51 Papy

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About 51 Papy

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    Senior Member

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    Kansas City area
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    Woodworking fishing hunting metalworking

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  1. Point taken Anvil. Water has not been friendly when poured on soft hot fire brick. It's time to upgrade and relearn. Thanks
  2. Thanks for the thoughts Frosty I thought about two pots and I agree a rubber Fernco connector would be easy enough. Just trying to condense everything. Not sure which way I'm going but it's time to upgrade!
  3. No fly ash is different. You can try a concrete/masonry supply store or farm supply. Farmers in the Midwest use ash to set corner posts. Usually pretty reasonable. Not finding that you could use a bag of Portland. This should be available about anywhere building material are sold. You spread it out over the floor area an then mix with the floor material and then wet it down. You might be surprised how hard it will get and how long it will last. Protect your lungs with either option as neither is good for you.
  4. Ok here is pict's of the mock up. Things fit a lot better before I forced the card board over the 2" pipe. I like the screen on the tuyere to be up off the floor of the pot. This seems to help with the clinker produced with the Tractor Supply anthracite. I was planning on running 1/4 x 2 or 3 as a lip around each pot. Pipe would be welded to the large pot and the small pot would slide over.
  5. Entering at my own risk. Has anyone built fire pots that nest together? I am currently running a break drum forge. I have formed a pot with both firebrick and clay. The problem is clinker kills both of these materials quickly. Mainly I do small work but have also done hammers and starting to make axes. This is a hobbie and for relaxation. So, I know I need two sizes of fire pots. I have made cardboard templates. One "nests" very well in the other. Space will not allow two forges and I'm lazy and cheap. I would like to remain as compact and efficient as possible. In looking for answers it looks like 3/8" to 1/2" metal is used. The size of pots are sizes I have found I like through experiments (clay needs repair often) and looking at std sizes. Two complete fire pots & plumbing is the conventional answer and doable but a pain to change and store. Am I headed down the wrong path? All oppinions would be appreciated. Papy
  6. My local farm supply store had u-bolts for mounting leaf springs to axles. Fine thread so they don't back off. It has worked well for me and the price was cheap enough. Use the u-bolt to trap your new spring.
  7. Played with a piece of wrought iron. My better half bought it for me over a year ago and wanted a letter opener. Wood grain in metal is just cool.
  8. Sun I have used a break drum forge for the last four or five years. The best thing I did was go to my local brick yard and pick up some cheap! fire brick. These are used in fireplaces and will stand up to "some" heat. I got 4 full size for $10 US. I fit them so that they set level with the top of the drum and they form a "forge pot". These are consumables. They will need to be replaced. I can more than pay for the brick with the savings in coal. The other two brick can be stacked on top to deepen the fire for welding. As to the original question, the suggestions above came from some very experienced people. Try them. If you have access to any heating and cooling folks, son-in-law is a master HVAC, have them get you an old exhaust blower off a 92% heater. I have three different brands and they all slide right on the 2" pipe I used. A ceiling fan variable speed controller $10-15US will let you "idle" the air flow to the fire when your hammering. Not sure what is available in B.C. or costs but you can make it work. Once you start having fun with it you'll want to upgrade your set up. I also have a very small backyard and neighbors. Be curteous with your work hours. When I roll the forge out my neighbors want to know what I'm working on. Communication is key. Last summer the neighbor was having her in-laws over for a BBQ. I shut down as soon as I found out. Neighbor-Relations are important.
  9. Jennifer thought the video was great. I like the intro. Shows the work (that does speak for itself) and the smith. Proud you upset that bar and not me.
  10. No problems there Irondragon. I still have wall space for the "firsts". I hang them up and smile when I make one that suits me.
  11. Yep. Sounds about right. I knew it was something stupid I was doing. Thank you gents! Guess that will give me an excuse to build some more. Thanks again!
  12. Not a fail but not a success. First pair attempted. I had filed the two legs flat and to thickness. The two washers were filed flat and the same thickness. I used a 5/16 round for the rivet. When riveted they froze up. I expected that. I then stuck them in the fire got them red and worked them so all the faces mated up and then tightened the rivet up. I did this a couple of times. Resistance seemed to be about the same through the range I wanted them to open so I lightly set the rivet and let cool. Needless to say they were either froze solid or did not have enough friction to hold the dividers/calipers in place. I know I did something wrong just don't know what. The legs started to get thin and the rivet broke. They now have a thumb screw going through the two legs and into a backer plate. They work fine just not what I was hoping for. Anybody want to tell me what I did wrong? Thanks Papy
  13. Clay flue tiles are available from almost anywhere that caters to Mason's in this area. They are safe, easy to clean and not real expensive. As I can't see the construction from the picture I don't know if this is an option short of doing some sawing or hogging out. A solid masonry chimney is one of the safest and easily maintained chimney's you can have and I agree with Frosty on being cool. Your other options would be a flexible SS liner. They don't last as long but might go a long time with only a forge. I would second the thought of Marcusb one flue per. Build and finished pictures....ya we want to see them.
  14. If it were only that easy. Alexandr WOW! I always enjoy looking at your work.