Tock Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Can’t get it to dial in what to do? Not enough oxygen and I don’t have electricity in garage or a air compressor. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 WHAT IS THE REGULATOR SET TO? AND WHY POST THE SAME ISSUE MULTIPLE TIMES? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 For one thing, your mixing tube is too short; it is supposed to by nine times the pipes ACTUAL inside diameter. Actual inside diameters of pipe are always larger than its call-out size. Nine diameters between the reducer and the end of the pipe. Worse is your flame nozzle; it has no taper and it has no spacer ring; it needs one or the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Acquire a proven set of plans and follow them. There's too much wrong with your first wing it burner to try and correct. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 First and foremost lets address the issue that will kill you if you attempt to use that forge. RIDGIDIZE YOUR BLANKET!!!!!!! now to the burner. Lile mikey said your flare needs flared and your mixing tube is to short. Also the pipe you are using for a gas feed is to large and blocking oxygen from being pulled in. If i remember the reil plans correctly they call for a 1/8" nipple there to allow more air flow. We also dont know what size orriface you drilled im guessing its way to large i would recomend a #72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tock Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 On 1/20/2018 at 8:11 PM, ThomasPowers said: WHAT IS THE REGULATOR SET TO? AND WHY POST THE SAME ISSUE MULTIPLE TIMES? I am new to the site and didn’t think it uploaded my pictures so I tried it 2 more times. SORRY dude! I am building a ron reil burner exactly to spec this time not just scraps that I had laying around in my garage. I will ridgidize my blanket I looked at the post on that. Do I just use refractory cement for that? I thought it was ok for less than $19 but now I realize that shortcuts aren’t working. Few more bucks to spend on this thing but i will keep building till I get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 23 minutes ago, Tock said: i will keep building till I get it right. To do that read through the stickies Forges 101 and Burners 101. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcornell Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 3 hours ago, Tock said: I am new to the site and didn’t think it uploaded my pictures so I tried it 2 more times. SORRY dude! I am building a ron reil burner exactly to spec this time not just scraps that I had laying around in my garage. I will ridgidize my blanket I looked at the post on that. Do I just use refractory cement for that? I thought it was ok for less than $19 but now I realize that shortcuts aren’t working. Few more bucks to spend on this thing but i will keep building till I get it right. Look up "fumed silica powder" on Amazon or EBay - it's a lot cheaper to mix your own rigidizer than to buy the premade stuff and pay for shipping all that water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EspenL Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Tock, I recently read through the Forges 101 one and a half time to get my head around how to build a forge. If you haven't done so, I highly recommend it. Rigidizing is done by spritzing a rigidizer on the ceramic insulation blanket after installing it. The rigidizer can for instance be "fumed silica powder" in water and some food coloring for increased visibility. After drying out you use the burner to set it. You'll find more details in the Forges 101 thread. In addition to rigidizing, it is adviced that you line the inside of the forge with refractory. This protects the insulation from damage, makes it last longer, and prevents fibers being dislodged and causing harm to you. Finally, some people use a kiln wash after lining with refractory. This thin layer helps reflect heat back from the walls and heat whatever you are working with. Hope this was clarifying, and if I said something wrong, I'm sure some more experienced members will correct me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tock Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 14 minutes ago, EspenL said: Tock, I recently read through the Forges 101 one and a half time to get my head around how to build a forge. If you haven't done so, I highly recommend it. Rigidizing is done by spritzing a rigidizer on the ceramic insulation blanket after installing it. The rigidizer can for instance be "fumed silica powder" in water and some food coloring for increased visibility. After drying out you use the burner to set it. You'll find more details in the Forges 101 thread. In addition to rigidizing, it is adviced that you line the inside of the forge with refractory. This protects the insulation from damage, makes it last longer, and prevents fibers being dislodged and causing harm to you. Finally, some people use a kiln wash after lining with refractory. This thin layer helps reflect heat back from the walls and heat whatever you are working with. Hope this was clarifying, and if I said something wrong, I'm sure some more experienced members will correct me! Thank you for your help look forward to furthering the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 That's pretty darned well said EspenL, lots of the guys who've been doing this for a while don't explain it as clearly. Well done. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 @Tock, please don’t quote the entire comment you’re replying to — it eats up bandwidth, slows page loading for our members who use dial-up, and makes the forum harder to read for everyone. If you’re replying to something specific, highlight it and click the “quote this” button that will appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotoMike Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Tock, that is going to be a great forge once you get it sorted. I like the construction and your door set up. see you have it shown with the burner at 12 o'clock and at about 10 oclock. On my next one I will put it off to the 10 o'clock or so spot. I've had a few times when there was not enough breeze blowing through the garage that the plume of exhaust got taken back in through the burner intake. caused it to cut out and had me perplexed till Frosty set me straight. If off to the side, it would be less likely to ingest the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Rerunning exhaust through a burner spikes CO production too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EspenL Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks Frosty. Glad I got it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 On 1/20/2018 at 11:30 PM, Mikey98118 said: Worse is your flame nozzle; it has no taper and it has no spacer ring; it needs one or the other. Hi Mikey - so both together would not be a good idea? I'm rebuilding my forge and casting the nozzle into the Kastolite 30. I've turned a mold plug on the lathe and it's shape has some spacer distance built in and the 12-1 taper. The "more is better" theory being applied. LOL Should I put it back on the lathe and lose the spacer distance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Hi John, There is nothing wrong with both together; it would mostly boil down to convenience. What does matter is how much the total increased difference in area is; not how you arrive there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks for the answer Mikey. Maybe see you at a future casting meeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Let me know before coming and I will make a real effort to come to one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I'm looking to be there Saturday. Might be too short a notice for you. Then I'm going to work at getting to the next several, before my kids' schedules begin to interfere during the summer again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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