jlpservicesinc

Portable Blacksmith shop

74 posts in this topic

4 hours ago, Abby Babby said:

Holy Hammers that is an incredible build! And you did this all on your own? Amazing. Man, I wished I knew you back then. I'd of packed up the dogs and Sandra and we'd come up to help. Sandra would probably tell me to go play nice, work hard, have fun and I'll see you when you get back. She's more of a planter garden person. When I was a Marine I knew I'd been home to long when she'd ask me "Isn't there a war or somewhere you need to go do your snipper stuff, maybe go on a Med float so you can bring home some rugs from Morocco,  something" 

That anvil stand is genius engineering,  I don't think I would have thought of that.

When I grow up I want to be as talented as you.

Regards 

Thanks Abby Babby,  That would have been great.. :)..    After working  in trailers for many years I really wanted to fix all the the problems I had experienced.. #1 was smoke, soot and cinder control (why all the awnings and vented roof with a real stack) 2, floor bounce ( my knees used to get really sore working in the other trailers) and the anvil bouncing just took 5-10X longer to make anything..3,  a solidly mounted vise, 4  a work bench.. All of these little fixes have made this trailer amazing to work in.. I still get some bounce in the anvil stand even with it solidly on the ground,(because of the length and taper) but will be remaking it this year as I have the new anvil so will need a stand that fits it..   I would love to find a rectangular thick wall tube 10X13X40" is what I need.. 11X13" would be perfect.. but a really wacky size.. 

Well, I kind of decided I want it 4more feet longer..  When I built it, because of time I really just wanted it to be done..  The amount of time to build it was astronomical.. Anyhow, the 4 ft longer will allow for a little storage, room for the foot hammer and a little more room around the vise.. 

 

By the way all the videos have been shot in the trailer.. :)     I'm getting more serious about getting the new shop up put a deposit on a steel building 6 years ago.. LOL.. and finally getting everything in order..   Will be a 40X60 with 4 work stations for teaching.. :) 

All ready have 2 demo's booked...  Hoping to get a few more.  Thanks again.. 

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Wow! My fragile little mind has officially been blown. I'm so jealous! Not only is the trailer setup so awesome, it's also bigger than my tiny smithy! Great job!

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This is such a cool trailer. I have been working my way through your videos and would never have guessed it was in the trailer seems so stable.

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Deposit 6 years ago! Great googly moogly, I hope you get the price from 6 years ago. I looked for that tubing you spoke of, I think you may need to weld that up out of plate. You can't see me but I am worshipping to the North saying "I'm not Worthy, I'm not Worthy" That is a beautiful Anvil. 

Thats amazing to think all the production you can get out of that space. Now with that new anvil you can hammer two handed, one on each anvil.

I think I may do a mobile shop.

 

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On 4/21/2017 at 10:17 AM, mutant said:

Wow! My fragile little mind has officially been blown. I'm so jealous! Not only is the trailer setup so awesome, it's also bigger than my tiny smithy! Great job!

Thanks..  Lots of great stuff has been made in small shops.. I know a guy who is one of the best smiths I know and for 15 years he had like 6x8'... He turned out some great work.. i'm sure you do the same.. Just have to watch the long bars.. :)

 

On 4/21/2017 at 5:07 PM, Zeroclick said:

This is such a cool trailer. I have been working my way through your videos and would never have guessed it was in the trailer seems so stable.

Cool in more than 1 way.. It stays about 10F cooler then outside even with the forge going full tilt.. :)   Thanks..    The anvil being on the ground and loosely held in the thimble with bolts allows for it to float on its own.. That and the fact the trailer has 2X the steel framing and jacks at all 4 corners.. It's amazingly stable..  I shot some video the other day and since mud season is here stuff must have settled some. I could see in the video the anvil was bouncing a little bit, the bolts were a little tight and holding up the anvil.. I had to loosen the thrust bolts, wiggle the anvil base and tighten them back up.. 

On 4/21/2017 at 7:47 PM, Abby Babby said:

Deposit 6 years ago! Great googly moogly, I hope you get the price from 6 years ago. I looked for that tubing you spoke of, I think you may need to weld that up out of plate. You can't see me but I am worshipping to the North saying "I'm not Worthy, I'm not Worthy" That is a beautiful Anvil. 

Thats amazing to think all the production you can get out of that space. Now with that new anvil you can hammer two handed, one on each anvil.

I think I may do a mobile shop.

 

yup.. I know it right..  I call the guy every so often just to confirm we are still good..  There was a major mix up on their part so they said the price would be the same and they would hold the price for a few years.. 

My metal guy will order what I want for me..  I could also go with I beam and that would take care of a center support like in the old design. 

I really would prefer a down and dirty approach to the stand this time around.. I figure I can split the stand at the parting line now and just weld on the tubing..  The base plate for the anvil is 1" and if you look at the bolts it is super strong.. I'd love to mount the new anvil in a similar fashion but a slight design change for the upsetting block.. 

No bows needed, it was a super good deal on Zoro.com   25% off.. the 2000 asking price with free delivery..  all the models were on sale.. I just like my anvils large.  I've never bought a new car in my life.. I figured I would at least buy a new anvil..  I'm still on the hunt for my next new one for the shop when the time comes.. :)  

 

If you have time and the skills and the money to build something like this trailer it really is pretty nice to work in..  Instead of having to have a building that is taxable, it costs me nothing to own for the foreseeable future.. It has new rubber, so the only thing I will have to contend with is rust but paint is cheap..  12 years from now i will have to register it again.. 

My only gripe about the trailer is I wish it was just a tad bit longer.. again the extra 4 ft for a full 14ft would take care of that.. Which I will do in the upcoming month or so.. if I feel inspired..  

 

(this was a response I started way back.. LOL.. It never got posted..  

anyhow, yesterday I started the new anvil stand..  the one I made previously was cut off at the floor transition and reinforced..  Here are the pictures.. 

 

This 1st picture is from where the trailer has been sitting since last october.. the flotation worked perfect.even with over  6" of mud this past spring..

cutting off the internal center support. Sliced the base off,    1.25" top plate cut to shape,  New 2.25 X 0.25 wall tubing, notched and inset.. Welded in and then braced at the bottom with 3/8"X6" plate It makes contact with the bottom to stop the bouncing..  The bottom plate with the previous design would bounce slightly even with having the pipe in the middle.. 

The center bracing should take care of most of the bounce and the corner tubes now go all the way to the bottom plate.. 

Then the cover.. Ideally I would want to be able to remove it for maintanince but I can't figure out a good way of mounting it solidly without hours of extra work so it will be welded on and then the stand for the anvil will be welded to that.. Basically making it a 2 part anvil stand or the potential for it.. 

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 This may be a moot question...but, I am wondering if you find your anvil height changes between set-ups? When I saw the footprint of the base from setting it just got me thinkin'...I would guess you can adjust with the leveling jacks on each corner if needed. Also how critical do you think the same anvil height is? I really like your trailer(shop)....I want one.    Thanks           Dave 

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I am actually lost for words. Your work ethic is like none other I have seen. Your engineering is solid and your execution is flawless. And you have a New Anvil! How cool is that? 

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Wow, a complete frame rebuild, added the old skin back, nice work !

I would never even thing of a rebuild like that, Bless your drive !

I didn't read every post, mostly skimmed and looked at the picture...  a picture is a thousand words, and did they ever speak to me !

A question or two, maybe three...  "What is the total weight of this package" and "What is the tongue weight" ?

Is it tongue heavy ?

Just wondering... I won't be building a Smithy Trailer but always wanted a Utility Trailer to go behind my Ranger so just thinking out loud, trash and brush moving, OCD thing, plan ahead !

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7 hours ago, Dave51B said:

 This may be a moot question...but, I am wondering if you find your anvil height changes between set-ups? When I saw the footprint of the base from setting it just got me thinkin'...I would guess you can adjust with the leveling jacks on each corner if needed.

Also how critical do you think the same anvil height is? I really like your trailer(shop)....I want one.    Thanks           Dave 

Hi Dave, While I would like to say this is a simple question it's a multi faceted answer.. 

First. as a beginner the suggested anvil height of standing straight up knuckle height is a great beginning..   No muscle memory.. Same with horn direction..   Best is to experiment both with height and horn direction..    I'm a righty but have my horn to the right..    I started with the horn to the left and find it's easier with it to the right.. as you work in a circle..    if you look from the top of an anvil there is a center line that runs on the outside of the horn..   this means the left arm will all ready be at the correct angle as you step to the anvil without crossing over the face like the horn on the left for a right handed person.. 

For me.. I found over a few years of forging that I kept lowering my anvil till about 4" lower than this.. Or basically about 31"... 

Neat thing is..While my experience allows for me to adjust somewhat to different heights while working at others forges, I do find I tire rather quickly if the anvil is higher.. Reason is.. I get a full stroke with a lower anvil and get more work done with the full swing.. on a higher anvil I end up short stroking and this is a problem from efficiency.. 

Ok..  It took me about 45minutes looking and measuring the old stand and then looking at the few things I didn't like about it..   The old stand was built as a do all stand and the ears on the corner allow for adding height to it if need be..  What I found is I didn't need to add height.. 

You are correct as to leveling the trailer..    Only problem is: It also changes the viewing area for the people looking.. So while i can change height that way it also raises the side walls..  Basically I accounted for about 4" of adjustment with the anvil/stand.. 

 

If you are a professional smith the anvil height from a production stand point will become crucial..        if you are just puttering around.. it's not such a big deal.. It just means it's not as comfortable to work on..  About 4hrs is all I can take then I want to cut the stump shorter.. :)  

 

Thanks.. 

 

 

4 hours ago, Abby Babby said:

I am actually lost for words. Your work ethic is like none other I have seen. Your engineering is solid and your execution is flawless. And you have a New Anvil! How cool is that? 

Thanks..  I try..   :)     Yup.. It's installed.. Well just about.. Need to make a few bolts and a few more gussetts and hardie holder.. oh and install the tray.. 

4 hours ago, Scrambler82 said:

Wow, a complete frame rebuild, added the old skin back, nice work !

I would never even thing of a rebuild like that, Bless your drive !

I didn't read every post, mostly skimmed and lod at the picture...  a picture is a thousand words, and did they ever speak to me !

A question or two, maybe three...  "What is the total weight of this package" and "What is the tongue weight" ?

Is it tongue heavy ?

Just wondering... I won't be building a Smithy Trailer but always wanted a Utility Trailer to go behind my Ranger so just thinking out loud, trash and brush moving, OCD thing, plan ahead !

I never figured out total weight...  My original estimate was around 4700lbs...  The trailer is rated at 7000.. I had planned on adding up all the metal purchased but then got lazy and moved onto other projects..  At some point I'll take it to the gravel pit and put it on the scales..  I have it chocked full now so it would be nice to know.. 

At this point yes, It is tongue heavy..  right around 400lbs...   I like my tongue weight to be about 200-250 tops....    Problem is with storage and rear axles..   I plan on adding 4ft to the trailer and this will balance things out.. :)  I'll be able to move some of the metal storage and hoist to the rear of the trailer..  

The new anvil and stand will add about 600lbs to the total weight..  Overall it's actually a pretty light build.. Originally the anvil, forge, blower, and vise added about 600-700lbs..

Water I figure i 8lbs per gallon.. My be 25gallons of water.. 200lbs plus container..

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So still a few more things to get done..  But overall " It will kill"... 

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By the way.. The springs still aren't sagging yet.. :) 

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Thanks, the anvil stand is killer, attached to the frame... nice !

 

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4 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

You are correct as to leveling the trailer..    Only problem is: It also changes the viewing area for the people looking.. So while i can change height that way it also raises the side walls..  Basically I accounted for about 4" of adjustment with the anvil/stand..

 Thanks for the reply. So I think you are saying for you.....viewer height is more important than anvil height? I wish I was good enough to be able to accommodate that. Maybe I didn't envision it properly when you stated you have 4" of adjustment in anvil height. I just know when I work on an anvil that is to low...the ole back lets me know in a hurry. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, just admiring you versatility.     Thanks again             Life is Good            Dave  

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So how in the world am I going to choose between looking at the gorgeous Anvil or your work, I'm going to get all dizzy trying to watch all this. The 25 gallons of water @62 deg F will have 5, 775 cubic inches, weight will be 208.5 pounds thats about 2, 273, 045 drops of fresh water in your tank +/- 5 drops. OMG I'm in full Hydrodynamic geek spiral. 

That a nice touch to support that upsetting block. 

Hay on some Anvils I have seen Hardy holes under the Bic, I am assuming that is there for some sort of tooling, am I correct in that assumption. 

Agine,  superb build.

Regards.

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9 hours ago, Dave51B said:

 Thanks for the reply. So I think you are saying for you.....viewer height is more important than anvil height? I wish I was good enough to be able to accommodate that. Maybe I didn't envision it properly when you stated you have 4" of adjustment in anvil height. I just know when I work on an anvil that is to low...the ole back lets me know in a hurry. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, just admiring you versatility.     Thanks again             Life is Good            Dave  

sorry I didn't explain it very well/ correctly..  comfort was my first priority when building the trailer, then view..  

You are correct the trailer going up and down to control height but only to a limited extent,,,,   Here's the reason why:  

Side wall height of the trailer was based on kids looking into the trailer. With a anvil height of 31" +/- 2"    Since everything worked on or forged (scale/flux) moves away in a descending circle the wall will catch roughly 95% of scale, and welding flux and hopefully deflect any cut off metal with the anvil about 31"..

So, while I am In the trailer I am shooting for an anvil height of 31"               This 31" should be right on with the trailer off the tongue  and leveled using the jacks on level ground.. 

Problem is it needs to be adjusted for what ever the terrain is under the trailer since it could be a dirt field, or mud  or uneven dirt, or tar to get to that 31" number and since the stand was based on this 31" number ideally the stand needs more adjustable added in and was the reason for the corner ears on the first stand to slip wooden blocks under the anvil if needed more height.. 

For some reason I'm having a hard time explaining it to my standards..  But...   In this order      anvil height, side wall height, and terrain are the keys..   It's not just anvil height that plays into it as you are moving a platform that is 8'X10' over a given terrain or hill and then creating a level work platform..  The anvil stand might need a block under it.. Or the anvil itself might need a block under it..  

I'm sorry but for some reason I can't explain it as it's more complex than just one thing..  so the simple answer is for what I like "  ideally 31" from top of anvil to the floor is ideal.. 

4 hours ago, Abby Babby said:

So how in the world am I going to choose between looking at the gorgeous Anvil or your work, I'm going to get all dizzy trying to watch all this. The 25 gallons of water @62 deg F will have 5, 775 cubic inches, weight will be 208.5 pounds thats about 2, 273, 045 drops of fresh water in your tank +/- 5 drops. OMG I'm in full Hydrodynamic geek spiral. 

That a nice touch to support that upsetting block. 

Hay on some Anvils I have seen Hardy holes under the Bic, I am assuming that is there for some sort of tooling, am I correct in that assumption. 

Agine,  superb build.

Regards.

Not sure what hole you are referring to..  Early anvils have what are known as handling holes (both under horn and heel, some in feet and some in bottom) and were used to handle the anvil during manufacturing and finishing.. 

But there might also be holes in the anvil like on a chain makers anvil....   

Still a little more to do on the stand.. It will be neat and funky looking when finished.. :) 

Thanks. 

 

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got the stand figured out and moving in the right direction.. should have the bracing done tomorrow and then will start to make the hold down.. 

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12 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

sorry I didn't explain it very well/ correctly..  comfort was my first priority when building the trailer, then view..  

You are correct the trailer going up and down to control height but only to a limited extent,,,,   Here's the reason why:  

Side wall height of the trailer was based on kids looking into the trailer. With a anvil height of 31" +/- 2"    Since everything worked on or forged (scale/flux) moves away in a descending circle the wall will catch roughly 95% of scale, and welding flux and hopefully deflect any cut off metal with the anvil about 31"..

So, while I am In the trailer I am shooting for an anvil height of 31"               This 31" should be right on with the trailer off the tongue  and leveled using the jacks on level ground.. 

Problem is it needs to be adjusted for what ever the terrain is under the trailer since it could be a dirt field, or mud  or uneven dirt, or tar to get to that 31" number and since the stand was based on this 31" number ideally the stand needs more adjustable added in and was the reason for the corner ears on the first stand to slip wooden blocks under the anvil if needed more height.. 

For some reason I'm having a hard time explaining it to my standards..  But...   In this order      anvil height, side wall height, and terrain are the keys..   It's not just anvil height that plays into it as you are moving a platform that is 8'X10' over a given terrain or hill and then creating a level work platform..  The anvil stand might need a block under it.. Or the anvil itself might need a block under it..  

I'm sorry but for some reason I can't explain it as it's more complex than just one thing..  so the simple answer is for what I like "  ideally 31" from top of anvil to the floor is ideal.. 

 It's ok....You did fine, it's just this ole brain of mine is a bit slow soaking up what it is being told. For a bit there, I thought you were some kind of supersmith that anvil height was a minor detail. I am still very impressed with your shop and you skills. Thank you very much for your time explaining.......           Life is Good             Dave

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Anytime Dave.. 

 

So today I was able to get the stand finished and the inside of the trailer back to working shape..   I still need to make the hold down bolts and am heading out to do that just as soon as I get done with this update.. 

Stand came out a little lighter than I thought it would.. Figured it would be around 325 or so.. Came out to 280lbs before adding the hardie holder and articulating shelf.. 

I ran out of the scrap diamond plate and was going to have to cut off a little section.. Decided I had enough and finished it with the smaller side plates.. :) 

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Got the bolts done today..3/4 for the bolts and 5/8" for the bar portion..

 Stand is all painted up and tomorrow I throw a new coat of paint of the floor.. 

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Very cool. 

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Very nice. The best part of being a Blacksmith, you can make youe own hardware to secure your Anvil to the stand you built. 

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That's a beautiful anvil stand. Love the brackets/bolts you made. 

I liked it unpainted but hey. I get it :) 

I'm just a scrap junky and love scraps natural colors. 

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1 hour ago, Abby Babby said:

Very nice. The best part of being a Blacksmith, you can make youe own hardware to secure your Anvil to the stand you built. 

LOL.. Yup.. by far one of the coolest things about being a blacksmith..     Took me a little while to relearn how to get the right measurments and form the eye before welding.. 

 

by number 4 on the stud part I was pretty good.. And then by number 3 of the link/bars I had that down also..     Years back it would have been a no brainer..  Now i have to repeat to myself 100 times what it took to make the eyes and then add in the other measurments..  For the interest of ease..  I figured 2" from the eye center to first leg of bend, then 6" across the anvil base.. and then 2 inches for the second leg..   Add in 2.5" for each eye and thus 15".. LOL..  I did all the math, laid it out, forged one eye around the bolt and then for the life of me I was a complete blank..  Argh..    Poke to the eye, poke to the Eyyyyeeee.... Duh...  I then measured from the eye center and wouldn't you know it I was right on the money.. Of course it only took me 15minutes to figure it out, again, then again..     :) 

50 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

That's a beautiful anvil stand. Love the brackets/bolts you made. 

I liked it unpainted but hey. I get it :) 

I'm just a scrap junky and love scraps natural colors. 

Thanks..

I love paint..  I love old paint.. The stuff where you would get it on you and the skin would peel off after a week of scrubbing with kerosene.. But the paint would still be there..  Ah, I miss those days..   I use rustoleum oil based for everything but it's just not the same.. 

I love old iron and the way it looks to.. I imagine if i lived in the desert I wouldn't paint anything ever.. 

Around here there is so much moisture and with it being basically a steel building on certain days the steel will sweat and everything inside and out will be covered in water.. 

And just to show how much I love paint.. I also painted the floor again.. I keep working at filling in the cracks with paint.. Once this happens I'l sand it all down and give it one more coat to make it all purty and smooth...  Just kidding..   

I have a few more things I want to do to the trailer before it is completely finished and its a work in progress.. :)  

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Looks like that rig is ready to roll. The only difference between your paint choice and what I would have used is Flat Black. My Dad wouldn't allow any other type of paint on steel so now it's a curse. I have to admit I do like the gloss. If I was ever at one of your demos I be like "Pretty hammer, Oh Shiny Anvil"

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