navasky Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 I recently found a roller bearing that I thought was the perfect size for a hammer for sheet metal work. A little slitting and drifting later and here it is. The head is a bit over 1 pound and I left the face fairly hard. The handle is apple which turned out to have some beautiful grain near the end, I'm hoping the knots won't weaken it too much. The head is attached with polyurethane glue. I don't use wedges anymore unless it's for aesthetic reasons and I have yet to have a glued head come loose. Thanks for looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsoldat Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Boy that turned out nice. Don't think that knot half way down will weaken it any but it might be a blister point. Might be a little to nice to use, maybe you'd better sent it out this way to hang on the wall and look pretty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Lookin' good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gergely Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Very nice job. I was planning to use some 2 lbs roller bearings to make hammers. I wasn't sure though is 52100 good material for that - have you tried it yet? Any chipping or cracking? Thanks for sharing and best wishes: Gergely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7A749 Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 That's lovely. Almost too pretty to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navasky Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks for the comments guys. It's not too pretty to use but so far I've been scared to throw it in the bucket with the rest of my hammers and scuff up the handle. On 6/15/2016 at 5:46 AM, Gergely said: I was planning to use some 2 lbs roller bearings to make hammers. I wasn't sure though is 52100 good material for that - have you tried it yet? Any chipping or cracking? I've done some test hammering with it but haven't used it extensively yet. I think 51200 will make a fine hammer as long as you get the temper right. I used a propane torch and drew the face to straw and the rest to blue but with a heavier hammer I would try to get the face a little softer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anachronist58 Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 nicely done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Very nice work, and good photography, too. What's the story with this glue you're doing? I'd love to hear more about the prep and application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navasky Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 On 6/19/2016 at 8:54 AM, VaughnT said: What's the story with this glue you're doing? I'd love to hear more about the prep and application. I do it pretty much how Hofi does it here but I use shoe goo instead of sikaflex. After the glue has had a few days to dry I soak the end grain at the top of the handle in linseed oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 So since the head doesn't rely upon reverse tapers do you shape the handle hole differently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navasky Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 On 6/22/2016 at 6:12 AM, arftist said: So since the head doesn't rely upon reverse tapers do you shape the handle hole differently? No it's a standard hourglass shape. I figure that way metal wedges can be added or it can be re-handled in the usual way later on, plus once the glue dries it forms a mechanical lock as well as the adhesive one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 2 hours ago, navasky said: No it's a standard hourglass shape. I figure that way metal wedges can be added or it can be re-handled in the usual way later on, plus once the glue dries it forms a mechanical lock as well as the adhesive one. Good. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 On 6/21/2016 at 1:22 PM, navasky said: I do it pretty much how Hofi does it here but I use shoe goo instead of sikaflex. After the glue has had a few days to dry I soak the end grain at the top of the handle in linseed oil. navasky, you say "shoe goo" (which is a styrene-butadiene copolymer), but above you said "polyurethane glue" (i.e., Gorilla Glue). Que pasa? (The Shoe Goo thing sounds interesting, not only because I'm making a similar hammer, but also because I need to get some to fix my boot soles.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navasky Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 On 6/23/2016 at 0:15 PM, JHCC said: navasky, you say "shoe goo" (which is a styrene-butadiene copolymer), but above you said "polyurethane glue" (i.e., Gorilla Glue). Que pasa? Oops you caught me, it is indeed styrene butadiene copolymer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Easily confused, I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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