Tanner Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I just started and found an old anvil at my grandpa's house. The only problem is that it isn't in the best shape. How would I fix the corners? Also do you guys have any recommendations on a reasonably priced propane forge? I don't really want to make one even though I can weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Don't try to 'fix' the anvil. Chances are more harm will come to it then any good. It still has plenty of good left on it. Others will tell you what you can do to clean it up but mine still has the patina on it except for where my hot metal hits it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomfromuk Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 So this is the advice i've seen on almost every other similar topic. Use the anvil like it is. You could take a wire brush to it and remove some of the rust but working hot steel on it will do exactly the same thing. The edges are fine, leave them alone until you've had some good use out of the anvil, If you need sharp edges then it shouldn't be too hard to make a hardie tool with good edges. Also keep an eye out for any markings on the sides of the anvil, under the horn, under the heel and on the feet. They might give you some more info on the anvil. Its looks to be a great anvil, all it needs is some work to do My $0.02Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony San Miguel Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 That anvil is a Trenton and from the pics it looks to be a good size. Please don't try to fix it. The advise that Tom gave you is what you will hear from most of the experienced smiths. I personally would just remove the rust with a wire brush and put a light coat of oil or wax and start pounding hot steel on it. If you "fix" it wrong it will be very hard to un "fix" it. Also, test the rebound with a small ball pein hammer or ball bearing over the entire face and expect there to be less rebound and a different ring over the heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 That anvil has seen a lot of use, but there is a lot of use left in it. You could destroy it completely by 'fixing' it. Brush it up a bit and leave it alone!! Best thing you could do is use it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Would taking a flap disk to the face ruin it? By the way I brushed the side off and it is a Trenton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Or should I use a wire disk in an angle grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I wouldn't run anything more than a wire brush across the face. That rust will start coming off the face just as soon as you start using it. It'll shine up real nice where you work your hot steel. If you do a search on here there are many topics much like this one with answer to all the questions you've asked and some you haven't gotten around to yet. Don't intend to sound rude, just making a suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 NO sandpaper or grinding on it. A little wire brushing on the body if you want it steel colored and maybe oil or my favorite paste wax but don't do anything to the face but work hot steel/iron on it. The edges could maybe use a little work but wait till you've used that grand old lady a few years and have a skills set to judge with. As she stands you have plenty of good edges to isolate sections and shoulder with so there's no practical need to alter the rest.Good iron work isn't about pristine tools, it's about the skill of the smith, trying to make tools perfect before you know how to achieve good is a disaster in the making. We've all been there at one time or another and not just blacksmithing. All crafts have this basic reaction from new comers so don't sweat it. Please just don't mess with that old beauty till you're an old hand. Hmmmm?Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 I've seen anvils where the corners were a lot worse than what you have and they still haven't needed to be "fixed". Yours is just fine the way it is. As others have mentioned if you NEED a sharp edge you can always make a block that goes in the hardy hole. Here's an example of one I made, It's a very simple project and a good one for a beginner to learn on and you won't hurt your nice anvil. The same basic principals are used to make all sorts of swages and bottom tools for the hardy. You can see my block in my small hardy holder. This one has all the edges still sharp, but it's easy enough to make one with a different radius if need be. The plan is to eventually finish forging it as a small swage block for a special project. Plenty of ways of doing this. In this case my stock was a bit small, so I forged down the shank until it fit in the hardy hole, then upset the top material to widen my block. If I'd had wider stock to start with, I could have simply forged down the shank. You can get a better idea of the block in the top left of the last pict. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Practical Blacksmithing, Richardson, book 1 1889, page 111:"For my own part, I am satisfied not only that the sharp edges are useless, but that they are also destructive of good work. I cannot account for their existence except as a relic of a time when the principles of forging were but little understood. I want both edges of my anvil rounded, not simply for a part of their length, but for their whole length." By Xseveral other smiths also go into detail on how the edges of an anvil should be rounded in this collection of excerpts from a professional blacksmithing journal of the latter 19th century when blacksmithing was still at it's peak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Personally speaking I would take a flap disc to the edges to clean up the radius a bit but that is all. The edges are fine as they are though. Great quote there ThomasP. All the best Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Pretty sweet anvil there. I use this one backwards. The manufacture stamp faces me. I do realize this is against all blacksmithing laws, but I play electric guitar so we are allowed to do things others find unacceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 You can use a wire brush on an angle grinder to clean the rust off. If you look at the anvils on ebay that Matchless antiques sells that is how Steve cleans his up.A rotary wire brush won't hurt anything. Other than that your anvil looks perfect as is. The old saying "if it ain't broke fix it till it is" applies here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 I ended up buying the one burner knifemaker forge from diamondback ironworks. It should be here sometime next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Pretty sweet anvil there. I use this one backwards. The manufacture stamp faces me. I do realize this is against all blacksmithing laws, but I play electric guitar so we are allowed to do things others find unacceptable.Whadyamean 'backwards'? Is there really a right and a wrong way to face your anvil? I often work with the heal facing me. I reckon whatever is comfortable is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madwing Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 i was going to say, "backwards?". i work with the horn on my hammer hand side (the right side, for me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Oh good grief you're all facing your anvils the wrong way! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Whadyamean 'backwards'? Is there really a right and a wrong way to face your anvil? I often work with the heal facing me. I reckon whatever is comfortable is right.^^ This. My anvil faces the same way. Does it matter? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notownkid Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 My anvil keeps trying to run out the door when it sees me coming, don't understand it I only hit it with a hammer and lay hot steel on it's head. I have to use it in what ever way I can get it cornered. Never knew there was a wrong way for anything as long as it works for you or me. My Doc. told me this week after all the tests I was normal and when I asked what happened to me he was puzzled. I told him I've never been normal in my life so now I have to start all over again and have no idea where to begin. Hope that doesn't mean I need an I Phone!Anvil looks fine for me esp. to get started on. It's more to do with skill and less to do with tools. Had a friend who spend 1,000 of dollars on shooting equipment and a new rifle. First few matches he couldn't hit anything decent at 200 yrs to say nothing of 600. Another shooting companion offered him 100 dollars for the rifle and he was so mad he took it. Two weeks later my companion won a 600 yrd. match with that same rifle. After the match he was offered a chance to shoot it at 600 and he could have it back for 200 dollars with the recipe and he wouldn't do it. He though $$$ would buy him wins and experience and practice had little to do with it. Doesn't work in blacksmithing or shooting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 He though $$$ would buy him wins and experience and practice had little to do with it. Doesn't work in blacksmithing or shooting. It doesn't work in so many hobbies. Besides seeing it in shooting ( $1000 is nothing for a new competition rifle, I bet my good spotting scope was more than that, let alone my coat and mat) and blacksmithing, I've seen the same thing in Scuba. Guys who feel if they throw enough money at the hobby, it automatically brings them a level of expertise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notownkid Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 You are right there, I spent 3-4 thousand each for two custom rifles 28 + 30 yrs ago for high power competition and many 1000s in experience and was lucky to shoot with and travel with some of the top long range shooters in the country. Even with all their free training tips and endless hrs. of training I never came close to their level. But made friends and have been able to pass on to others what I did learn. I've been pall bearer to most of them in the last few years, that is the hard part of being the youngest in a group of fellows. You still shooting? Had to stop when both shoulders got repaired a few yrs. ago. I have a couple of old barrels kicking around deciding what to make out of them so as to pass on to the family. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Like I've been saying for decades, tools and equipment are just highly refined dirt, it's the clever monkey with thumbs that do the work. Can't train a tool gotta work on the monkey. A little knowledge and a lot of practice.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) Stupid "Forbidden".... I haven't shoot competitively since the early to mid 90's. I started to find that I was forcing myself to go practice no matter what and it just wasn't fun any more. I've still got all the gear, though I never did manage to get around to inletting and bedding the custom Win Mod 70 in .308 I was building for high power at the time. At best I was shooting low Master scores at the time compared to several I know who were shooting High Master. Mostly I shot military high power with my M1A, and I was starting to get in more with my Mod 70 when I started to burn out and stopped.I still shoot occasionally, but haven't done much recently due to the cost of ammo. I just picked up a little Ruger SP101 revolver that I can plink with. I wanted a double action .22 I could take to the range with my friend and her two kids and shoot. I wanted something other than my Ruger MK II that is easy to tell if it's clear. Something with out a lot of recoil that's cheap and fun to shoot. A few picts back in the late 80's of me at Quantico Va at the Regionals. Edited June 28, 2015 by DSW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 I killed my first buck with a Winchester 70 in .243 a couple of years back. It's an awesome rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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