Doesn't have to be current production.  What country do you think made the finest anvils?  I've heard some say that Swedish anvils are among the best.  I know Germany also had some of the finest anvils made.  I hear a lot about English made anvils, especially Peter Wright's.  Personally, I've been wanting to add a John Brooks to my inventory, since I don't have any that are English made.

You want to compare say wrought iron anvils from days gone by against todays anvils cast from say H-13, or anvils produced from 1880 to 1900 against anvils made 2000 to 2022?  Measured against what rule?  The anvil shape and purpose must be considered.  Country of manufacture is to general to be of value.

I was speaking in terms of general blacksmithing.  All aspects considered.  Rebound, structural integrity of the anvil material, how well the shape lends itself to general blacksmithing, etc...  This isn't necessarily a comparison of anvils.  This is more of an opinion oriented thing, and can be based on many things, including user specific details.  People tend to have their favorites for one reason or another.  This is just a chance to share those favorites, and the reasons. 

 

To have a favorite you have to have used at least two anvils to compare one to the other. Still too general a request. 

We already did that on this section of the site.  6,600 posts

Anvil Reviews by brand

an excellent question----however, my input will be limited---almost all my experience is almost exclusive to US makers---I do have an old Hill and a Wilkinson-----both need a bit of TLC and havent seen much use.

Hill and Wilkinson, both made in Birmingham, England.  I haven't had the opportunity to use either.  It's my understanding that Birmingham was the old English equivalent of Pittsburg.

8 hours ago, Glenn said:

 

To have a favorite you have to have used at least two anvils to compare one to the other. Still too general a request. 

We already did that on this section of the site.  6,600 posts

Anvil Reviews by brand

I seriously doubt you'll find many topics here that haven't been repeated.  I thought it was a good thing to stimulate conversation.  However, if it's something that goes against forum rules, or it bothers you otherwise, delete it.  

Out of my anvils the Sisco is just slightly better then my Columbian, but my diy post anvil made from a hydraulic breaker is right up there with them. 

That's just way too general a question for a meaningful answer. It's like asking which flies better a Zeppelin or the SR-71. There are hundreds of potential variables, none of which you specify.

A skilled smith can do better work with a stone hammer on a boulder than an untalented smith can on the best equipment on Earth.

Frosty The Lucky.

I like the question----anecdotal answers are often much more helpful.

fwiw----my wilkinson had a good 3 inches of  its horn lopped off-----frankly been afraid to ask for "anecdotal" responses as to what others would do with it and a possible nose job.

Thanks, yt12!  I would just use it "as is".  One other possible solution, would be to drill a hole in the end of the horn, then add a piece of tool steel shaped however you like.  However, it depends on the composition of that part of the anvil, as to whether it can be drilled or not.

Thats one of the options i thought of-----would be curious-----im sure a number of options have been tested---a prosthetic welded on, built up weld, grind a new profile----wonder how the restorers felt about their fix........

  Anecdotal - I fixed the gas tank on my 9n Ford tractor with jb-weld, I bet it would hold that horn on for a while.  Glenn & Frosty know best.

I'm not sure of the best way to affix it to the original part of the horn, but I think welding it would take the temper out of the steel.  Tool steel needs to be heated before it's welded, and then has to be re-tempered if necessary.  It could probably be welded by an experienced stick welder with the right rod.  For instance, cast iron welding requires a rod with a high nickel content, such as a 7018.  Before I went the welding route, I would explore other options like maybe an interference fit of some sort, or possibly pinning it.

Baring cast high carbon steel anvils, horns were neither high carbon nor hardened. Most cast HC anvils I'm aware of have the temper drawn further on the horns. Do NOT quote me on that though it's just what I've heard and the horn on my Soderfors isn't particularly hard.

Frosty The Lucky.

If you're correct, then maybe a decent welder could rebuild the horn.

Maybe it's a good place to talk about specific anvil patterns and what your favorite is instead of the specific anvil manufacturers.

i do believe Wilkinsons are all solid ------i should probably start a new thread and post a photo ----- see if anyone has any hits or misses doing a horn rebuild job----Malleous,didnt mean to hijack your forum-------

19 hours ago, Jobtiel1 said:

Maybe it's a good place to talk about specific anvil patterns and what your favorite is instead of the specific anvil manufacturers.

More often than not, anvil patterns will follow right along with the country from which they were manufactured.  This is especially true for German, French, Italian, and British anvils.

16 hours ago, yt12 said:

i do believe Wilkinsons are all solid ------i should probably start a new thread and post a photo ----- see if anyone has any hits or misses doing a horn rebuild job----Malleous,didnt mean to hijack your forum-------

No worries at all, yt12.  However, you would probably be more likely to get more exposure on it, if it had it's own thread.

I have a "west" brand anvil. Only paperwork i can find of them is a newspaper add from the 1930s I believe stating theire anvils being "solid cast vanadium steel". That is all i know about the history of "west" brand anvils so someone please enlighten me. The rebound on it is 90%+ in the sweet spot. I've never forged on a Swedish anvil but wouldn't trade my west for a Swedish anvil of twice its weight. 

I have 4 PW ranging from 94 pounds to 225 and they work pretty good 

I’ve got one William foster that’s a basket case so I can’t really give a review on it,

Also I’ve got a mystery two horn that I think might be a mouse hole but I haven’t worked on it, 

ive had a Trenton in the past I really liked

the PW are all dinged up with some chips nicks and the edges are pretty ruff but still they all have excellent rebound,

would I say they are they best anvils? Maybe not the best ever made but I like working on them

 

I've never used a PW, but I see them all the time.  Most of them seem to have lots of edge chipping.  Maybe that's because they tend to be harder?  If that's true, I would assume people like them because they have good rebound.

Hey TW, how basket case is your William Foster?   Mine is an 1828 stamped missing the heel and 90% of the face---I got it thinking of trying a "traditional" refacing of it.  Mr Postman suggested I weld the new face to a slab of real wrought iron first and then do a wrought iron to wrought iron weld.  He said that the WF anvils are generally a low grade WI in construction.  (I also plan to make a "fur trade knife" from that last little bit of 1828 steel!)

On 3/12/2022 at 12:20 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Hey TW, how basket case is your William Foster

It’s a complete 1844 but there’s hairline cracks all through the body, absolutely no ring whatsoever and rebound is about as good as pine lumber lol

Heat to forge welding temps and compress from all sides---just like an atomic bomb!

I don’t think it would be worth the fuel or effort 

it’s just a “antique” decoration around the shop people enjoy seeing