had cutting tips reconditioned until worn out and replacements cost the same as acetylene. If you aren't pleased brazing with cutting tips,I think you can find some used tips and handle for less than $100. When I gas weld,all I do is move fuel regulator to acetylene bottle and put an acetylene tip on handle. One could do the same for brazing but someone here suggested bad things will happen so you might ask an expert or over at Welding Web first. Glad you got your set up. Remember to hold preheat a little farthar away from work than acetylene when cutting.
  13. I always have trouble with that. The smallest graduation on my Folding wood ruler is 0.063
  14. "(it was dumb I know but I won’t be doing it again any time soon LOL). " Oh well,if you don't spend any more time messing with the next one than you did this one you will not have wasted enough time to worry over.
  15. I have two pieces of advice for you,one that you have already cast aside as not applical to your situation and violated the other. None the less I'll attempt to persuade you. Don't add the issues related to 7018 (I should say"precieved issues"because the issues you will experience are only in your head). Use those old 6011 to practice,at this stage they aren't effecting your bead one bit and if you still have or find more old one's after you become profecient,they might effect your bead by 0.03%. Futhermore,only an expert can tell by looking at a bead ran with 7018 whether it was wet or new. It's more difficult to hold an arc with 7018 compared to 6011 so wait til all your other issues have been worked out before running them. You say you don't know any welders in Austin,well there are hundreds and it's time to get aquainted with one. He will be happy to help you at his normal hourly rate and that will be money well spent. Look at it like this. How long would it require teaching someone to drive via the net compared to in the seat beside them? You might think about tack welding something that you need togeather then have the pro look over your shoulder while you weld it up.
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