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Transporting Stock in PVC Tubes


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Howdy all,

I am thinking about putting together a 10' long pvc tube to strap to the top of my vehicle. I plan to use this to carry stock in from trips to the scrap yard. What I'm unsure about however, is how to attach the caps to the PVC tube. One will obviously need to be removable. If I'm driving around, the metal would slid around a bit (to a degree I'm sure). This would likely create the occasional force against one of the end caps. I would hate to have a cap come off while driving, resulting in long pieces of metal flying everywhere.

Has anyone else done this? What did you use? How did it work?

I do have an 8' trailer, but to be honest I don't really like the idea of driving the trailer to the scrap yard. It would be very hard to maneuver and find good parking...

Thanks for any insight!

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they make screw in caps ...you can always put (stuff) a over size piece of foam in each end;or over the stock to jam it inside. Are you planning on using 1",2" 3" or 4" pvc pipe?
I think if you made it 10 ' long I put a screw off cap on each end, just to make it easy to get in and out of

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As an electrician I have tubes on the service truck. WARNING metal ends. the metal WILL go through the plastic PVC ends, I know. had to stop fast, I did, the conduit in the tube kept going, right on through the pvc caps.

the tubes are great. the foam may stop noise, but it won't stop inertia and forward momentum.

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Steve,

I see them on plumbing and electrical trucks all the time. Thanks for the anecdotes. Do you think it is just a 'bad idea' in general to try and transport stock this way? I was thinking about 3-6" PVC. Right now I am working on a small fence, and I want to pick up about 20 sections of 1/4" round stock.

We have an SUV that is mainly the family van type of vehicle. This is what I was planning to strap them to. Maybe I could just feed it inside the vehicle, and then not have to worry about the stock busting out of the PVC or getting the inside of the vehicle dirty, scratched or torn up...

I almost dropped about 2k for a diesel truck a while back, mainly for this very type of thing, but I just couldn't justify the cost of the solution :)

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The concern of damage is NOT to YOUR vehicle. If the PVC is strapped to a roof rack and you have to emergency stop, you have created a launching tube for a missile.

Some 4 inch PVC drain pipe under the SUV seats keeps the inside of the vehicle clean and keeps things contained so they do not roll around.

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The concern of damage is NOT to YOUR vehicle. If the PVC is strapped to a roof rack and you have to emergency stop, you have created a launching tube for a missile.


Yes, I am very aware of that.

Some 4 inch PVC drain pipe under the SUV seats keeps the inside of the vehicle clean and keeps things contained so they do not roll around.


Yeah, thats what I was thinking above.
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The best idea I've seen for general use is a clamp-type rubber coupler (Fernco, for example) on the PVC with a wooden plug clamped in the open end of the coupler. Still not sure I'd trust it mounted on the roof of a vehicle.

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Stock transportation is not really that bigga deal. I only stow 10's in the shop ( unless 3/16 square and they are cold 12's ). Consequently if I have to transport in Nissan, I just duct tape 10' bundles together. Roof rack on the Chevy stepside is same game. Sometimes a piece of 4" channel is nice to put good sized bundles in. Duct taped together and then tied to roof rack works nicely. Prevents issues with sudden stops. I also sometimes use quack tape for bundle cutting.

Edited by Ten Hammers
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I have a piece of rebar hanging in the middle of the frame on my pickup. I run the sticks underneath hook them over the middle piece then use bungees or rope to tie to the bumper front and rear. I tie to the middle of the bumper on the rear which causes the bundle to bend. This assists in keeping the stock under MY truck. ;) so even if it gets loose you are only likely to puncture a tire.

Lest you think thats fine if you have a pickup, it was really fun to do the same thing in an 83 BMW 320i. The new hands at the steelyards are always amazed.

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Thanks for the link for the kit, and all the general feedback. I had not thought about going under at all. I really like this idea and will definitely explore it as an option with the SUV. One of the local scrap yards is open on Saturday for a few hours and has a wide and open parking area, so I might just use the trailer then. I'll probably tape 'em together though, as I want to get 20+ sections.

Great feed back and great ideas. Thanks all :)

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If you want to stop the bars sliding forward, i've used a bucket on each end tied together with a rope to stop the bars sliding forward, then lash the bundle down to whatever,

If you really want to be serious about the set up, and doubt a bucket is man enough to stop being perforated, you coud use the bottom end end of an old oxy cylinder with a couple of holes drilled in to attach the rope to, or even fabricate one up,

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Hey all,

Is going under with the load legal? I'm pretty sure in Washington you're not allowed to secure a load beneath your rig. (wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong tho . . . nor the last :D)

While the bars won't act like air-launched missiles, wouldn't it be way more susceptible to getting hung up in something if it's slung underneath?

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on a p/u i built small reciever type brackets so the arms were removable and you could carry stock on the passenger side of vehicle.on front we boxed the shoe in and just used yokes in the middle and on the rear.only problem was that the passanger had to get out on drivers side,but material was accessable and for those with bad knees and backs, this worked well. hope this is clear as mud, jimmy

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