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I Forge Iron

Steven NY

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About Steven NY

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Upstate NY - Herkimer County
  • Interests
    My first love is falconry.

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  1. I use my champion #98 for countersinking/de-burring holes, it works great for that. I drill my holes with my standard electric drill press, and countersink with my hand crank drill. No swapping drill bits to chamfer a hole or remove a burr. They are set up within one step of each other which makes the operation fast and easy. By using my hand crank to only countersink or de-burr I almost never have to adjust the table height on the drill. I love old tools, but like to have a reason for having them in my shop, that is how I justified the antique drill press. With practice I can justify almost anything lol. Have a good one, W
  2. That is a beauty! Love the paint job. I am guessing the extra long shaft held a flat belt pulley at one time? Very nice restoration. Have a great day, W
  3. Steven NY

    The New Vise

    Chris, How thick is the plywood base you mounted your post to? I have built 3 stand out of plywood bases and laminated 2x4 for the post and have had great luck. My second and third stands are rock solid. 46" diameter circle 3/4" plywood double layer glued and screwed together in a spider web pattern. The post is also glued and screwed into place with 6"-8" log locker screws. My first stand is not as solid. The base is 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood glued together, the post is also much smaller on the first one, but I did build the first stand out of scrap I had laying around. Getting the mounting plate & the back and bottom of the stationary leg to all draw up tight at the same time makes a big difference. If your vise is wobbling on the post you need to tighten up those areas. The vise below is standing on a steel plate up to the collar recessed into the plywood(supports the vise), the back of the leg is tight to the top of the post (helps to keep the vise from twisting), the mounting plate is lag screwed down with bushing to take up the slack due to the fact I used 3/8 lags in 5/8 holes(keeps the back of the leg tight to the post, the bushing keep any side to side slop out of the vise). If the post and base are flexing you need to add reinforcement or build it bigger. I just changed out the lags on my first stand, that helped a lot, the post flexes a little, but the biggest part of the instability was the twisting caused by undersized lags. Hope this helps, or at least makes sense. Have a great day, W
  4. Good question!! While I do enjoy many different musical genres, everything from DMB, Dropkick Murphy, Korn, Marilyn Manson, Led Zeppelin, The Beatles, The Eagles, Metallica, Coldplay, U2 to name but a few of my favorite artists. I almost never listen to music in the Blacksmith Shop. Music distracts me because it has to be just right for me to enjoy it. This leads to me skipping songs to find just the right one for my current mood and situation instead of working. I listen to books almost exclusively while working. Since 2016 when I first got into audio books I have listened to over 4,975 hours worth of content that is 207 days spent listening. While my music needs to fit my mood, and activity, books are reliable entities (sometimes no more than white noise). The constant voice and the fact that I listen to all my books several times (familiarity) usually allows me to concentrate on my work while listening to a good story, I can also very easily let the sound of the voice fall into the background if I am really trying to concentrate on something. Although sometimes I need to skip back an hour or two when I realize I have not been paying attention. Have a great day, W
  5. We are passionate about anvils, we are blacksmiths! If you come here looking for information and someone does their level best to answer your questions in the best way possible I do not see what the problem is. The more information Thomas has the better guess at a fair price he can make based on his experience. Yes some people would consider an anvil a luxury item as you can survive without one. Just me two cents, W
  6. Hello All, I picked up this leg vise yesterday, I believe it is a true Indian Chief from what I have read. Light chamfer on the legs, drop forging marks. (I know everyone asks, but anyone have any idea of the date from the look of the vise?) It appears to be in really good shape but I will know more once it is cleaned up and ready to put into service. It is stamped either 100 or 110 pounds. I Think I have developed a bit of a problem, this is my fourth leg vise, I think I am addicted to them. I had originally picked this up to pass on to friend that has been looking for one, but now that I have it in my shop ... . The threads on the screw are nice and square but I have never seen the necked down area before. Any thoughts? In other news I missed a 311 pound Peter Wright anvil that looked to be in good really good shape that was sold for 600 dollars, what a difference 12 hours would have made. Have a great day, W
  7. Hello Nathan, I also run a coal forge on Anthracite. I have included a picture of the way I setup my fire pot before adding the coal. Once you get your first coal fire going they will become easier to start as you will be able to use your left over partial burnt coal from your previous fire to start you next one. I light the paper under the pile of wood and as soon as the wood is going I start shoveling on the coal, starting at the front of the fire pot and working my way back until I have 3-4 inches of coal pilled on top of the still burning wood. This is the smokey stage of the operation. After the wood burns down under the coal and the coal is burning the smoke will die down to almost none. From the time I light the paper to the time my forge has a good bed of coal burning is 10 - 15 minutes. For reference my fire pot is roughly 14" square, and 4 inches deep, with a bottom blast style air supply. It take a long burning wood fire under the anthracite to get the forge going. I light an anthracite fired forge everyday, one at work every other day and one at home almost every night. What size coal are you using? Do you have a picture of your set up and how you lay your starting fire? Hope this helps, W
  8. GuardedDig2 Thank you for the information, and the great picture. I have not seen that one before. I am glade to see the ideas I had about this type of blade were accurate, I will have to try making one one day. Thanks again and great work, W
  9. Excellent looking knife. I have been researching this style of knife, could we get a few shorts of the edge profile. I would like to compare your knife to what I think I know about the shape of the blade. I am always on the look out for reference material. Did you put in the single sided fuller with the blade supported in a swage? I guess to put it another way would you mind sharing your techniques for forging this unique blade style? Thank you and have a good one, W
  10. Great looking knife, I really like that size knife. You did a great job pulling all the little details together to make a knife shine. Have a good one, W
  11. Thank you Chris, I was really impressed once I had it mounted and tried it out how well it worked. I look at things like this old mechanical machinery and I am always impressed with the ingenuity of the people that came up with those ideas. Just a note on my restoration, the advancement and retraction knob that raises and lowers the spindle is not original. I made it out of a antique spool as mine was missing. The shape does not match the originals. Have a good one, W
  12. GMoore, I know Ben Snure was on FiF recently and he is a hammer maker. Hope this helps, W
  13. This is my Champion, I use it to counter sink holes mostly, it works a treat. I built the wood column around a jack post just so I could get it mounted and working. Have a good one, W
  14. Congratulations Pnut! Blacksmiths as a form of active meditation works, keep up the great work. We have never met, but I am there with ya. W
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