elimsprint

Crap!!!! Now you put more ideas in my head! I'm too old and my heads too full so stop.....just stoppppp OK, I've recovered, don't stop. A lot of good ideas there and it started a whole slew of thoughts. This is your burner thread so I am going to start a forge/foundry what to build thread so I don't hijack this one.

You can't see it as well as you can hear how the flame changes quite a bit when I move the jet in and out plus the center cone changes from a very light blue to a much deeper blue as you move the jet in but yes, I know it doesn't mean much till I put it in the forge. Making the jet adjustable was just as easy or even easier than doing it your way and then trimming the jet, using stuff I had laying around. I figured that once I had it in the forge and tuned I would never move it again, that's why I used the small set screws instead of thumb screws as it would take a bunch of conscious moves to readjust it once the set screws are tightened so unlikely to happen. I think the 1/2" T is going to be screw adjustable as I just found a 4" piece of 7/16" UNC threaded brass rod in the back of a tool drawer that will make a perfect tip holder IMO. Now I have to start lurking on the casting forums to find a plan for a small foundry to power with it using the same refractory stuff I am going to use on the forge. I am going to pick up some .030 tips to try on the 3/4" also but no rush on that. I think it's getting to be too cold here to do the castables and my shop is unheated so I am thinking I have till late spring to find and obtain what I need to finish the forge and foundry. I'm having a heck of a time finding the refractory materials all at one place to save on shipping and I can't find any kiln wash other than ITC-100 which I am learning on here isn't a kiln wash at all. Plistix and Matrikote seem to be unobtanium in Canada though my searchfu may be lacking. I read that you are using a DIY product but I forgot to note the page and thread where you gave the formula. I'll find it when I need it. I'll spend the winter finishing the designs/shells of both projects as far as I can and then figure out what I need to finish them and get it here for when it gets warmer. I still haven't gotten too deep into the forge I started building and am now considering one of your brick piles as being the best option for me. More reading needed on that, but as I now have a working 3/4" burner and will have a working 1/2" soon, I hope, I now know what I can power. Thanks again for all the help.

It's just a Mastercraft, Canadian Tire house brand, 4.5" with rocker switch. I wish they made a paddle switch version. 3 year OTC warranty so I get a new one from them every couple of years I am really happy with the burner, I can't wait to finish the forge gut I have to scrounge up some more supplies for it first.

video, you can really hear the difference as the flame gets leaner. Frosty, is it beneficial to get rid of the seam in the nipples?

I won't be ordering that then, thank you.

I understand that, you can see the forge to be in the background, this is just some first burns to see if it works plus, you know "NEW TOY!!!!!!!!". I am building a 1/2" T burner to use for a couple of projects and will probably be used sometimes outside a forge or foundry.

I found the wire gauges, I actually have 2 sets and I now know the .023 have .031 holes, the .030 have between .035 and .038, and my .035 are a perfect fit for a #57 drill bit .043 Pics of the burner 10PSI tip all the way in all the way out 20PSI all the way in and out

Geez, I forgot all about spark plug feeler gauges. I know there is a set of the bent wire ones up at the shop somewhere, the search begins, lol.

Are you using tip cleaners to measure the tip ID's? I tried and if I'm right and used them properly the holes in my .023 tips are around .036 or so. The forth smallest cleaner (68-66 IIRC) fits right in and the fifth (64-62?) only goes in to the file section and stops. I don't have any # drills under #60 so all too big for this.

This one is a fairly tight fit and long enough so it stays aligned till it's almost all the way out. What is amazing is it keeps burning quite nicely even with the mig tip fully out of sight. Pics tomorrow morning, I'm already into the still juice, lol.

Here's pics of the new 3/4" adjustable. The video sucked so I will maybe reshoot it tomorrow. It's a fairly tight fit so I don't think there is any air leaking by the gas tube.

I don't mind an ignorant sales person if they are willing to admit to their ignorance and are willing to learn from their customers but..... you're right, the other type is a real curse because their customers don't necessarily know the salesperson is ignorant and take their word as gospel, very scary!

I'm building a couple for sure and I do have a question for you. When you trim a mig tip is it to make the gas nozzle shorter to spray gas differently and/or a different amount or is it to move it's face back to allow more air into the mixture? I'm sure I read the explanation somewhere but it's just too much knowledge going into an already too full brain! I just finished a 3/4" head with an adjustable (in/out) mig tip and the results have me a little mystified as to what I have accomplished, lol. I will post pics and video, if I can figure that out, later today. I think I saw one like it in this thread but I can't find it now so maybe it was in Burners 101. I did go to a 6" nipple on the 3/4" and the burner really burns nice now but of course it is not in my slowly being built forge yet.

With the labor problems we're having up here I probably know more than any employee at the local welding store:-( The last time I talked to one of the "kids" they have working there he thought the hole size was exactly what was stamped on the tip and he thought they all had the same thread pattern. He now knows as much as I do, which is still very little!

Perfect, thanks, I have a bunch of .023 I don't use!