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I Forge Iron

EspenL

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Everything posted by EspenL

  1. Sorry, I should have included a citation to the question which I answered. For the reference, the question was whether it would work to add a second empty tank to the reservoir. The new tank wouldn't add new liquid propane, thus having much effect on the time to freezing.
  2. Does not apply and won't work. The propane is stored as a liquid in the tanks, with propane gas above the liquid surface. When the pressure drops, more liquid evaporates to gas until the tank pressure is restored. If you manifold two tanks together, you will equalise the pressure between them, but that won't transfer liquid propane between the tanks. For manifolds to help against freezing, there needs to be liquid propane in both the tanks. That gives you more surface area to warm up the propane liquid that cools as evaporation takes place.
  3. It's important to be skeptical and not accept all information from the producers without consideration. But if I have access to two products: One that is known to be carcinogenic and one that is developed to be a less harmful alternative, I would still use the latter given that the price is more or less the same here. I wouldn't work with regular glass wool either without respiratory protection, so having to protect myself does not speak much against Isofrax 1400 for me at least. A package is on it's way to me. Hopefully the performance is on par with Kaowool, or I have done a mistake. Cheers
  4. True. I wouldn't use this without a respirator, but the same goes for regular fiber glass insulation. I should have ended the title of this post with a question mark. Still, I would prefer to use a product that is not (yet?) rated as carcinogenic when the alternative is a product we know is carcinogenic.
  5. Hi In my search for a supplier of Kaowool or similar in Norway, I finally found a supplier of a similar product from another brand. However, after i received an offer for their current product, with clear warnings of the health hazards, the sales person got back to me that they recently got a new product that is less harmful. The product can handle up to 1400C/2552F. From the press release Thought I'd post it here if anyone are interested. http://www.unifrax.eu.com/web/goldminev2.nsf/ByUNID/AA2D17D0F8CA701A80257BB2005055AD?OpenDocument&msg= Note: I am not in any way affiliated with this company. I am in fact about to get quite a bit poorer because of them, since smallest order quantity is one roll... Ouch. Here is the data sheet http://www.unifrax.eu.com/web/goldminev2.nsf/p1_ds.pdf and Safety data sheet: http://www.unifrax.eu.com/web/Audit.nsf/ByUNID/A61BB0ACAF204B89852582200053068F/$File/Unifrax SDS Isofrax 1400 V1.00 (GB-en) 170403.pdf Anyone with experience reading safety data sheets that can comment?
  6. Tock, I recently read through the Forges 101 one and a half time to get my head around how to build a forge. If you haven't done so, I highly recommend it. Rigidizing is done by spritzing a rigidizer on the ceramic insulation blanket after installing it. The rigidizer can for instance be "fumed silica powder" in water and some food coloring for increased visibility. After drying out you use the burner to set it. You'll find more details in the Forges 101 thread. In addition to rigidizing, it is adviced that you line the inside of the forge with refractory. This protects the insulation from damage, makes it last longer, and prevents fibers being dislodged and causing harm to you. Finally, some people use a kiln wash after lining with refractory. This thin layer helps reflect heat back from the walls and heat whatever you are working with. Hope this was clarifying, and if I said something wrong, I'm sure some more experienced members will correct me!
  7. Ok, thanks. Hopefully they can provide both!
  8. I found a site for home-pizza ovens and have sent a request for them. I see one of the products supplied is ceramic fiber blanket rated for 1260C. Is that enough for our purpose? It sounds a little low to me.
  9. You might be more right than you realise Frosty. A few days ago he was charged with two counts of possession of an explosive device.
  10. That's a good idea coops1911. Further: I found a suplier of ceramic insulation blanket in china. I don't ask you to vouch for this particular seller or his country, but if anyone had any experience with ordering ceramic insulation from China it would be great to know. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-Fiber-Insulation-Blanket-Wool-CeraChem-2600-F-Thermal-Ceramic-Various/182781819854?hash=item2a8ea53bce:m:mnyaG7dK_vSSa0ZCQcPymmw I noticed that the title says 2600F/1426C while the text below says 2400F/1315C. Not too trustworthy, but I have contacted the seller anyway to see if I can get the data sheet.
  11. Thanks, yes I was referring to the doors. Particularly the way you hold them in place. Cast refractory doors wouldn't be much better with regards to being a heat sink, so soft fire bricks might be just as well. Sewer pipes we have. Thanks for the tip Binesman. Bluesman7: Thanks. Sheet metal may be a viable alternative then.
  12. I live in the wettest city in Europe. Not much irrigation piping here. But thanks for the tip! I'll stop by a car mechanic and ask if they have empty an empty freon tank though.
  13. Thanks for the feedback, and I'll be sure to get plenty of pictures. Both of the building and the heat when we get that far. As for door I will certainly try to cast one, but to keep it simple I'll probably go for sliding blocks as in the picture above. So far I have not had any luck in finding an empty helium tank, but I'll keep looking for some time. Irondragon Forge & Clay (what a mouthful), are you happy with that solution? If I'm out of luck: does anyone have experience/know of a build using sheet metal and pop rivets? Welding sheet metal is not an option as I only have access to a stick welder. I'm generally fairly accomplished at making things, but my only experience with welding was 15 years ago Back then I made a rebar and oil drum barbecue while the guests and the lamb were waiting. It wasn't pretty, but no one got hurt.
  14. Thanks Frosty and Binesman. I'll go forward and order the materials then. Shipping times are long, but hopefully I am well into the construction when the spring comes.
  15. Hi, this is my first post here. First of all, thank you for an impressive amount of information. I have been reading through most of the pinned threads here and am deligted to find so much good information. For those of you who don't care to read a long post, please skip to the text in bold below. This is what I really want to get input on. I have started a rather slow process of getting started with blacksmithing. I am not in a rush as it is winter and I am yet to build a new workshop since we moved. Most things are clear to me by now, but getting the materials is a real pain in the neck here in Noway. We have a very small domestic market, and since we're outside the EU many products are expensive to ship. I have located reasonable sources of most of the things I need. Some I will order from Wayne here at the forum and some I have found on ebay. But the refractory I would like to get here. I have not been able to find anyone selling Cast-O-Lite 30, but there is a local producer that makes a product called Borgcast 85. It compares well to Cast-O-lite 30 in most aspects apart from the thermal conductivity: 1.9 W/m*K at 1000C for Borgcast 85 vs 0.65 W/m*K for Kast-o-lite 30. Can anyone comment on whether this will be an issue? I am planning to insulate with 2" Kaowool, but am worried about the liner becoming a heat sink if I use Borgcast 85. For those curius, here are the rest of the numbers: (Borgcast 85 vs Cast-O-lite 30) -Alumina content: 83% vs 56.6% for for Kast-o-lite 30. -Maximum recommended temperature 1700C/3092F. vs 1650°C/3000F -Permanent Linear Change Borgcast 85: - after firing at 110C: 0% - after firing at 1200C: -0.3% - after firing at 1400C -0,4% - after firing at 1600C: -0,4% Kast-o-lite: After 220°F (105°C) Nil After 1500°F (815°C) -0.2 After 2000°F (1095°C) -0.2 After 2500°F (1370°C) +2.0 After 2910°F (1599°C) +1.0 -Modulus of Rupture and Cold crushing strength CCS: 130MPa vs 17.2MPa for Kast-O-Lite 30 MoR: 16-20 vs 5.5MPa For the rest of the forge the plan is as follows: Shell: Helium tank or other empty vessel I can get hold of. Gas tanks are expensive here (>$100), so that is not an option. Insulation: Kaowool from WAYNE COE Rigidizer: Fumed silica from ebay (Cab-O-Sil M5). Dissolved in water with food coloring and spritzed on the insulation. Then fire with the burner to set. Kiln wash: Plistix IR reflective from Wayne, or Zirconium silicate (Zirkosil) from a domestic provider. Burner: Black pipe and fittings are not easy to get here. We use plastic for water pipes and there is no residential gas. In an eager moment I bought a 1" burner from Alec Steele. Yada yada! But I found his site first, and it was his enthusiasm that eventually brought me here! I later realized that I could probably buy stainless pipes and fittings from china and make one myself for much cheaper, but done is done... Regulator: Propane regulator from local gas supplier. Using 11L barbecue tanks it will supply up to 30 psi and a bit more than 2kg per hour. Using industrial tanks is as far as I understand not practical/possible for private persons here. I am in any case limited in tank size, as the tanks have to be carried up steep stairs from the road. If I get trouble with freezing I can connect two tanks in parallel. I have verified that parts for that are available here. Hoping I have done my homework well, and looking forward to your input! Borgcast 85.pdf
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