GrumpyBiker Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 I’m interested in seeing what style & type of headers everyone has and what size nails you guys have found sells best ! Also if you have a technique that works best for you for making them I’d love to hear it ! This one is 1/4”, I needed a larger one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 For 1/4 inch stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 I like the bulge , is that part forge welded on? Or Forged that way from the get go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal Harris Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Those I have seen have all looked like a variation of the one Glenn posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Forged This was before clean up with a grinder. Working part of the header. I collected all the 1/4 inch short pieces of stock I could find, welded it together end to end to make 24-30 inch lengths, and proceeded to make nails. Got a lot of practice and got rid of a lot of short pieces of 1/4 inch stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 The bulge makes peening the head easier. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 The convex shape allows the working part of the header to grab onto the nail while you form the head. Once formed you can then easily remove the nail from the header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 It also create a concave underside to the nail head. When you set a nail like this, the edges of the head bury into the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 What would you all say is the best thickness for the working end of the header? The concave portion in particular. I don’t want to go to thin & have it begin to collapse. I know it doesn’t receive any heavy hammering but I want it to last years & not have to mess with it once it’s right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 That would depend on the size of stock you are working and how much use it would see. I've forged small 1/4" minus stock ones from pickup coil spring and have replaced one that a student broke in class trying to hammer out a nail they put in from the wrong side.The other and replacement had been used for years now but save for class are not much used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 25, 2019 Author Share Posted September 25, 2019 Anyone here use / make a solid working end nail header vs a concave (hollow underside) header ? I’ve seen a couple different versions but I know it’ll be a longer process making one instead of the quick & easy flat style I have. I’ll be making a couple this Fall and am looking for and appreciate the input and advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 I've been looking at RR spikes as stock. I'm thinking about cutting a diaginal slice under the head and bending it flat then punching the hole. The top of the spike is already convex and it'll be solid. I might try to utilize the point for knicking the nail stock also. I haven't worked out the details quite yet but I'll post the results good or bad after I try it. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I was just informed that my fair city is under a temporary burn ban. So it's going to be a little longer than expected until I can try out the header made from a spike. Maybe next weekend. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal Harris Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Most city ordinances don’t really know how to class forging. The closest Is welding or using a torch. You can get around the burn ban in many places by poring a concrete slab or laying down a brick patio. The trick is to have at least the minimum required area of non-burnable space. Once you have that, go to the local fire department and ask for a permit. They will come out and assess your area and if it looks safe and is up to code, you can pay them for the permit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Where I live they're pretty permissive when it comes to open flame. I live in the town part of a rural community. We can have burn barrels or whatever. No open flame is allowed temporarily due to the lack of rain for the last six or seven weeks. I have been hesitant to light my forge anyway because it's in the woods and the leaves have started falling. I raked them up but until it rains I don't think burning charcoal in tinder dry woods would be a good idea. It's supposed to rain Monday though. The burn ban includes charcoal grills. I spoke with a volunteer fire fighter yesterday on the way home from work. It really is scary dry here. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 I had a student who went that way; the city told him he had to get a permit every time he was going to use the forge; applying 5 business days ahead of time and paying US$20 for each one. He ended up moving to a less costly to forge area. I have found propane forges to be useful for some areas as you can make the argument that they can't really shut down a propane forge without shutting down all the propane grills as well. (And here in NM we can get some strict burn bans---on a SCA camp out once; I was required to have the county fire marshal pick the site for my forge and it had to be propane!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 They're pretty permissive here it's just been unusually dry. It hasn't rained in almost two months, and this is an agricultural community. No rain plus unusually high temperatures equals bad news. Today is supposed to be the hottest day ever recorded in October around here. As soon as we get some rain I'll be able to forge again. The rain is likely to produce it's own issues because of how dry the ground is. I'll just have to wait and see. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal Harris Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 My wife works for the city. She gets really freaky about my forge at times. The actual ordinance governing it is a bit vague and to me at least, open to interpretation, but she is correct. I am risking a fine every time I fire it up. It is an open fire. i’ve never had a problem with it escaping though. The only times I have ever caught anything on fire it has been caused by hot steel slipping out of my tongs and that doesn’t happen as often now, and when it does a bit of water from the 5 gallon bucket between my anvil and forge takes care of it quick. Rather than a permit I am hoping the fire chief is a reasonable man and capable of thinking logically. Bricks, once I actually get them down, cannot burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven NY Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 With all the different BBQ grills, smokers, hibachis and who knows what else being allowed it seems a hot dog hung over the forge when needed might be the answer. Most people set out to use Chimenea and grills without the preparation and thought that goes into our forges. It is sad to think that common sense has become so uncommon as to cause these types of problems. Here to hoping for reasonable over site from local government officials. I have never had a problem with anyone yet, but twice have had policeman running down my driveway while I was starting my coal stove to heat my home. I always thank them for keeping an eye out. When you live in town, it does seem to always be a concern. Have a good one, W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 I walked up to the fire station Friday morning and spoke with them about my charcoal forge and the temporary burn ban here. I learned two things. The first was they told me the ban didn't cover my forge and the second was that one of the older firefighters does some blacksmithing. I talked with him for about two hours about forging. He seemed to subscribe to some of the myths of blacksmithing but I didn't want to be rude so I didn't contradict any of them. He also invited me to his forge. I'll have to take him up on the offer sometime. I still didn't light the forge. Regardless of the burn ban not including my forge I still thought it would be a bad idea to go ahead. It's raining right now for the first time in quite a while and supposed to continue until Monday morning totaling about an inch and three quarters by the time it passes. I'd prefer to wait and be safe rather than maybe cause a fire just because I'm not specifically prohibited from using my forge. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven NY Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Preparation and planning in action, with a dash of threat assessment. If only everyone would practice these things we would not need so much parenting from our government and its officials, but alas the few always spoil things for the many. Then to keep us all safe uncompromising laws are enacted. While I bristle under what I deem sometimes excessive oversight, I also can not come up with a viable third option that would work for all. It is an imperfect system but it is our system, and I hope that it is truly acting in the collective best interest with the best of intentions. I find I am happiest when I am doing my own thing in my own very small corner of the universe, making as few waves as possible. As for the thread topic, this is my first attempt at a nail header. The hole is tapered to be wider at the bottom smaller at the top. It is miss aligned with the shank and while it works I think it would work better if it was not. The shank on the bottom fits in the pritchel hole of my anvil so I do not have to chase it around the anvil or hold it while I forge the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 I haven't seen one with a rodded handle like that. Very cool. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeltree Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Heads are from grade 8 bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Very clever idea for your header!....interchangable inserts for different size nails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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