Anachronist58

I Like RivNuts

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I like RivNuts. If one's smithy be a shack, a shed, or a pallet glom, a rivnut and some unistrut for mee's the bom.

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I know that "pretty darn strong" is not a real answer, but I will have to trace back the specs.

As for how they stay in:  See the corrugation on the non-installed nut? That mushrooms out when you draw the nut, as pictured.

Those wrenches, greasy nuts, & greasy washers, stand in for a $260.00 nut drawing tool. The GREASY part is VERY important.

Robert Taylor

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They use them on simi tractor frames...

I have used them to relocate the cross member on a 84 Jeep XY to shoe horn a 700R4 in it. They come in a couple of 3 grades, in steel and aluminum. 

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27 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

They are excellent until they spin with the bolt in them. :angry:

Is there something superior that I can look at? My current application is not a spin risk.

Ah, another specialty tool to look into - A Spunnut Extraction Tool, only $29.95!:rolleyes:

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They use them on cars. The good ones in metal parts are usually good. Cheaper ones not so good. And I pull my hair out when the put them in plastic parts. 

The ones you show look like the good ones as long as you squash them good and they are a snug fit to begin with so those splines do their job. If it isn't coming apart I don't think there would be an issue as long as you start the bolts in proper. 

Your method of installation is my preferred method. I don't like the fancy tool. 

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I have a couple of installing devices for them. One is essentially a bolt with a roller bearing. The other is slightly more complicated but much quicker and easier. The expensive one was only 40 or 50 pounds.

Provided the preparation is good...you have a sharp drill which produces the right size hole and you take off any burrs... I have not managed to get one to spin yet. You could always put a star in the hole edge with a cold chisel if you were making something up which was going to get weathered and need to be dismantled regularly...most of the time I have used them in Box section which protects the threads...and if I was going to be undoing the bolt often I would use a bit of Copper Slip on the threads when assembling.

I suppose you could always melt the edges in with a Tig...if you were really worried about the turning risk.

Alan

 

 

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This hole is reamed and the nut is driven in. By the time I installed #5, I am sure glad I turned my nose up at the 'official' install tool - I'm not on the clock, and this is a 12-off job. There will be no spin here. As long as it's drawn fully down in a good hole, we are phat and happy.

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If you file a little notch or 2 in the hole prior to installing it will crimp into the notch and help prevent the spinning nutsert. 

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Now all of this talk is making me itch to stipple, notch, dimple, knurl, section, and polish some test pieces.

But that's a lot of meat and taters to cough up, so no date of completion is offered.

 

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Those are cool.  I had never seen a Rivnut before.  Thanks for posting.  You showed setting the nut in a open piece of steel (angle iron, maybe) with a bolt and backup nut on the backside.  How do you expand and set it in square tubing like you had pictured?  I have one of those metal carports with the square tubing posts and the rivnuts would be perfect for hanging stuff.

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Arkie, I woke up dreaming this morning about eliminating one of the unwieldy stop wrenches from my design. I will post the upgrade here today, barring any unforseen eventualities.

In order to give you maximum satisfaction, I want to know what size machine screw you have in mind, plus the gauge and dimensions of your square tubing.  

Smaller gauge RivNuts install like pop rivets :).

You COULD get a complete kit from Horrible Fate,  but you might end up with Daswulf's frowniface.

Shown in this thread are 1/2-13 overkill nutserts, but they come in virtually any size, imperial and metric. Below is the link to my Candy Store:

  http://www.ababaqa.com/

Robert Taylor

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Robert,

I would most likely use 1/4" or 3/8" machine screws (or bolts).  The tubing is 12 ga, 2 1/4" square galv. tubing.  Length probably no more than 1" to 1 1/2".

I hit your website sig and now I know how you are so well versed on the Rivnuts! :)

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OK, that dream I dreamed was a good one, less is definitely more:

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Here it is stripped of all the bells & whistles:

 

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The angle isolates the RivNut from rotating. Next you can see how well the high grade ones dig in:

 

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Here's the cheap HF set - aluminum and up to 1/4-20:

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Here is the 3/8-16 from Ababa with $28 install tool:

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And finally here are the not cheap 1/2-13 RivNuts. Someone else bought the cheap ones and made The Vulf mad:

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One can hang quite a bit from a 1/4-20, or a 3/8-16, know your specs, have fun & be safe.

Robert

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Anachronist.

Thanks for the heads up concerning rivet nuts. I was not aware of their existence until now. I checked out the Ababa site you posted but did not see them. Not surprising as I often miss elephants in haystacks. Also, there did not seem to be a search function on the site. (passing strange). your comments/suggestions would be appreciated on this subject.

Wait a minute, maybe you might know of some other vendor that sells quality rivet nuts.

Thanks,

SLAG.

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OK SLAG, let's try this:

http://fasteners.sherex.com/item/nd-rivet-nuts-american-style-rivet-nuts-cal-series/cal-series-steel-inches-/cal2-5013-200

I pulled the stock # from the bag pictured above, and this is the OEM. Please let me know if this site has the functionality you desire.

Ababa's site is only one layer deep, as I too discovered. They are a local full service commercial/industrial supplier - a pleasure to walk in and do business with.

If you hit any snags, give me a shout, 'cause I LIKE RIVNUTS.

Robert Taylor

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Mr. Taylor,

Thank you for your prompt and informative reply. It is appreciated.

Ababa is a little far off as I am presently dwelling in St. Louis, Mo.

I shall try your reference, first thing in the morning.

Adios.

SLAG.

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Yep I got that part figgered out. I spent six weeks in Missouri, Fort Leonard Wood, back in 1976.

Good night.

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These are definitely 'go to  products ' but I've started using 'flowdrill' type product and that works like a dream.

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Flowdrill has a nice website - check it out.

So Ian, where is the video, where are the pics?

Robert

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