Steven NY

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About Steven NY

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upstate NY - Herkimer County
  • Interests
    My first love is falconry.

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  1. Hello Hobb, I love my TIG welder. Its ability to join base metals with little or no filler material makes it more useful to me in my work. TIG welding is very similar to oxy-acetylene gas welding, melt your base metals then feed your rod and move the puddle forward. I feel TIG gives you greater heat control for all levels of base material thickness. MIG is quick and easy but almost always needs more grinding to blend the weld. With MIG your wire speed and amperage has to be in balance which always leads to a larger bead on the surface at least for me. I have found that with practice I now prefer my TIG welder for almost all of my welding needs. Just me 2 cent. Have a great day, W
  2. Hello JSD, I buy my bagged bituminous coal from: Dutchman Enterprises 95 Willett St, Fort Plain, NY 13339 They charge about $9.00 per 50 lbs. bag. I also buy anthracite coal from them (about $7.00 per bag) as I burn a mixture of both coal varieties in my forge. They are located about an hour from Albany. I started off forging with anthracite as that is what I use to heat my home and once heating season arrives I buy my coal by the loose ton and use it for both forging and heating. Have a great day, W
  3. They look like Cobblers Pliers to me, my dad made shoes for a living for over 30 years. He had several pairs very similar to the ones shown. They where used for lasting the uppers. Have a good one, W
  4. Besides Blacksmithing I am a hardcore baker, over 1,000 loaves of bread last school year. It all started when I dropped off a few loaves of bread for a bake sale for an injured teacher. Before I knew it I was baking bread for half the school. My money from baking helps fund my blacksmithing. I did not expect to have so many people interested in the bread I was making, but my name got out there and it spread. I am now also baking for the school my wife works for. I see this as the same type of opportunity for you. It helps the students, and is good advertising for your blacksmithing. It could spread like wildfire. If you do it for the altruistic reason, then whatever comes of it will be profitable even if you just break even. Have a good one, W
  5. Preparation and planning in action, with a dash of threat assessment. If only everyone would practice these things we would not need so much parenting from our government and its officials, but alas the few always spoil things for the many. Then to keep us all safe uncompromising laws are enacted. While I bristle under what I deem sometimes excessive oversight, I also can not come up with a viable third option that would work for all. It is an imperfect system but it is our system, and I hope that it is truly acting in the collective best interest with the best of intentions. I find I am happiest when I am doing my own thing in my own very small corner of the universe, making as few waves as possible. As for the thread topic, this is my first attempt at a nail header. The hole is tapered to be wider at the bottom smaller at the top. It is miss aligned with the shank and while it works I think it would work better if it was not. The shank on the bottom fits in the pritchel hole of my anvil so I do not have to chase it around the anvil or hold it while I forge the head.
  6. With all the different BBQ grills, smokers, hibachis and who knows what else being allowed it seems a hot dog hung over the forge when needed might be the answer. Most people set out to use Chimenea and grills without the preparation and thought that goes into our forges. It is sad to think that common sense has become so uncommon as to cause these types of problems. Here to hoping for reasonable over site from local government officials. I have never had a problem with anyone yet, but twice have had policeman running down my driveway while I was starting my coal stove to heat my home. I always thank them for keeping an eye out. When you live in town, it does seem to always be a concern. Have a good one, W
  7. Hello JLP, Thank you for the feedback, that makes sense that is is an early Trenton made in Germany. The factory it was bought from was built by stone masons contracted from Germany by our towns name sake, Alfred Dolge. It does have some edge chipping as you said the face must be very hard. I have been using it for 10+ years now and I have no complaints. You can see the hammer marks from its production, impressive piece of work. I love the anvil stand on your new Fisher, and the anvil is great too of course. I love the fact that the person that mounted it took the time to taper the stand. Have a great night, W
  8. Well then. In some cases when using the butt of the antler, where it attached to the animals skull it may be very porous to combat this and add stability when inserting tangs it can be beneficial to drill a very over sized hole to remove most of the core porosity. Then insert a sleeve of either metal or hardwood to fill the gap between the tang and the antler. This helps to prevent the lamellar bone and marrow space from collapsing. I usually use Devcon 5 minute epoxy for this. Give the sleeve some tooth with course sandpaper to help it hold. This technique also works for horns which are hollow. Do not bleach animal bones to whiten them, bleach breaks down the bone and makes it brittle. Instead use peroxide. I use water filtration system peroxide as it is stronger. It whitens them without the damage. Make sure to apply some sort of oil back to the bone to help prevent it drying out as it will have a tenancy to crack as it shrinks. I generally use a few coats of mineral oil though it tends to make the bones look a little yellow instead of bright white. If you are using the bone for handle material wait to oil it until after it has been glue on as it oil penetration can effect the strength of the epoxy bond. Have a good one, W
  9. Looking great!!! You may want to raise the rim from the edge of the fire pot in the back down one side maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of its length to give yourself a place to pile your coal during clean out without the risk of it falling off the table. But then again I am very fussy about my shop, maybe to fussy at times. I do sweep up every night before I leave lol. Have a good one, W
  10. LOL Nice! well when I get that time machine built I will keep this thread in mind!
  11. I have use a lot of deer antler/bone, knobs, knife scales, pen blanks at school for antler pens, and handles of all sorts. Devcon 2 part epoxy works very well. If I were going to use them for fire place tool handles I would also pin them or make it a through tang with a cap. The thicker the antler section the more porous the inside will be, I normally try to remove most of the porous materiel or stabilize it as mentioned above. Have a great night, W
  12. Mine is just sitting in the hole in the table on a 1/4" x 1" rim welded to the fire pot. With the weight of the fire pot, tuyere, and ash dump it probably weighs about 40-50 pounds. It does not move. I left a 1/4" of space between the table top and the drop in fire pot for thermal expansion and compliance. My table is an old cast iron table saw table so I did not weld any part of the fire pot or rim to it, it just free floats in the hole on the rim. Thank you IFC, it was a bit of a head scratcher on how to mount and control the air flow with the new blower, and I wanted to have the ability to hook up my Champion 400 at some point to this new system also. It works well for being made out of scrap from a shed I built this summer. The blower I was using for this forge was off my old forge which is now at school, I am using it in my metal working course with my students. So I had to make the new system work or go with out forging. Necessity is the mother of getting it done. Have a good one, W
  13. I use mostly anthracite coal, takes a little more startup to get it going quickly. A few sheets of newspaper will not touch anthracite. To be honest the base of that fire is crumpled newspaper, so it is probably not as much wood as you may think. But from experience I can tell you it works. have a good one, W
  14. I welded up my new fire pot out of 1/2" mild steel last year. I am glad I did. During normal operation it is black to dull red, when working it hard, it will glow medium to bright red and has formed scale on the outside. I am hoping the extra thickness will help it last longer. I used an old table saw table for the table, the fire pot drops into that. One of the largest reasons I made my new forge setup was the size of the table on my old forge. It was to small, no place to store my coal/coke while cleaning out the fire pot. I like the size you are going with should work well.
  15. I do love my anvil!!! Also I must say I am very glad I found this site as I was getting ready to setup my smithy. I had originally thought to repair the "Damage" to my anvil. God knows what would of come from the ideas banging around in my head at that time. After reading many posts on this site one really stuck with me, "forge on it for a year then make decisions about repairing it" I am very glad I waited to repair my anvil. I have done nothing to it but clean it up and use it for the past many years, and as it turns out that is all it needed. Have a great day, W