Its a bit of an inside joke with my wife. When we first bought a M35a2, I needed a drum brake for the winch & she's much better at hunting down parts than I am. Except that she spelled it as wench instead of winch. She flat couldn't figure out why she kept getting porn as search results. 

I was almost on the ground laughing. Its been a wench ever since. 

 

 

I've been expressly forbidden from having more than 2 anvils. Under penalty of, I'd rather not mention.....

Most I've ever spent on an anvil is US$350; I have a feeling that keeping your winch support running ran a bit more than that...

Just a smidgen. Ok, a very big smidgen. 

I parted ways with the army truck. It was a maintenance hog & everything was huge, heavy, & generally expensive.  

So I got this little diamond in the rough. 

1983 cj5 

258 inline 6

T-176 

Dana 300 (short tail shaft)

Dana 30 (wide track)

Amc 20 with a lunch box locker 

It wasnt running (well sorta running barely), or moving. 

 

In the last few weeks I've fixed most the mechanical issues.  The clutch material was rusted to both the flywheel and pressure plate.  So new clutch assembly.  Carb was flat wore out. Replaced with a new Weber 32/36. Plugs & wires. New accel coil (DUI distributor coming later). New magnaflow underneath.  New rubber (off the bronco which is dead for now). New besttop super top. Fresh gear oil all the way around (the pictures should explain why).  Some other odds & ins.  Gots to do a rear wheel bearing & seal tonight.  Also thinking & talking to a buddy about doing a 4.0l stroker to drop in it. 

Fun lil project. Looks like they were using mud mined from the bottom of an outhouse for gear oil. 

yep. Been calling it chocolate milk & mustard pudding.  

 

The transfer case  was like rancid poached eggs in a peanut butter cream  sauce.

 

Front axle looked good though. 

All of the axles and transmission bits on my M-715 are vented to the air cleaner to prevent water from getting into them as part of the fording kit the Army had on it.

I take it the seals are all good because they held all that slop in instead of letting it run out

its an old 2004 Gand Cherokee but i love it, complete V8 engine rebuild 5 years ago,.   I could not believe the 5800# tow wt but I have hauled 2 ton of coal with it on a 1050# trailer, from 80 miles away

 

Got a new one added to the family not to long ago. 

 

1969 cj5. Dauntless 225 v6. T14 trans. Dana 18 t-case. Dana 27 front axle. Offset Dana 44 rear axle. 

 

Hadn't run in 30 years or so, but I managed to get it going again. Still gonna need a full tear down. And a ton of body work, but it's a good start. 

 

Would be happening sooner, but the wife decided that we needed a pair of 59 ford f100's to work on as well. 

Abslutely love that engine! 

Likewise. 

Thinking hard about finding one for the 83 cj as well. Maybe the whole drive train. As I really dont care for the AMC 20 that's in it. 

A local  has two 1965 Jeeps for sale. One is complete and running with the original 4 banger. Not stock, and has had some modifications done. And the second one is a rolling shell, but he has a 4.3 Vortec and auto that he also had for sale.  He was asking $7,000 , and $700. The Engine and trans with the computer $85. Looking to lighten the load before moving. No interest for me, as my 4x4 project is a 56 Imperial that I want to put on a second gen Dodge 2500, or 3500 4x4 with a Cummins and a stick. A single cab long bed is the perfect wheelbase, so no frame shortening needed.

I really am a glutton for punishment. Bought another one. But I got pretty lucky with it. This is gonna be for "Poject 83 Abomination".

 

1970 Jeep cj5. Dauntless 225 v6, T-14 trans, dana 18 t-case, dana 27 up front, offset flanged dana 44 (no two piece shafts on this one) out back, has 3:73 gears & maybe a track lock in the rear. 

Runs & scoots under its own power, sorta. The carb is in need of some attention. Clutch is toast. Needs new rings & valves. Good oil pressure. A rebuild is in order. 

The drive train is going into the 83 cj5. I'm hoping to shoehorn the T-176 in place of the T-14, or go with a Saturn overdrive unit. Going to keep the 4" lift & 33"s on it currently.  New skid plates & some other small changes. 

 

The a bunch of the left overs will be going to the 69. Which is missing a ton of small parts as it turns out.

Doing this as I kinda put a rod through the 258 in the 83 & this on was cheap & has no title.    

 

Dear All,

When I moved into our current property I found in the barn (soon to be my shop) a number of what appear to be Jeep parts.  There are 4 wheels, what appears to be a skid plate, and some kind of brace. See pics below.  They appear to be new/unused, just dusty from sitting in a horse barn for many years. I will give them to anyone who wants or can use them and who may be passing through Laramie, WY.  We are about a half mile from I-80.  I could also easily take them down to our former home in Ft. Morgan, CO (on I-76, about halfway between Denver and Nenraska) to be picked up.

Yes, I know I could probably put them on Craig's List or put an ad in the local paper and make a few bucks but I would rather avoid that hassle (and I have no idea of their value to put a fair price on them) and pass them on to my IFI family.  Also, I could use the space in the shop.

If anyone is interested please PM me.

George

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Tuned up my old 1953 Willy's Overland M38A1 Jeep. I drive it to the mail box in good weather a 3/4 mile round trip on my gravel driveway. Yesterday it wasn't running right, lack of power, backfiring, coughing etc. A little hill that I could usually make up it in second gear took first gear to make it up.
I started checking it out thinking it needed points, condenser, distributor cap & rotor. They were in great shape. It was acting like it may have jumped timing. Nope checked that, checked the plug wires all good. I finally got around to pulling the spark plugs. Holy cow were they fouled with carbon. The plugs that were in it were AC R45s. Got to checking my spark plug inventory and I didn't have any. I did find 4 Champion RJ12Y plugs. HMMM they are a couple of steps hotter than the AC plugs so I thought it couldn't hurt to have a hotter plug. Put them in, fired it up and adjusted the carburetor. What a difference it was running just fine. I drove it to the mail box and made the hill in second gear no problem. It's good to have the old girl back

Lesson learned, check the plugs first.

You need to get that thing out on the highway and do as my Dad often said when the car was balking..."I gotta go blow the soot out of the xxxx thing" LOL

When my parents were living in the Netherlands the BMW dealership would advise them to take their BMWs out on the autobahn once a month and let them "Breathe Deeply" to reduce carbon deposits...

I can guarantee that "blowing the soot out" works.  Every time he did that, the old Cheby purred like a kitten. 

We got a new Cheby with the 283 V-8 (back in the early '60s).  Ran like a turpentined cat.  It got a bit sluggish one time (Dad was burning the cheapest, low octane gas he could buy...) so I took it out one Saturday nite on a date and "blew the soot out".  What I actually did was blow a HUGE hole in the muffler!!  When I came home and pulled in the carport, the car sounded like a NASCAR racer at Daytona!  I told my Dad it just had a big backfire...I don't really know if I got away with that or not.........

Fleur di lis , what do you mean by Saturn overdrive unit?

Ahh, just saw that was from 2020...

 

The Saturn overdrive is a fully synchronized unit that can be shifted-on-the-fly. I've always heard of them as a Warn overdrive.

OK, I have owned several Saturn cars, didn't know if they were adapting something from them.

 

 "blowing the soot out"

  Back in Nebraska we called that "blowin the cobs out".  Preventive maintenance....

As a kid in S. Cal. we called it burning out the carbon.

Another old school car thing was to warm the engine up before draining the oil, then filling the crank case with kerosene and driving it around the block a few times to cut the sludge. Drain, change the filter and refill with good old 30wt detergent motor oil. Everybody ran 30wt. unless you had a diesel engine. 

Frosty The Lucky.

An old trick my grandfather showed me about de-carbonizing an engine, was to run it at high idle and slowly pour water in the carburetor. I've done that a few times to get small engines up to par and it works a treat.

Cruising the beach at Sandy Neck on Cape Cod and packed up for a trip to Florida from Mass.

 

Scoot