MBForge

Hi Frosty, Well, thanks for the reassurance and words of encouragement. If what you say is true, and I'm sure it is (seeing as I can't seem to find high temp paint rated for 2,000 F, *tongue in cheek*), I do find it a bit misleading why someone would make it look pretty when it's just going to burn off anyways. It gives the impression that something's not quite right when it has the "appearance" of deteriorating so quickly. At any rate, I'm not big into appearances myself and can get on board with everything you said. As such, I feel better moving forward with the plans I have to burn off even more paint tomorrow Thanks for the sanity check!

Following this advice the other day, I did crack the door open for the first few heats only to find the paint in the surrounding areas in the front were being consumed away as well around the sides, top, and the door handle, all of which I'm really not too happy about. The only "relief" for the forge's exterior paint I could find was in leaving the front door wide open, which I presume didn't make for very efficient forging. (Please see attached photos) I'm going to be sending these pictures to the manufacturer as well for their opinion, but I would really love to know very simply at this point: is this sort of wear normal for commercial gas forges like this? Just a bit disheartening seeing this kind of exterior wear on a very expensive gas forge that was just given to me brand new and I feel really bad that it looks like this after two sessions. Appreciate your input. Thanks!

Mistake #16b (or #18b) - For those doing 2-4 fire brick forges, myself included: attempting to handle HOT fire bricks which don't show their color either (i.e. picking one up that got knocked onto the ground, but with your bare hands). Trust me...I know.

Been digging around in that thread for a little while and some other threads on kiln wash. Just to be clear, if I can fork over the $100 for some zirconia-containing wash (ITC-100), it would be worth the investment in preventative maintenance? Also, are we talking about coating the entire thing, or just the floor? And how much? The liner in this thing is hearth pad/brick, except for the door: that's some kind of insulation blanket. Hoping to fire up the forge again soon, but can't recall being able to get the stock I was using up to a yellow heat; mostly bright orange. I may try increasing the PSI next time (12 PSI was factory recommended default for starting out) but am wondering if the kiln wash may also yield any insulation/re-radiating benefits to contribute to this as well.

"Root" as in occupying that space myself or the metal I'm working? I do have a Bernzomatic TS8000 I plan to heat my small anvil surface area with and can probably keep a heated railroad spike in an adjacent hole near the top. The area itself is pretty open, I don't plan on hanging out near the forge to stay warm as it's nearby my indoor workroom with a heater in it I can duck into. The blower is a B-Air VP-20 that will be set up near where I work to draw stagnant air in and push it away from the work area. It shouldn't affect the heat in the forge. Good to know. Also, I have a 40lb. tank so hopefully it won't freeze up too quickly either. Thanks guys for your input. Always appreciated!

Winter is coming. Any concerns using the propane gas forge outdoors in 30°F weather? Have an air mover I'm considering setting up for additional circulation since the last time it seemed there were caramel-like odors that seemed to just linger in the air.

Ended up passing on the anvil due to time constraint. We were only passing through the area during a short stay in California.

I guess the main concern I'd have with it is watching the horn break off after a few taps if those cracks might be any indication...

Thanks. Any concerns with the horn? I do notice chipping underneath there.

Description: 19" Long, 11" Tall Price: $400 firm Pictures:

Sorry, not sure if this is the right place to post this, but any thoughts before I start putting serious thought towards making this [100# anvil] my own? [Commercial link removed] Would be happy to update this post with actual pictures if I do get it.

From the company: "From the pictures I would guess that your flame was also burning inside of your tube, causing it to burn off. You need to make sure that on start up you open the valve a good 2 times at igniting. This makes sure the gas is blowing through the burner verses burning inside of it." Guess I'll try that as well.

Adding to my winter project list: rail system for hauling 85 lb. forge up a set of stairs.

Now just to reiterate, I was forging outdoors and have no intentions of ever forging indoors, "nor do I think I'd want to if I had [a workshop]." I'm about 70% convinced it might be mild metal fume fever, but perhaps someone can help confirm. These two rods I was forging yesterday are from the same stock. It was a longer piece that I picked up at a garage sale that appears to have been a water shutoff rod (curb key, etc.), albeit a rather tall one. I sanded a section here a little bit. Can anyone identify what the coating here looks like (if not rust)? Particularly the bottom of the two that has sort of a bronze tint almost. Great points! Yeah, I'm about there myself. Have plenty of files given to me to build tools, knives, etc. with as well as an indoor workbench project for the winter months ahead. Thanks for the encouragement! Just need to come up with a list of small item projects now

I don't have a workshop to put a forge in, nor do I think I'd want to if I had one. [I shall see how long I can weather this winter when I don't get to forge like all the rest of you Torbjörn Åhmans.] Anyways, I have a respirator that was given to me (AOSafety mask with R53HE-P100 cartridges) but some research shows this company has been absorbed into 3M and cartridges are no longer available, except for a premium on Amazon, eBay, etc. Any idea on how long these things last? The only possible marking remotely resembling any kind of expiration date is a stamp with the following numbers in green: 102403 (good through Oct. 24, '03???) I'm currently looking at this Miller LPR-100 said to filter 99.7% of welding fumes and mists. I also do some MIG welding and am hoping it will fit under my welding helmet. I was wondering if something like the Miller LPR-100 would be appropriate while operating my gas forge outdoors in regards to CO2, metal fumes, etc. or if something else would be better. I realize it may be less of a concern for some operating a gas forge outdoors. However, yesterday's sudden onset of stomach aches seemed to coincide with taking off my current mask outdoors after forging, and the open air which smelled like burnt caramel. Or it might have been purely coincidental with a stomach bug going around right now. Either way, I feel like I need to get a proper fume respirator for ongoing work. Appreciate all your input. Thanks!