51 Papy Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Saw a video of a knife maker with something like this he was using as an "anvil". I'm going to go look at it tomorrow. The price is Right. This is the hammer bit from a large back hoe. Not sure about the dimensions but it looks way to long. Has anyone got any experience cutting anything like this. I am thinking maybe a quickie saw or some kind of metal band saw. But I'm not sure it will touch this thing. I may be biting off more than I can chew Thanks Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 I have a small cut off that a guy gave me after cutting one down. He mentioned that it was cut at a local machine shop and that they used two band saw blades to cut it. The one I have is about 5" across if I had to guess, truth is I don't think I've measured it and I haven't looked at it in a couple months. Thanks for reminding me that I need to mount it and put it to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 If you can trim it down it should make a fine anvil. Be sure to clean the dirt off it before taking a saw blade to it, grit dulls them quickly. I'd be a little nervous using a gas powered composition saw on it, getting one cocked in a cut that deep can turn one into a grenade. If you have access to a cut off band saw a bimetal blade shouldn't have a problem if it's clean. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Cut off disks for the side grinder would be my way of doing it. You might need a lot of them, but it'll get the job done eventually. If you have something like a Portaband saw, that might work, too. I'm just not sure about the blades on the things. As far as anvils go, though, you'd be hard pressed to find one better. If the height is good, just dress one end and stand her up. Love to have something like that just to tinker on. I've got big anvils, but there's something about a post anvil that's always caught my eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Thanks for the ideas guys. There is a port-a-band in the family. Probably start there and see how it goes. Vaughn...if this thing is as long as I think it is I might be able to help you out. Road trip? Thanks again Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 take it to a welding shop that has a LG cut off saw 16" or 2' wheel or bigger & be done - worth the cutting fee thats what I have here & how I do that PS don't think band saw will cut it ?? to hard or you are going to need a VERY $$$ !! good blade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 We had some large 4340? round cut once with one of the gas powered saws used to cut concrete slabs for road work. *FRIENDS* are a wonderful resource! Of course when they then show up at 4 pm on a Saturday saying they need a left handed salmon putting tee before moonrise, you need to Blacksmith Up and return the favour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 (edited) Would a plasma cutter or oxy-propane, or oxy-propylene (propene), or oxy-acetylene torch do it?? SLAG. Edited May 24, 2016 by SLAG added information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Scrambler 82 Good point. I agree with you completely. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 It followed me home. Ironwolf I stopped by two welding/fab shops in KC and both of them told to rent a quickie saw and have at it. I have a couple more shops (country shops) here close to home to check. Think the quickie saw might equal months of grinding to get flat. Thanks Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beammeupscotty Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 Am I the only one here who uses a 14" abrasive cut off saw? It seems like that would be the best at home solution. It would give a pretty smooth square cut and the blades are not particularly expensive so if it used up an entire blade you are only out seven or eight bucks. This type of saw is not particularly expensive to buy either. They can be had for as little as $160.00 at Home Depot or under a hundred at HF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Scotty Thats probably what is going to be used on it. I took a new hack saw blade to it tonight as a test not much happened. I'll check with my country shops tomorrow but I may have to do it and then grind. 5 1/2" by 55". Man is it hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7A749 Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 You can do it with a grinder and cutoff wheel, but it'll take awhile. I've cut some big stuff with my Metabo 6" grinder and a cutoff wheel. Maybe try taking it to the rental place and see if you flipped the guy in the yard $20-40 bux if he might just do it for you. Theres always torches too. Grind it flat afterward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 5.5"x55"!! That's sure going to be a beautiful anvil. I put the face of my anvil up around wrist height so I wouldn't have to stoop over when working. It precludes gripping stock between your legs, but it's better on the back in the long run. It could probably stand to be an inch lower, but it's not a deal killer for me. Renting a good saw will make quick work out of it and leave you with a surface that's just about good enough to forge on. The alloy they use in those things is very resistant to abrasion, as you can imagine, but it will wear down if you stick with it long enough. Next thing you know, you'll have the belle of the ball all prettied up and ready to dance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Not sure how this is going to go but planning on using about 24 to 26" of this thing. The rest is going to need a new home. If anyone around KC has interest/need PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I would suggest hanging onto the other half for a bit, you may end up finding a use for it. Which end are you keeping? The one end has a nice shouldered shank that will drop into a base, and the other end has a useful taper.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Biggun I am keeping the bottom 25"ish . The chisel point looks like a great fuller. The cut end will be up most of the time. I did find a friend with a big demo saw. I'll drop it off tomorrow for him to do next week. Space is pretty much at a premium in the hot rod/metal shop and somebody close is bound to be as feed up with the anvil market as I am might just as well pass it on. I did put Thomas's theory into play and found several (in the $600 range) and now I have three cast ASO under 75 lbs living in my shop (all dropped off). I hope this hammer has some rebound. Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 After several evenings grinding it's done or at least I'm going to start using it. I didn't weigh it as the better half threw out the scales years ago but it's way over 100 lbs. I lift Portland cement bags more than I want to at 94 lbs. The post is 27" long with a wood base and 120 lbs of sand in the base. Lost my ball bearing but all three hammers rebound about so far as dropped. Can't wait for the weekend. First projects are headed right back to the shop I got the hammer bit from. If anyone has any ideas for the edges please feel free to share. The one edge is a 3/4" round over with the rest goes from easied to about a 1/4" radius. Thanks for all the help! Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) The one thing that I would have a problem with is that I wouldn't be able to get up close to it with the wide stand, exc put I don't have really any other stand ideas,just me preference. But hey if it works for you, and you're satisfied, than great! Littleblacksmith Edited June 8, 2016 by littleblacksmith Reapeated word Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Littleblacksmith Its the same width as the other stand guess I'll find out this weekend. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Hey, well it's like I said, if you like it and it works for you, than that's great! That was just one of MY preferences. Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I agree with littleblacksmith: the stand puts you too far from the edges of your anvil. If you had a narrower (both dimensions) stand, you'd want to bolt it to the floor or at least a plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Maybe I am standing to far away...don't know. I hit where I'm aiming (most of the time). Back doesn't hurt much after a day at the forge (at 55 I should say anymore than normal). Got two guys that know what they're doing saying the same thing. I am going to forge this weekend (95 deg F 90% humidity) and I'll see. I did build it to be able to thin it down some. As I work outside and need to move whatever "anvil" I'm using back inside after I'm done I'm trying not to bolt it down. How far away are you guys from the anvil? As always thanks for the input! Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Do you use the far edge much? I'm right against my stand when I'm using the far edge for half-face blows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Eric I seem to use the far edge more on the rr anvil. I was trained by a House framer at age 18 and have swung a hammer all my life either for work or rat jobs. Lose grip, snap the wrist and let the hammer do the work. If it's not working get a bigger hammer don't swing harder. Never had any injuries. This seems to be inline with what I have read and seen. The base measures 15" square. I'm trying to learn how to do this craft mainly by reading/watching and then trying. In that vein I'll fire up tomorrow and at the first kick of the stand it will get smaller by a layer of 2x4 until it's workable. Really excited to see what rebound feels like and how the mass verses the rr effects the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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