elimsprint

Crap!!!! Now you put more ideas in my head! I'm too old and my heads too full so stop.....just stoppppp OK, I've recovered, don't stop. A lot of good ideas there and it started a whole slew of thoughts. This is your burner thread so I am going to start a forge/foundry what to build thread so I don't hijack this one.

You can't see it as well as you can hear how the flame changes quite a bit when I move the jet in and out plus the center cone changes from a very light blue to a much deeper blue as you move the jet in but yes, I know it doesn't mean much till I put it in the forge. Making the jet adjustable was just as easy or even easier than doing it your way and then trimming the jet, using stuff I had laying around. I figured that once I had it in the forge and tuned I would never move it again, that's why I used the small set screws instead of thumb screws as it would take a bunch of conscious moves to readjust it once the set screws are tightened so unlikely to happen. I think the 1/2" T is going to be screw adjustable as I just found a 4" piece of 7/16" UNC threaded brass rod in the back of a tool drawer that will make a perfect tip holder IMO. Now I have to start lurking on the casting forums to find a plan for a small foundry to power with it using the same refractory stuff I am going to use on the forge. I am going to pick up some .030 tips to try on the 3/4" also but no rush on that. I think it's getting to be too cold here to do the castables and my shop is unheated so I am thinking I have till late spring to find and obtain what I need to finish the forge and foundry. I'm having a heck of a time finding the refractory materials all at one place to save on shipping and I can't find any kiln wash other than ITC-100 which I am learning on here isn't a kiln wash at all. Plistix and Matrikote seem to be unobtanium in Canada though my searchfu may be lacking. I read that you are using a DIY product but I forgot to note the page and thread where you gave the formula. I'll find it when I need it. I'll spend the winter finishing the designs/shells of both projects as far as I can and then figure out what I need to finish them and get it here for when it gets warmer. I still haven't gotten too deep into the forge I started building and am now considering one of your brick piles as being the best option for me. More reading needed on that, but as I now have a working 3/4" burner and will have a working 1/2" soon, I hope, I now know what I can power. Thanks again for all the help.

It's just a Mastercraft, Canadian Tire house brand, 4.5" with rocker switch. I wish they made a paddle switch version. 3 year OTC warranty so I get a new one from them every couple of years I am really happy with the burner, I can't wait to finish the forge gut I have to scrounge up some more supplies for it first.

video, you can really hear the difference as the flame gets leaner. Frosty, is it beneficial to get rid of the seam in the nipples?

I won't be ordering that then, thank you.

I understand that, you can see the forge to be in the background, this is just some first burns to see if it works plus, you know "NEW TOY!!!!!!!!". I am building a 1/2" T burner to use for a couple of projects and will probably be used sometimes outside a forge or foundry.

I found the wire gauges, I actually have 2 sets and I now know the .023 have .031 holes, the .030 have between .035 and .038, and my .035 are a perfect fit for a #57 drill bit .043 Pics of the burner 10PSI tip all the way in all the way out 20PSI all the way in and out

Geez, I forgot all about spark plug feeler gauges. I know there is a set of the bent wire ones up at the shop somewhere, the search begins, lol.

Are you using tip cleaners to measure the tip ID's? I tried and if I'm right and used them properly the holes in my .023 tips are around .036 or so. The forth smallest cleaner (68-66 IIRC) fits right in and the fifth (64-62?) only goes in to the file section and stops. I don't have any # drills under #60 so all too big for this.

This one is a fairly tight fit and long enough so it stays aligned till it's almost all the way out. What is amazing is it keeps burning quite nicely even with the mig tip fully out of sight. Pics tomorrow morning, I'm already into the still juice, lol.

Here's pics of the new 3/4" adjustable. The video sucked so I will maybe reshoot it tomorrow. It's a fairly tight fit so I don't think there is any air leaking by the gas tube.

I don't mind an ignorant sales person if they are willing to admit to their ignorance and are willing to learn from their customers but..... you're right, the other type is a real curse because their customers don't necessarily know the salesperson is ignorant and take their word as gospel, very scary!

I'm building a couple for sure and I do have a question for you. When you trim a mig tip is it to make the gas nozzle shorter to spray gas differently and/or a different amount or is it to move it's face back to allow more air into the mixture? I'm sure I read the explanation somewhere but it's just too much knowledge going into an already too full brain! I just finished a 3/4" head with an adjustable (in/out) mig tip and the results have me a little mystified as to what I have accomplished, lol. I will post pics and video, if I can figure that out, later today. I think I saw one like it in this thread but I can't find it now so maybe it was in Burners 101. I did go to a 6" nipple on the 3/4" and the burner really burns nice now but of course it is not in my slowly being built forge yet.

With the labor problems we're having up here I probably know more than any employee at the local welding store:-( The last time I talked to one of the "kids" they have working there he thought the hole size was exactly what was stamped on the tip and he thought they all had the same thread pattern. He now knows as much as I do, which is still very little!

Perfect, thanks, I have a bunch of .023 I don't use!

I'm building a 1/2" T for a brick pile foundry I'm trying to build but I can't seem to find a consensus on mig tip size, .023, .025 or .030. I have some .023 which I will try but if I need another size I can pick some up when I am in town this evening.

Hypodermic needles, why didn't I think of that????? Thank You!

Where do you find .030" capillary tubing? I have been doing searches all morning and I can find no .030" SS capillary tubing (at any sort of reasonable price) in Canada and shipping from the USA is nutz ($12.50 order (10cm of tubing) $28 shipping) Any leads would be appreciated. I'm also searching and searching on here for plans for a good 1/4" burner and I can't find any. I'm using google and 1/4" propane burner, iforgeiron in my searches but I guess my searchfu is not working today.

Where are you getting the capillary tube, I have been searching everywhere up here to no avail.

Has anyone tried using the "G" version of Kastolite 30 LI? According to the retailer up here: The 'G' stands for 'gunning mix'. This makes it easier to apply up the side of a forge as it does not slump like casting grade. It will have slightly less of a compression grade, but in a forge this is not an issue. Kast-O-Lite 30 LI G is a lightweight, insulating gunning castable rated to 3000°F. It has great insulating qualities similar to the Kast-O-Lite LI 30 PLUS however, it has a higher lime content. This means it sets up/hardens quicker (5-10 minute work time) compared to Kast-O-Lite 30 LI Plus' (30 minute work time).

I have 2 old acetylene regulators laying around that I was planning on using till I found IFI and your warnings in a 101 thread, thank you!

Yes, the T and I'm lighting it at the nozzle:-) I don't have the ball valve installed yet, I forgot to pick up a 1/4" T and a gauge last time I was in town and I wanted to try this thing out! I am using the 20# regulator that I took from the chinese banjo burner on my still to start it (not the right way, I know but.....) and the tank valve to shut it down till I head down the hill. I will get a good regulator but the other one was here so I'm using it for now. Thanks for the help so far, I'm sure I'll have a million more questions before I start to heat some metal.

I can turn the whole supply tube in and out about 1/8" before it gets too wobbly and even out all the way it doesn't seem to affect the burn very much. I was just confused as to why I needed the flare to make it light at all. With the flare I can light it with a bic but without I can't even get it lit with a propane torch unless I turn it almost off and then it lights in the plenum and blows out as I turn it up. I can turn little bits of the mig tip off in the lathe but haven't wanted to adjust much till I actually get it in a forge. I just found your NARB post and am thinking I may go that route before I build the forge. I have a 20# tank cut and sitting on my workbench till I figure out my path forward. Decisions, decisions, decisions!

I asked at a couple of places after reading your previous posts on the subject and they both said they only get plastic protectors. I had to put the reducer on to make it burn, I couldn't light it without it. Maybe the 6" nipple will help with that. I want to get the burner working well to dry out the ridgidizer and I don't care if it needs a flare on it right now but eventually I want to run a straight pipe set back in a refractory formed flare, I think, maybe????????

I just built a 3/4" Frosty T burner and so far I am happily impressed. I did it slightly differently than the instructions as I welded a piece of 1" shaft to the top of the T so I would have more meat to tap. I also turned and soldered a plug in the 1/4" nipple and drilled and tapped that for the .035" mig tip to screw into. Here's a link to a vid of it burning https://imgur.com/a/VxVTLcB In the middle of the video I turn it down to almost off and then up to max which on the regulator I am using is 20psi I also used an 8" nipple I had laying around instead of the 6" recommended. I'm going to pick up a 6" nipple and a 3/4" coupler to make a better flare and see if that helps. Turn the coupler to 1:12 taper or just turn out the threads and call it good?