Steven NY

That is a great method! Thank you for the video. It really simplifies the process. Steven

Hello, Not from what I have read in this thread and my experience using the product. The dishonesty is on the part of "torchtools[dot]com" not Gentec itself. I did not buy my Gentec from that site. There are many sites that sell the Gentec gas savers, the problem JHCC had was with the retail end not the manufacturer. So the lesson is to vet the store you are ordering the product from, not that Gentec makes a bad product. If I missed the mark JHCC please feel free to correct me. Have a great day, W

Hello, Have you used your propane forge to forge weld before? It is hard to tell from the picture but I am thinking that the metal was not hot enough to forge weld. I use a coal forge when forge welding, and have developed an eye for what the metal should look like to know it is at the right temperature. I have heard that metal in a gas forge does not develop the same "Wet" look it does in a coal forge. I am sure some of the gas forge people on the forum can give you details of what they look for. Your metal does not look overly pitted like it was burned, but is is hard to tell from the photo. The scaling does not look very heavy either. So my guess is more heat, but again my propane forge experience with forge welding is none existent. Good luck, keep trying, W

Hello, That looks like a very good anvil. From what I have seen that style of anvil is know as a coachsmiths' anvil or side bick anvil. With the two pritchel holes, it looks like the Mousehole Forge anvils I have seen in old advertisements. The small side bick is used as a small square bick for making tight bends. I think it can also be used when making chain, but then it may have been reshaped to better suite that purpose. As far as weight goes I can not really guess. I am sure someone with more anvil lore than myself will be along to pass on more information. Hope this helps, W

Hello, When I set up my torch system I did not want to move the tanks around my shop from vise to bench or anvil. So my tanks are chained to the wall. I have a running line from the tanks to the gas saver cart that allows me to reach anywhere in my shop and even outside my shop. To be honest 99% of the time the extra line is just coiled next to the tanks in large loops. I mainly seem to use the torch in one or two locations in the shop. The tanks are isolated from where I am working, and can not be tipped over. The gas saver cart is small and can be conveniently placed right where I need it without having to move the tanks or having a large cart in the way. I have lost some mobility having my tanks chained to the wall, but I have gained freedom of movement where I use my torches the most. Just a different set up style to think about. Have a great night, W

Hello, I use a Gentec Model 100QF-Y with my Oxygen & Acetylene torch setup. It has worked very well for me for several years. It seems to be well built, and has been reliable for the things I use it for. The only “issue” I have noticed is that in cold weather the shut off hook is slow to rise when the torch is lifted. I usually just bump it up with the torch head before I reignite the torch, not a big deal at all. Just the only odd thing I can think of. I am not sure if the return spring is a little weak or if it is the tightness of the valving but when it is cold the arm moves slower. Maybe that is how they all act; mine is the only one I have ever used. I never store my torch hanging from the hook. I hang my torch from the cart. It has been very useful when setting rivets or bending at the vise. I can tell you I would never run a torch setup again without a gas saver. If I needed another gas saver I would by another Gentec. Have a great day, W

Alex, Thank you! W

Alexandr, Great looking canopy! What is the clear material used to cover it? I would like to build something similar for my Mother. Have a good one, W

I pay 9.00 per 50 pound sack of Pennsylvania Smithing Coal, 7.00 per bag for 40# bags of anthracite coal. I use a mixture of the two in my forge. I also by bulk anthracite for home heating and forging at 215.00 per ton.

Hello all, I finished and install a commissioned pizza oven door today. I am really pleased with how it turned out. Everything works smoothly, and the door will stay open at any angle. Have a great day, W

I agree the falconry regulations are in place for a reason. Some of them should be changed at this point due to the change in wild populations of some raptors but yes the Federal and Sate governments hold all the hoops. Falconry is the most regulated field sport in the USA. In 1940 the bald eagle was protect up until then they where being shot. All raptors gained protection in 1972. So up until about 50 years ago people still shot these birds. Movements to protect and reestablish raptors such as the peregrine falcon after DDT were spearheaded by Falconers. As far as the take of nestlings and passage birds from the wild, rough 80-90% of first year birds do not survive their first year. So the impact falconry has is only beneficial in that regard. As with everything in falconry there are rules when it comes to taking raptors from the wild. So if that nest you are talking about Frosty is on private land a falconer would need permission from the owner to take one. Taking nestlings is not something I do. I have never imprinted a bird. All of my birds are first year birds, raised by their parents in the wild, full formed and developed, taken after they have left the nest and started their migration. However someday I may be interested in trying a Goshawk so if you could talk a few of those chicks to migrate through upstate New York that would be great. Have a great day all, W

Hello George, I am not familiar with that series but will have to look into it. I love books. I have an Audible book addiction and see the series is available. I served a two year apprenticeship under a master falconer, and I am now in my 9th year as a general class falconer(4 more years than required). I may apply for my master falconer permit, but not for a couple more years. I am in no rush. As a general class falconer I can fly three birds which is more than I could handle I think. The only other advantage to a master class falconry permit is the opportunity to fly eagles which I do not have the hunting habitat for. As I near retirement I think the upgrade will make more sense. I can tell you it is long process to be licensed for falconry. I would love to fly a coopers hawk but that would require me not to have a red tail, coopers hawk require your full attention. The red tail hawk is really the best bird for my area and the game I have available to me. I am thinking about adding a kestrel to the team this coming fall, I would like to try hunting starlings and English house sparrows. Thank you, W

Hello all, Besides blacksmithing & making many things of different materials, my other "hobby" is Falconry. I train and fly hawks for hunting. It is not really a hobby as much as a way of life. It impacts and informs everything I do in one way or another. This is my current Red Tailed Hawk named Alenta. We have just wrapped up a very successful hunting season. I make my own falconry equipment whenever possible. She is a first year bird, this summer she will molt and gain the iconic red tail her breed is named for. I will hunt with her as my partner for 2-3 years then release her back into the wild to make new red tails. If you enjoy the outdoors, hunting, or birds in general; I would suggest trying to get out once to watch a falconer work with their bird. My first tag along hunt is one of the top ten experiences of my life. Have a great day, W

Condensation, no water in the anvil, it is gathering on the surface from the atmosphere. It is the temp difference between the anvil and the air. Nice anvil, W

Hello Luke, This is what I use. I made it out of brass sheet metal. I have made many clamps this style out of steel also, for antique motorcycles. The hook on the brass one I use with my OA torch is soldered on under the clamp. Hope this helps, Steven

Hello all, I have checked in on this topic on and off all day. To be honest it is very difficult for me to read. As a public school teacher (Technology Education or Shop class if you are old school) that starts his day around 5:30 in the morning with online education work, is at school at 6:30am preparing for the day, greets students at the school doors at 7:30, runs to his classroom at 8:03 to start teaching for a full day of both virtually and in-person instruction, it really bothers me to hear what you think of my profession and my coworker. I am never not a teacher, I think about my work at all times. The stress and heart break this job can cause is a heavy burden at times. To hear some of you run down the public education system and blame it on the teachers is offensive to me. No one wants the their team to win more than the coach! No one wants students to succeed more than their teachers! Yet when the team or student falls short it is the coaches or teachers fault. Does home schooling work, yes sometimes, but in those cases you have parents that are active and interested in their children's lives and educations. It starts at home. Teachers have no power. We can lead the horse to the water we can turn ourselves into the water, but that does not make the students drink. I receive updates from my students on rare occasions thanking me for helping them find their path in life. Knowing I really reached one of them and had a positive impact on their lives is why I do this. Trust me when I tell you the money does not cut it. When you are bashing your head against a wall trying to reach a student who is capable but does not care it is crushing to your soul! I think most people that want to change education should go back to school, spend 5 years getting their masters degree in their chosen field then stand in front of a classroom of students and be the change they want to see. Oh but don't forget the reports that are due to the administration, the BOE meetings, maintenancing your room, did you run off those copies you needed for one of the six different classes you teach (that's not 6 of the same class that is 6 completely different preps + don't forget the virtual work that is different from the in-person work)? While you keep those balls in the air don't forget to return that parents phone call where you will be sworn at for their child not completing any work and receiving a failing grade in your class. It is to bad they didn't get back to you earlier in the semester when you let them know there was a problem. Until you have walked in my (our) shoes I ask you politely to put away your paint brushes. I work with good teachers, in a good school district, that I also attended as a student. I look to all of you who so clearly see the failing in the system to become the shining light of hope to save the system by joining us and showing us how to do it better. Steven Williams K-12 Technology Education Teacher

I love mine! I use it all the time. Very handy, and really helps with forging accuracy. I have found my style of guillotine tool very versatile. I can use just the top die and fuller or butcher from one side only. As I come up with new jobs for it I make new dies. My striking plate on some of my dies are interchangeable & replaceable. As I look at this picture I realize several of my newsiest dies were not made when this picture was taken. Hope this helps, Steven

Hello, My post drill did a similar thing when I received it. The pin that goes through the spindle on mine had bent and was not longer ridding in the slot behind the spindle without that pin to act as a stop everything would turn, but it would just free wheel. I would check to see if there is a slot behind the spindle, and make sure the pin going through the spindle is engaging it. It allows the threaded collar purchase so that the turning force of the wheel drives the spindle down. If the pin is broken or bent like it was on mine, everything turns but without the collar stop pin the male and female thread just spin together. Hope this helps, and that my explanation makes sense, W

They kind of look like Caulking Irons used for leading cast iron pipes. At least that is my best guess. Have a good one, W

I use my champion #98 for countersinking/de-burring holes, it works great for that. I drill my holes with my standard electric drill press, and countersink with my hand crank drill. No swapping drill bits to chamfer a hole or remove a burr. They are set up within one step of each other which makes the operation fast and easy. By using my hand crank to only countersink or de-burr I almost never have to adjust the table height on the drill. I love old tools, but like to have a reason for having them in my shop, that is how I justified the antique drill press. With practice I can justify almost anything lol. Have a good one, W

That is a beauty! Love the paint job. I am guessing the extra long shaft held a flat belt pulley at one time? Very nice restoration. Have a great day, W

Very Nice Build! Have a great day, W

Chris, How thick is the plywood base you mounted your post to? I have built 3 stand out of plywood bases and laminated 2x4 for the post and have had great luck. My second and third stands are rock solid. 46" diameter circle 3/4" plywood double layer glued and screwed together in a spider web pattern. The post is also glued and screwed into place with 6"-8" log locker screws. My first stand is not as solid. The base is 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood glued together, the post is also much smaller on the first one, but I did build the first stand out of scrap I had laying around. Getting the mounting plate & the back and bottom of the stationary leg to all draw up tight at the same time makes a big difference. If your vise is wobbling on the post you need to tighten up those areas. The vise below is standing on a steel plate up to the collar recessed into the plywood(supports the vise), the back of the leg is tight to the top of the post (helps to keep the vise from twisting), the mounting plate is lag screwed down with bushing to take up the slack due to the fact I used 3/8 lags in 5/8 holes(keeps the back of the leg tight to the post, the bushing keep any side to side slop out of the vise). If the post and base are flexing you need to add reinforcement or build it bigger. I just changed out the lags on my first stand, that helped a lot, the post flexes a little, but the biggest part of the instability was the twisting caused by undersized lags. Hope this helps, or at least makes sense. Have a great day, W

Good question!! While I do enjoy many different musical genres, everything from DMB, Dropkick Murphy, Korn, Marilyn Manson, Led Zeppelin, The Beatles, The Eagles, Metallica, Coldplay, U2 to name but a few of my favorite artists. I almost never listen to music in the Blacksmith Shop. Music distracts me because it has to be just right for me to enjoy it. This leads to me skipping songs to find just the right one for my current mood and situation instead of working. I listen to books almost exclusively while working. Since 2016 when I first got into audio books I have listened to over 4,975 hours worth of content that is 207 days spent listening. While my music needs to fit my mood, and activity, books are reliable entities (sometimes no more than white noise). The constant voice and the fact that I listen to all my books several times (familiarity) usually allows me to concentrate on my work while listening to a good story, I can also very easily let the sound of the voice fall into the background if I am really trying to concentrate on something. Although sometimes I need to skip back an hour or two when I realize I have not been paying attention. Have a great day, W

We are passionate about anvils, we are blacksmiths! If you come here looking for information and someone does their level best to answer your questions in the best way possible I do not see what the problem is. The more information Thomas has the better guess at a fair price he can make based on his experience. Yes some people would consider an anvil a luxury item as you can survive without one. Just me two cents, W