here's a gooder, 165lbs buckworth anvil, additional info is appreciated! heres a vid explanation.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClQ1teJJJeY

Ethan: Thank you for the outstanding video. I get to take down the cardboard "Ethan The Blacksmith" cutout I had taped on the wall because I know what you look and sound like now. You shoot a pretty darned good video and I have yet to see anyone else do the rebound test in a video. The only suggestion I'd make is drop the bearing all over the face. You got the rebound test with the hammer perfectly and you're right, that has excellent rebound. She's a fine anvil.

You also want to be aware of back lighting. The door was directly behind the rebound test but you have a good camera it corrected for it pretty well.

The name MIGHT be Beckworth but I don't get a hit Googling that name either.

Thanks for the look and listen. Good job.

Frosty The Lucky.

Very informative video. As Frosty says be careful of the lighting and especially back lighting. Always watch the video you produce and do a second take to fix any problems such as back lighting or unwanted motion such as panning quickly, etc. Cardboard can be used to isolate a subject from the background.

What does the bottom look like? How's the underside of the heel?  Any numbers on the front of the foot under the horn?

  We know a lot of anvils were marked for Hardware stores to re-sell and I have my suspicions that this is one of them and would most likely be a Trenton, Hay Buden or Arm and Hammer. The elongate "gracile" configuration

 

Buckworth Hardware does show up in google  (Sorry if this is all covered in the video can't watch it at work)

Edited May 28, 201511 yr by ThomasPowers

Very nice Ethan. You clearly use your eyes and ears. 

Hi Ethan, good anvil seems to have great rebound! I never worry about some chips on the heel very rarely use the heel for forging. As to its origins I think you have an anvil made by Henry Wright. They resemble a Peter Wright right down to the ledge on the feet, but I have seen 10 or 12 over the years and all had the weight stamped in pounds on the offside just like yours. As others pointed out it is not uncommon to see an anvil with a hardware company logo instead of the manufacture's logo. This is more common with the American manufacturer's. I don't know much about Henry Wright anvils, maybe one of our friends from England can help there. All I have seen were stamped exactly like a Peter Wright except Henry instead of Peter. Forge on and enjoy your new anvil! Hope this helps

thank you all for the great feed back! ill post more later.( im at school)

Cool. I've not seen a Buckworth before. Very interesting. 

 

The heel around the pritchel hole looked a bit funny to me - has it been welded up? Other than that it's a fine anvil. I really like the logo on the side. Looks like it was well used and well taken care of. 

 

That's some shop you have access to there. I'm guessing your dad must be into blacksmithing as well?

Andy

Edited May 28, 201511 yr by Everything Mac

upon further inspection, I do believe there is small welded potion on the heel, but that's fine for me.

everything mac: surprising, my dad is not a blacksmith or a medal worker. the part of the building you see is just one of a few big bays in a large shop. I would love to do a shop tour sometime!

I'm sure a welded portion won't do any harm where it is. The face looks in lovely condition so I wouldn't be concerned. I feel bad for pointing it out now... 

Awesome. I'd love access to a shop like that and would be very interested to see a shop tour. Keep it up. 

 

All the best 

Andy

 

great, I just figured out how to edit vids so it will be coming soon!

We just got a GoPro and Deb's driving herself nuts trying to edit vids. I'll get to mess with it someday I hope. Do you have any links for free editing programs?

Frosty The Lucky.

The hammer logo says Original trade mark.

I can't stop the video at the right time, but there appears to be some more writing above the b--kworth. 

Very nice shop, and you get extra points for knowing your way around a fiddle!  You're a rare breed of kid, hoss.

frosty, we have a windows 8 laptop with what I believe is called windows movie maker, but ill have to confirm that...

I'm running windows 8 on my laptop too. I'll check what I have. Thanks.

Frosty The Lucky.

frosty I just checked and its just called movie maker. hope this helps!

frosty I just checked and its just called movie maker. hope this helps!

​Got it, thank you Ethan.   Now if we can get it to work for us.

Frosty The Lucky.

update: I Know that if I were to show you all this in front of your eye, you would probably strangle me so take caution before reading the rest........

my anvil has been welded on. no, I did not use 7018 rod, I use some expensive rod that I got at a welding shop. in fact it was hard enough that I burnt up a grinding disk grinding it down, I also did a file test. the whole side is good and sharp excepted for the 3''s of rounded edge. I also welded up the end of the horn because the tip was 3/4'' when I got it.

Great video, Ethan. I admire your enthusiasm and knowledge. If this young man represents the future of our craft, it is in good hands.

Just remember that hardness is only *one* factor in being a good anvil face---glass is harder than many anvil faces but I wouldn't suggest it as a forging surface!  Also being hard to grind is not totally correlated with being hard.

good to know, I have not done to many things on it so far but I the rod is also tough, but I am not sure.

Ethan: There is a LOT more to hard facing than just burning rod and that anvil didn't need repairing in the first place. Did you preheat the anvil? What temperature? What kind of hard facing rod did you use? Steel on steel or steel on stone? Those are basic descriptive terms the guys at the welding supply would understand. It really makes a difference.

Fortunately I don't think you did it any harm with as little chipping as there was.

Still, don't do it again! At least let us know what you have planned there are ways to weld repair an anvil that  minimize the probability of damaging it further.

Frosty The Lucky.

Good video. Just a quick question, watching the bearing drop I estimate the rebound to be @‌ 75% (first drop)? This seems comparable to several anvils that I tried last weekend.(estimated at 50% to 75%).

thanks frosty for the tips.

when I went to the welding shop they said they had a good rod for welding anvils because the did it before,(not that, that means very much)

it works great for me so far, and as you said I don't think I damaged it that much.

to answer you question about preheating, I did not, because I thing it would have taken out the hardness(is this bad?)

I wanted to weld up 2 more anvils(Vulcan) with very bad edges(I will upload pics) and so any tips or recommendation are appreciated!