Don't forget to break the edges where a tent's rope would ride in the peg.

Thanks George. I actually planned to do a twist in the tent pegs, but currently have my vise set up in a separate location to my anvil.  I don't know what the optimum angle for tent pegs is, but that's a good point. I hope to test them towards the end of the year. Haven't had a proper holiday in years... really looking forward to it!

Didn't think of breaking the edges Thomas. I should have. Better do that now I think.

I think the holding power of a stake with a twist would be most pronounced in turf of some sort.  I dry ground I doubt there would be much difference.  With large, hand forged stake you have to be a bit careful in rocky ground or someplace with big roots.  You can pound them into a crack in the rock like a piton and have a very hard time extracting them.  You can also drive them into roots and it is like trying to pry a spike out of a log.  I have abandoned tent stakes that were too difficult to extract.  It's easy to make a replacement.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

One reason I try to make short blunt tapers; they tend to skid off obstructions rather than get driven into them.  It's also good practice making a taper that is about the same length as the material thickness.  I work at the edge of the anvil with the hammer face about half way off the anvil to "pinch" the end.

16 hours ago, Bonnskij said:

I don't know what the optimum angle for tent pegs is, but that's a good point.

Straight up and down. Old-school thinking was that you should angle your stakes away from the tent, but the math says otherwise.

14 hours ago, George N. M. said:

I think the holding power of a stake with a twist would be most pronounced in turf of some sort

I suspect that if there is an advantage to a stake with a twist, it would actually be in the removal rather than in the holding power. It's always best to twist your stakes as you pull them out anyway, to break the friction that holds the stake into the soil. Having a twist in the stake itself might help the stake act as a screw, thus turning the rotational energy of twisting into lengthwise pull against frictiton.

When driving twisted stakes into grassy areas I have to start them about 180 degrees or so away from where I want the top to be when it is driven all the way in.  They will screw in as they are driven.  In dry, looser soil they just go straight in.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Been a while now. (Appreciate the scientific explanation for tent pegs bytheway).

The maker space had to close down for a month and a half, so things got a bit difficult for a while. 

 

Couple of pictures from the last market where for the first time, nothing sold. Oh well. Had to happen eventually:

Now I'm sitting at home with Covid while my other half and the kids are taking care of the last market of the year. I've heard they've done pretty well so far.

Good lookin’ blades!

Get well soon. Hope you sell out. They aren't all winners but then you get that one great day that makes the effort worth it. 

Funny, whether at the fleamarket or vending my wares, I always seemed to sell more when I'm not there. Can't wait for my daughters to use their charm that I lack to do the selling. Lol, that's just me. 

Nice looking sales setup. 

Thanks folks!

I think my other half is generally better at sales than me (though I can rattle of spiels on metallurgy and blade history a bit more to anyone who wants to listen,  or is too polite to run away).

And the kids are ofcourse adorable (not that I'm biased at all  )

Love that short chopper!

Thanks Thomas! The family managed to sell that one on Sunday

Here's a big whopper of a chopper that sold before I was halfway finished. The bloke who bought it gave me a big hug when I finally finished it and was absolutely beaming when I met him about a month later. Experiences like that makes me so happy to be doing this

Spring steel blade, buloke handle and carbon fibre pins.

I've been a bit short on knives on the last few markets, so brought a couple of works in progress with me to fill in space and see if there's some interest. Here's a chef knife in the making with a file steel core, 200 year old wrought iron anchor chain jacket and nickel shim that will be getting a pale moon ebony handle.

Also a seax I based of a picture from a phd thesis which slips my mind right now. Anglo-norse ironwork or something along those lines. W2 core and wrought iron jacket from a wagon wheel I picked up from the tablelands. Course and gorgeous old iron. Ringed gidgee handle with a bit of carving work on if I'm up to it.

New cleaver with a couple of firsts. This is my first bottle style handle and pin for a hidden tang handle. Leaf spring cleaver with black box burl and maple handle with a brass pin.

A few railway spike tap handles I just completed for a local brewery opening soon:

My partners old clothes airer was getting pretty rusty, so I bought a new one and turned the old one into heart pendants:

Another bottle handled cleaver. I feel like I keep changing the design of these cleavers, but I think I'm getting close to the final iteration now. Figured buloke and maple handle:

Alot of nice work. I especially like the choppers and your handle material. Really sharp.

Thank you! Really appreciate it!

Long time no see!

Made a big hook and eye latch for a lady's fence gate.

Though strictly speaking stock removal npt forging, here's a filet knife I made. 15n20 blade and Tiger myrtle handle.

 

Finally finished this chef knife as well. High carbon core from an Australian made Wiltshire file. Wrought iron from 200 year old anchor chain and a nickel shim. Handle is pale moon ebony with a 5000 year old ancient redgum bolster. Currently in the process of applying finish:

The local museum is also selling some of my things now, which im really quite proud of!

 

Awesome stuff Bonnskij. Beautiful wood on the handles and love the pattern on the chef knife. 

nice chefknife

Beautiful knives all round.

I LOVE Myrtle wood, I have a small collection and the stock Dad made for my rifle. I've never seen that pattern but that's one of the best things about Myrtle there are so many different patterns you never know what it'll look like other than beautiful.

Sorry for the ramble but it reminds me of Dad, good, memories.

Frosty The Lucky.

Bonnskij, I'm not a "knife person", but I have to say that your knives and cleavers are some of the most beautiful I've ever seen.  The lines, wood colors/grain, shapes......Almost makes me want to become a "knife person".

Thanks everyone. Im really flattered 

Really happy with how the chef turned out in the end. Been procrastinating on that one for far too long. Glad i used an oversized pice for the handle as i managed to break both one and two drill bits and had to grind the wood down to get them out.

I love the variation in this wood too Frosty. Incredible amount of variation. I've seen some really beautiful quilt figure pices before as well.

The Myrtle wood stock Dad made for the 8mm. Mauser is golden tiger eye with subtle but pronounced chatoyancy. It's attractive until you take a closer look, then it's hypnotic. I picked up a decent selection last time I was in the Myrtle wood forest. I've never seen two pieces alike unless they were from the same place from a plank. 1' down the plank is different. 

I've only made one knife handle and mirrored the grain for each side from one piece of myrtle. I was hoping for a more striking grain but it came out nice anyway. Now all I need do is finish the knife and take a couple pics.

Frosty The Lucky.

That sounds really fantastic Frosty. Would love to see some pictures!