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New Coal Forge - Any luck with 8" chimney pipe and half hood?


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On 9/29/2020 at 11:24 AM, LemonAden said:

would be too large to fit inside of a propane forge.

You hit it on the head with this post for the benefits of coal over propane especially the loss that comes from it's running full on when at the forge.

Again, don't give up on bituminous until you gain fire management. The difference is like night and day.

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I sourced some bituminous out of PA and can get 50, 50LB bags on a pallet delivered to me for $800 (including LTL freight).  It comes out to a little more than double the amount of what I am paying for my anthracite but the good thing I can just sell it locally as you can't get it around here. It would take me a VERY long time to use a pallet! haha

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Now you are thinking! Also, sometimes a day or overnight "vacation" in a truck or hauling a trailer means cheaper prices by a magnitude. Fall is a great time to do that. Lots of cor.

Also, check out your local blacksmith organization. They may have a good source for coal closer to home and less money.

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Please make sure it's good smithing coal before sinking the money into it.  (Usually other smiths will have opinions on what sources are good).    There are bituminous coals that are terrible to work with and ones that are absolutely wonderful!

I may have to see what they will do on a pallet to NM if it's the good stuff!

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For $16.00 U.S. per bag that's not a real bad price. I just checked Kayne & Sons Blacksmith supplies and they get $23.00 per 50 lb bag + shipping. I bought a bag from them a long time ago and if memory serves me it was $12.00 back then but it is very good coal.

From their site.

Quote

From the Pocahontas #3 seam, mined in SE West Virginia.  

 

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I asked them what coal it was and got the below response. Looks like I might be placing an order soon! What do you all think?

Pocy low vol Smithing coal, we've never got any complaints about quality and we have alots and lots of repeat customers.  The coal is very soft so it can have a lot of fines, maybe 20% with the Pea size, but that's the low vol nature of the coal that makes it almost smokeless.  It's high BTU, nearly 14000, low sulfur 0.6%, low ash approx 6-7%.

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LemonAden, there is a place in Springwater, NY called The Coal Shop that is pretty close to me. I can't link to their site, but they sell what I am guessing is the same coal you're looking at out of PA for $10/50# bag, and they deliver. I'm not sure what the shipping would be, but I imagine it will still come out to less than $800.

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2 hours ago, Frazer said:

LemonAden, there is a place in Springwater, NY called The Coal Shop that is pretty close to me. I can't link to their site, but they sell what I am guessing is the same coal you're looking at out of PA for $10/50# bag, and they deliver. I'm not sure what the shipping would be, but I imagine it will still come out to less than $800.

Dang I wish I saw this earlier! I already paid for a pallet from the place I mentioned above.  Next time I will call The Coal Shop and get one! 

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I started out with charcoal, Then went to coal.  The coal here goes for $30/50 pound bag. Kinda pricey, but, still a bit less expensive than Royal oak in the long run.   The last bag of coal was not as clean as previous bags though. (way more clinker)  But I like using coal, once I figured out how to work it.   I now need a 10 inch flue, the 8 inch doesn't draw very well.

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Much has changed since I posted this last year.  I found a property in Vermont that I couldn't resist so I relocated my farm over the winter.  Fortunately I didn't spend the money on the 8" flue prior to moving (would have been a big waste of money) and kept bringing my forge outside while I was working.   The new property has a great building I am going to set my forge up in and I have been told by countless people since my original post that 8" would be a bad idea. I may try to do some sort of powered side vent with the new property so I can avoid having to run pipe up through the new forge area as it is 2 stories and has a metal roof.  Unfortunately I am still bringing my forge outside until I sort this out at my new location but it gets the job done.

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Consider running a horizontal flue through the side of the building and then up above the roofline. Uri Hofi's side-blast hood is a good option:

Quote

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2008 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

BP1048 Side Draft Chimney
by Uri Hofi

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/1000/1048/003.JPG

This is the forge station in my school. The side draft chimney works very well.

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/1000/1048/002.JPG

The square tunnel is 13 inches x 13 inches with a 4 degrees down slope to prevent the rain water from flowing back into the fire. The tunnel is some 4 feet long, but it can be 1-2 feet more if needed without any problems. The tunnel is fabricated from 3/16 inch regular sheet metal (black), and painted twice with silver paint. After 15 years it is not rusted yet.

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/1000/1048/001.JPG

The stainless steel pipes are 12 inches inside diameter. The height of the chimney is 10 feet. In this case I wanted the chimney to go up as near as possible to the end of the roof. You can clearly see it.

On the tunnel there is a 2 inch high collar that the chimney tube is seated on. There is a collar band holding the chimney with straps bolted to the wall. They can be seen in the photo.http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/1000/1048/025.JPG

There is no rain hood on top of the chimney as it would slow down the air flow. This is the reason for the 4 degrees down slope of the tunnel so that any rain water flows out a drain hole and not into the forge.

In the school we have 11 chimneys, and 3 more in the shop, for a total of 14 chimneys of this design.

Additional material:
Because of the large amount of air being moved up the chimney, you should allow for the same amount air to enter the building by opening a window or door. The large amount of air being moved up the chimney also has the benefit of keeping the horizontal and vertical chimney pipe cool. Hofi has zero clearance in his set up. Some folks using this set up have reported the horizontal section of chimney at the wall, being cool to warm to the touch.

The forge should be of sufficient distance from the wall so the heat from the forge does not affect the wall. You can mount a thin sheet of metal (or other nonflammable material) with a air gap between the material and the wall in order to protect the wall if needed.

(The original blueprint is at https://www.iforgeiron.com/index2.html/blueprints/uri-hofi-series/bp1048-side-draft-chimney-r175/, but some folks have been having trouble accessing the blueprint section for some reason.)

Note that while he says "After 15 years it is not rusted yet", that does not take into account the climatic differences between Israel and Vermont!

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