April 2Apr 2 Larry, don’t give up on the flat dies to quickly. With some technique and practice, you can draw stock pretty quickly, it also gives more options for tooling. I have several handled stop blocks for when I’m really targeting a dimension and that can really help, but the big help is having a large flatter. That way you can take pretty dramatic hits drawing down, back off as you getting close, and finish with the flatter. Sometimes I’ll drop/bolt drawing saddles on, but usually only for really heavy drawing (like 2” round 52100 to knife stock sizes, i got a bunch of that stock for nothing). Other times I’ll clamp “L” shaped stop blocks to the lower die. So many options with flat dies… Keep it fun, David
April 2Apr 2 Though just to throw it out there, connecting a motor wired for 220 to a 110 source would result in no lyrics. A previous owner could even have wired a 110-type outlet for 220, so the plug on the motor isn't necessarily conclusive.
April 2Apr 2 It's wired for 220 and connected to 220 outlet. Motor specs: HP: 3; RPM: 3450; HZ: 60; LO.V.: 230; PH: 1; DUTY: SPCL; FR: h56; A: 12.0 C TYPE: K; INSUL. CLASS: BR; SER. FACT.: SPCL CODE: F; THERMALLY PROTECTED: MANUAL Running on 30A 220 outlet run from panel with 10-3 wire.
April 3Apr 3 I will never do this again , made mistake , I punched hole through leaf Spring drifted eye there and again made another lead Spring for blade. Eye is made in European style , it is where one part is like oval and other part of eye is squarish.
April 3Apr 3 David, thanks for the advice and encouragement, I am clearly short on both technique and practice, but that just means I've lots of opportunities ahead! A flatter is another thing for the list... --Larry
April 3Apr 3 natkova, how were you doing the weld between the eye section and the blade? Maybe it's the photo, but that looks highly unsafe. 16 hours ago, Shainarue said: removed the cover of the motor and discovered all the mud dauber nests. That turned out to be what was blocking the orifices of the ribbon burner in my bowl forge. As for me, I got out to the forge for a couple of hours last night and continued work on a pair of specialty tongs. I was drawing out their reins and things were going quite well until my treadle hammer self-destructed! The welds that hold the 3/4" plate that makes up the striking face suddenly failed, and the plate went a-flying (not violently, thank God). All work stopped until I could get it welded back on, and by then, it was time to go back inside. I did also get a bit of cleanup done on the coffee table base, so there's that.
April 3Apr 3 Larry, what type of latter will be your first? I have two. The first is a piece of 2” round forged down into a 1” swage, and the second is about a 1” slabbed off of about an 8” cylinder. The smaller one really helps with taking significant lumps out, and can smooth out surfaces that aren’t intended to be exact tapers. The larger one is fantastic for keeping things really smooth, but the final surface will be a straight line across the full length. Keep it fun, David
April 4Apr 4 John, your bowl tongs and photos are inspiring! David, your question gave me pause (as I did not know). After sleeping on it, I still don't, but know that you planted a seed in MN, to germinate at some point hence. I noted your description of the flatters you have as both being round vs. those that I've seen which are square faced. This makes me think of how they're used & why. The square face seems to suggest coming up against a shoulder, but it would seem the round is more versatile. A future project will create the need and thus my answer... --Larry
April 4Apr 4 Larry, I ran out to the shop a got a picture of the some of tooling I use most often. The two flatters are in the top right of the picture. The basic difference is big vs small. (My description was not clear. I slabbed a piece off the cylinder along its axis.) Honestly, what gets used most often is basic bar stock as stops. I have a length of 1/4”x1” and 3/8”x3/4” sitting by the hammer and with those two bars I get most of my final sizing done. Of course, side sets are fantastic tools at the hammer. Speaking of side sets and flatter, on option to get Rh/Lh sides sets and a small flatter/fuller: Cut a 3” length of 2” round down the middle. One half gives you 2”x3” flatter/fuller. Cut the other half down to quarters and that will give you two pieces to make Rh and Lh sides sets. Just grind everything smooth with radii and weld handles on. My way is not necessarily the right way… Keep it fun, David
April 4Apr 4 My experience with power hammers is limited, but my understanding is that if you’re using a flatter on a tapered workpiece (1),a round-top flatter will conform to the taper while smoothing out its surface (2), whereas a flat-top will both smooth out the surface and make its top and bottom parallel (3). 4 hours ago, LarryFahnoe said: photos are inspiring Portrait Mode is a wonderful thing!
April 4Apr 4 David, thank you for the tooling photo and further descriptions, very helpful! I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit that I was thinking of the flatter used with hand hammer rather than the power hammer...with your photo and descriptions, I'm properly clued in. Your drawings John emphasize the point, thanks. I'm assuming that the dies on the left are examples of the drawing saddles you mentioned earlier, what about the one top center though? Is that a type of side step? The mention of a side set sent me off to learn & I came up with an example from Torbjörn Åhman: I have lots of fun learning ahead of me! --Larry
April 4Apr 4 For good examples of power hammer technique and tooling I would recommend Brent Bailey’s and John Rigoni’s YouTube videos. Both channels are linked from IFI on this page: John’s hammer is probably close to yours in size, Bent Bailey’s is a 250lb LG, and he make everything look super easy with only a couple hits… (Bent does have a couple videos where he explains different techniques and that provided me with some really good insight.) Not to take away from Torbjorn’s channel. He his is another I would recommend, if you hadn’t mentioned it. (Torbjon’s channel also is the only one that still seems active.) Those are the best three channels I’ve come across for power hammer tooling and technique. (Not saying I don’t what a lot of others.) Keep it fun, David
April 6Apr 6 I finally got to work on a seax today. Only took about about three times as long as it should to forge in a basic tang and point and straighten everything out and even that wore me out, but that's more than I've been able to do for a long while. Tomorrow if my leg lets me, file work, heat treat, and start in on the bevels.
April 6Apr 6 Thanks David, have added those to my list of references. Watching John Rigoni's 10 year review of his hammer I noted the die saddle he uses...I am planning to make one akin to Ken Zitur's, but John's addition of the stop blocks was interesting. No shortage of things to make, the shortage is time! --Larry
April 7Apr 7 That is a very neat handle idea! I like it. Pokers are some of my favorite things to make. Everyone knows what it is and they can get really creative.
April 7Apr 7 I've tried that style handle before and it turned out like the leavngs of a sick dog. I hadn't tried it since. Yours looks great. Did you form it around a mandrel?
April 8Apr 8 The first 4 roses of the season are done. They take me forever, but I love the different touches I'll put on them. The push is on to get at least a dozen made for craft fair season. I'm guessing that 3 of these are going to find homes before the end of the week.
April 8Apr 8 Beautiful work Chad! I appreciate the effort you put in to make each one unique, I certainly hope your customers will appreciate your effort too! --Larry
April 8Apr 8 Thanks Larry! I actually had a couple guys at work ask if I had any ready to go. I bet 3 are gone by Friday. Shiny, I did with one, brass brushed one, used a combo of gold and titanium hammered finish spray paint on one, and the fourth I used a light coat of copper spray paint.
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