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I Forge Iron

Respirator recommendations for operating gas forge?


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I don't have a workshop to put a forge in, nor do I think I'd want to if I had one.
[I shall see how long I can weather this winter when I don't get to forge like all the rest of you Torbjörn Åhmans.]

Anyways, I have a respirator that was given to me (AOSafety mask with R53HE-P100 cartridges) but some research shows this company has been absorbed into 3M and cartridges are no longer available, except for a premium on Amazon, eBay, etc. Any idea on how long these things last? The only possible marking remotely resembling any kind of expiration date is a stamp with the following numbers in green: 102403 (good through Oct. 24, '03???)

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I'm currently looking at this Miller LPR-100 said to filter 99.7% of welding fumes and mists. I also do some MIG welding and am hoping it will fit under my welding helmet.

I was wondering if something like the Miller LPR-100 would be appropriate while operating my gas forge outdoors in regards to CO2, metal fumes, etc. or if something else would be better. I realize it may be less of a concern for some operating a gas forge outdoors. However, yesterday's sudden onset of stomach aches seemed to coincide with taking off my current mask outdoors after forging, and the open air which smelled like burnt caramel. Or it might have been purely coincidental with a stomach bug going around right now. Either way, I feel like I need to get a proper fume respirator for ongoing work.

Appreciate all your input. Thanks!

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(CO) Carbon Monoxide, NOT CO2 and NO, mists, particles and smoke are not the issue, it's the CO that'll kill you. Do NOT light your forge in an enclosed space PERIOD!

Stomach aches are NOT CO exposure symptoms unless maybe you have something else they're compounding.

I'd recommend someone to talk to but I don't think they have an office on Pitcairn Island.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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the respirators won't help with co2 build up.  Did you mean CO?  they won't help with that either.  I think it is a good practice to not forge things that produce metal fume hazards.  Zinc on galvanized being the one I have heard of quite a lot.   My understanding is that the P100 standard is that it will stop 99.7% of particulate that is .3 microns or larger.   I am not an expert but have read on the subject.  Galvanized zinc coatings vaporize at forging and welding temps when it does, it immediately combines with oxygen and makes zinc oxide which is a white powder.  breathing it gives you metal fume poisoning that you don't want.   From my study all the particulate from this process is in the 5 micron range and NIOSH rates p100 possibly others to be used to prevent MFP.  

Don't know that respirator, but most of the good ones have some sort of end of life indicator.   the ones that don't rely on some chemical reaction do do their job are really filters that are good until they get plugged.  

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Please don't forge inside.  We want to see you live to forge good things for many years to come.  I'm kinda a freak about it.  My gas forge is rolled outside always and I have a CO detector inside my shop just in case the wind shifts and it might have a chance of blowing combustion gases in the door to my shop.  CO will kill you before your brain can fully comprehend something is wrong.  Don't mess with it.  If it's too cold to forge outside, work on tools and look for tools in junk / antique shops to get your forging fix.  I had to do that the first 2 years I forged because everything needed to be rolled outside.  

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To deal with excessively cold weather. I built a micro forge from one soft firebrick that runs off a small plumber's cheap propane torch.  Only can forge small items but I could run it in my rather drafty basement with no problems---did all the nails for my mastermyr chest and hot forged a lot of hack silver.  Kept me from withdrawal till the weather grew warmer.

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Now just to reiterate, I was forging outdoors and have no intentions of ever forging indoors, "nor do I think I'd want to if I had [a workshop]."

I'm about 70% convinced it might be mild metal fume fever, but perhaps someone can help confirm.

These two rods I was forging yesterday are from the same stock. It was a longer piece that I picked up at a garage sale that appears to have been a water shutoff rod (curb key, etc.), albeit a rather tall one.

I sanded a section here a little bit. Can anyone identify what the coating here looks like (if not rust)? Particularly the bottom of the two that has sort of a bronze tint almost.

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2 hours ago, MC Hammer said:

My gas forge is rolled outside always and I have a CO detector inside my shop just in case the wind shifts and it might have a chance of blowing combustion gases in the door to my shop.  CO will kill you before your brain can fully comprehend something is wrong.  Don't mess with it.

Great points!

 

2 hours ago, MC Hammer said:

If it's too cold to forge outside, work on tools and look for tools in junk / antique shops to get your forging fix.  I had to do that the first 2 years I forged because everything needed to be rolled outside.  

Yeah, I'm about there myself. Have plenty of files given to me to build tools, knives, etc. with as well as an indoor workbench project for the winter months ahead.

 

12 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

To deal with excessively cold weather. I built a micro forge from one soft firebrick that runs off a small plumber's cheap propane torch.  Only can forge small items but I could run it in my rather drafty basement with no problems---did all the nails for my mastermyr chest and hot forged a lot of hack silver.  Kept me from withdrawal till the weather grew warmer.

Thanks for the encouragement! Just need to come up with a list of small item projects now :)

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6 hours ago, Glenn said:

Contact 3M ...

Glenn perhaps you've had better luck with them than me.  early in my research, I used their online info forms seeking info.  basically saying that their specs were not clear in the cartridge applications and asking which offered protection from metal fume poisioning specifically that from welding corrigated steel.  after a week I got no answer so asked again.  to date, no response.  my research continued and I'm now satisfied that P100 will do the trick.  my specific application was to repair some galvanized antenna tower, so concentrations would not have been high anyway, but I wanted to be safe.  I recall my dad having been dosed when I was a kid and I don't want it.  

 

 

MBForge.  sure looks like rust to me. 

 

 

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MB, respirator masks can be reused a good many times. Tho you'll want to clean it and store it well. They need changed out when the start showing wear or if the "fit test" fails even with new filters. Sometimes the flap seals can get messed up. The cartraiges or filters dont last as long. Some need changed after 8 hours some after maybe 40 hours. Depends on conditions. Never trust old filters. Only use new filters and read up on how often to change them out for the conditions you are in. Masks come in different sizes, make sure you get one that fits You.  And if you want a proper seal, ...you'll have to be clean shaven where the mask seals on your face.......

New filters are Inexpensive compared to a hospital visit or deteriorated health. 

Make sure you do a fit test each time you put the mask on to use it. It is quick. 

I personally trust P-100 filters when welding and they are what I have been recommended. 

 

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The filter and pre-filter cartridges should last a long time,  (i.e. be useful), for a long time.

AS LONG AS they remained sealed with a gas tight seal.  (I. e. unopened package).

The majority of those 'gas' cartridges use activated charcoal.

So put the respirator in a gas tight in a gas tight enclosure when not in use.  Why?

Because the charcoal continues to absorb air contaminants when not in use.

Pre filters will be changed several times before the main cartridge needs to be swapped out.

SLAG.

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Another good source for industrial information,  is the center for disease control .  (C.D.C.) in Atlanta, Georgia. 

They should be able to direct to a site with the relevant information,  that you seek.

I assume that you checked out  OSHA .

SLAG.

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