Your flame isn't lean in any pic. Moving the jet that far in and out should make significant changes in the flame and it isn't. Pulling it all the way back the flame should be almost transparent dark blue. It is well shaped, the jet is remaining centered. It's probably too large. 

No, cleaning weld in the mixing tube has no noticeable benefit. Yes I tried, same for cutting out the threads and even tapering a coupler for a flare. The thread protectors work as well or better. 

I understand wanting to play with the burner but until you put it in the forge that is all you're doing playing around to no real purpose. The back pressure developed in the forge chamber will inhibit induction making your burners run richer. Period.

I only made one burner with an adjustable jet depth, the first T burner that worked properly and once I got it tuned NEVER moved the jet again, EVER. I tightened the lock nut and double nutted it so it couldn't move. Later I buggered the threads with a punch when I kept catching a student trying to adjust it. 

If you make the burner correctly the air fuel ratio curve remains very flat through it's stable pressure range. Making it adjustable is a waste of time, I can't even think of a metaphor that's as pointless to the final product. A HOT forge that doesn't scale the work. 

If you want to make an adjustable jet depth, fine it's your shop, your toy, I can't be of any real help though, have fun.

Frosty The Lucky. 

You can't see it as well as you can hear how the flame changes quite a bit when I move the jet in and out plus the center cone changes from a very light blue to a much deeper blue as you move the jet in but yes, I know it doesn't mean much till I put it in the forge. Making the jet adjustable was just as easy or even easier than doing it your way and then trimming the jet, using stuff I had laying around. I figured that once I had it in the forge and tuned I would never move it again, that's why I used the small set screws instead of thumb screws as it would take a bunch of conscious moves to readjust it once the set screws are tightened so unlikely to happen. I think the 1/2" T is going to be screw adjustable as I just found a 4" piece of 7/16" UNC threaded brass rod in the back of a tool drawer that will make a perfect tip holder IMO. Now I have to start lurking on the casting forums to find a plan for a small foundry to power with it using the same refractory stuff I am going to use on the forge. I am going to pick up some .030 tips to try on the 3/4" also but no rush on that.

I think it's getting to be too cold here to do the castables and my shop is unheated so I am thinking I have till late spring to find and obtain what I need to finish the forge and foundry. I'm having a heck of a time finding the refractory materials all at one place to save on shipping and I can't find any kiln wash other than ITC-100 which I am learning on here isn't a kiln wash at all. Plistix and Matrikote seem to be unobtanium in Canada though my searchfu may be lacking. I read that you are using a DIY product but I forgot to note the page and thread where you gave the formula. I'll find it when I need it. I'll spend the winter finishing the designs/shells of both projects as far as I can and then figure out what I need to finish them and get it here for when it gets warmer. I still haven't gotten too deep into the forge I started building and am now considering one of your brick piles as being the best option for me. More reading needed on that, but as I now have a working 3/4" burner and will have a working 1/2" soon, I hope, I now know what I can power. 

Thanks again for all the help.

Well, most home casters use a five gallon used propane cylinder for their furnace's shell. I normally suggest a smaller shell for a first gas forge, but if you also want to build a casting furnace, the five gallon propane cylinder can usually be picked up for free at most places that sell propane; this is because cylinders most be tested every ten years, to see if they can be legally refilled. There are usually old cylinders around that can't be refilled. they are happy to give them away.

The biggest difference between such tunnel forges, and casting furnaces are whether they are positioned horizontally, or vertically. So, an extra four legs on the shell's far end allows that. Than you also need to have the near end cut, and hinged back on, with a latch added on its other side, so that crucibles can be lowered into the furnace and pick up out of the furnace with special tongs. Lots of guys include A hinged door on the the exhaust opening end of the their forge, for other perfectly valid reasons. You will also want the inside surface of the far end of that forge to be perfectly flat; I recommend using a small round kiln shelf for the purpose, instead of cast refractory (it's just easier to get right). Instead of a smaller exhhaust opening, you drill an emergency spill hole in it, in case of crucible failure (at least 1/2" diameter). Instead of a flat forge floor, make the wall entirely round, and slide a rectangular kiln shelf in it for forge use, and leave it out for furnace use. Use two 1/2" burners (placed a third way between both for ends), instead of a single 3/4 burner. You shut down the top burner during casting, and only use it for forge work.

Simple, yes? 

Crap!!!! Now you put more ideas in my head! I'm too old and my heads too full so stop.....just stoppppp

OK, I've recovered, don't stop. A lot of good ideas there and it started a whole slew of thoughts.

This is your burner thread so I am going to start a forge/foundry what to build thread so I don't hijack this one.

 

You can also place a temporary internal baffle wall on the kiln shelf floor, and shut down the far burner, to save fuel when heating small articles

My favorite thing is when someone gets so into these ideas that they start losing sleep

On 9/5/2022 at 1:28 PM, Frosty said:

I'm wondering how hard it'd be to make the T portion of the burner from copper. I'll have to take a look next time I'm in the corner HVAC/Plumbing supply. 

I was just ogling some pretty nice cast cup x cup x fip brass & bronze reducing tees today. Pretty expensive at the big box store, but under $10 on Amazon, and hopefully nicer to work with than copper. They already have a smooth inlet - the caveat is that copper pipe ODs are only 1/8 over nominal, so it's not really much reduction. 

I think the only objection would be the presumption of higher prices on brass parts.

thanks frosty. I have been using this burner design for about A year now and its 

doing very well. I had A bit of trouble with tuning it but its all going good now.

Where is elemsprint's new forge foundry thread?

I haven't seen him anywhere, maybe he got everything working and is happily pouring metal? Or maybe he's waiting on shippers.

Frosty The Lucky.

Hope so. Hate to think another one got away, instead of joining us down at the deep end of the people's pool

Hey Frosty, getting ready to put together one of your burners for a paint can forge and I'm reading over your directions. They say that the air port openings should be 2x the diameter of the burner inlet, but the openings on the example are only 1" vs 3/4". Or is it that the total opening should be at least 2x so two 1" openings is 2", more than twice 3/4"?

I believe it is referring to the area, not the diameter.

Either way, I’ve seen one nominal size higher for the air inlets then the mix tube recommended many times. 

Ahh of course area! I should have realized that lol. Thank you!

Yes, it's 2x the area.

Thanks for the backup Dr. FrankenBurner. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Michael to Jerry

 Hey, I haven't heard a Frosty joke in months. I need my fix!

Hey back Mike. Haven't I said anything funny lately? I'll have to have a word with the voices. 

I know keeping you in stitches is a staple of mine but today and maybe the next couple few might be light on humor. Deb's been home for about 2 hours after reverse shoulder replacement surgery. It went well, in the expected time and without complications. However I have one pretty doped up wife I'll be watching constantly for a while. I mean as in glancing over every couple sentences as I write this. 

The station will be returned to your previously scheduled Frosty humor. 

Jer

Ouch! Sorry to hear it. Just got out of the hospital too. And people expect old age to be boring...

She'll be miserable for a few weeks and awfully careful for a couple months but she's been in growing serious pain for years and recently discovered reverse shoulder replacement and how much faster the recovery is and how much better the results and pulled the trigger.

The difference is, regular shoulder replacement means sawing the ball off the arm bone and replacing it with a titanium ball with a plastic bearing. Reverse replacement is a small screw with a head with a round divot in it with a plastic bearing thingy. The existing ball is held in position in the ring shaped bearing and divot by surgically repositioned muscle, tendons and . . . stuff.

Reverse replacement heals faster because muscle, tendon and soft tissue heals faster than bone. Regular replacement saws the ball or part of it off and replaces it, that's a lot of bone to heal into the prosthetic. Screws thread themselves into bone and bond pretty quickly.

One of the things about getting older is you learn a lot about your and other's bodies and how they heal. I learned a bunch after the birch incident, I have plates and screws holding lots of my left arm and right ankle/leg together but that was the fall off the low boy trailer. 

To quote Judge Judy. One of the most important secrets of living a long life is, "Don't FALL."

Hey, progress! Deb's stopped rubbing the back of her right hand, the nerve block must be fading! Even better, she's asleep. Shhhhh. Ronnie one of our dachshunds is sleeping quietly in her lap. Deb's Ronnie's main person and is being very careful once she discovered Mom's hurt.

Dogs are great healers.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks for cluing me in, Jerry. It does sound like they have improved the process a lot (sill plenty bad enough, though).

It's not for everybody but it has some real advantages if you're eligible. I'm a real fan of the nearly normal range of motion compared the 70% of the standard replacement. There are lots of factors of course, every shoulder is different but this type is pretty effective.

The nerve block should be wearing off sometime later today and we'll have a better idea where we stand. It IS fading, she can move her fingers but lacks control and feeling. S'okay, progress is progress. 

I'm not seeing any symptoms they warned about like redness, swelling, soreness away from the surgery site, etc. My other job is changing ice in the cold therapy machine and hooking / unhooking it so she can visit the room of resting. It's basically a small cooler with pump, timer thermometer, etc. in the lid a couple hoses and a thermal pad that straps to the patient. You put ice in it and fill with water to the mark and it circulates for set intervals with pauses. We bought this one, it was way cheaper than current prices for rentals. 2 months of rental would've been in the thousands and buying it was less than $200. 

I freeze 8oz. water bottles instead of using crushed ice, it's not quite as cold which is actually a good thing and it's WAY faster than having to dump the machine and refill every time. I just fish out the thawed bottles, drop 5 replacements back in, close it up and turn it back on. Counting R&R the from the freezer it takes maybe 4 minutes. As opposed to almost 10 using ice, not counting getting little cubes out of the tray or breaking up bagged crushed ice.  

It's actually mostly being here and keeping watch, the chores aren't so much but I get to sit here and ready. 

It's a PITA but worth it.

Frosty The Lucky.

thank you this will help with my propane forge

a blowtorch is not the best burner

 

You're right about that, though a blow or soldering torch will work in a pinch. If you have any questions please feel free to give a shout out, a lot of us hang out here to help spread the addiction to beating HOT iron with hammers. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Mr Frosty the lucky, 

I came across this thread searching for your design of a good reliable tried and true forge burner. 32 pages now and the link to the PDF files do not work. May I please have a copy of your forge burner design?

Sincerely

Randy, working with anything metal enthusiast.

The PDF just downloaded fine for me.  I send a PM with the PDF attached and a recommendation to read the entire thread for updates and different dimensions for 1/2" burners.