395743 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Hi, I have been forging in my backyard under a tree for a while, several times in the rain even. It is not ideal by any means but I finally have my own set up, anvil, forge, etc. I have everything that is except for a smithy (shop). First of all, I must tell you that I currently do not own the land that I am living on, which means that sometime I will have to move. I expect that will be within the next year or two. So I need to build a smithy which can be set up, just like a permanent one, I can store my forge, anvil, etc. in and forge inside of it in any weather conditions night or day. But the smithy must also be able to be taken apart so that it can be moved in the bed of my pickup truck. I have concluded that the best way to do this would be to make the four walls and roof out of completely seperate pieces, so that they could be easily bolted together and then taken apart when neccessary. I was wondering if anyone else might have already built a smithy for a similar purpose (maybe reenactors or something?). If so I would be greatefull for any pictures, blueprints, measurements, etc. that you could give me. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Olivo Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 A really nice way to go and the way I would (if there was enough space at the place I am at at the moment) is to make a yurt. Very mobile and sturdy not to mention ment to have a fire inside. I have books and know people who have made a couple. And some that use them as their smithy. Depending on how complicated you make it it can be very easy to set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Edge of the Anvil book by Jack Andrews tells of him using a 20 ft teepee as a forge. Perfectly viable option. Also viable would be a small pole barn that can rest on above ground concrete blocks. It would be lightweight, but would consist of four poles and a ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 one Idea I would look into is what i call a metal car port made out of tubing and sheetmetal kits come fully inclosed would be an easy thing to make any size need or buy a kit Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I've actually contemplated the use of a 16' ger (yurt) and you can find plans free on the net. I have also looked at inclosed trailers, with and with out tip up walls. As well as well as all steel car canapies, they can be had with 4 walls. The ger has cool going for it, and is actually very secure if you include a locking door. They are also very storm worthy, I have heard of one surviving a tornado that took out the rest of the neighborhood. But you usualy have to stoop to get in. A trailer is very versatile, but narrow, a home brew on a light car haller can have side walls that tilt up to provide a bigger foot print under cover. Nice way to go because the whole shebang can be moved at will. As to the car port. Once you order it, and get an install date, you'll be ready to move in the next day. Light weight, sturdy and easy to disassemble, just need a drillmotor and a 5/16" or 1/4" nutdriver. You can insulate all three, lock all three and move all three. Reativly easy to get past zoning, especially if you stay under 144 square feet, and no permanant foundations. Id lean to the trailer my self, especially since you already have a a tow vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 I've been looking at horse trailers on craigslist and I found an old junker horse trailer for $600 near me. I was thinking that might meet my needs, but I don't know if I would end up having enough room to forge inside it... As for the yurt, are you guys serius? aren't they made of flamable material? I guess I'll look into it if y'all think it is a good idea. Thanks for the awesome advice, I'll definately look into the car port option too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 By the way, I'm trying not to spend more than $100 on this, my funds are limited at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I've forged for over 20 years under a canvas tarp mounted on 7' poles, even forge welding I've never had it even singe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 Does your canvas tarp come down to make sides or is it just a roof? I'd love to see a picture of it! (I'm sure it doesn't look like much, but don't let that stop you) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I'd look at low utility trailers, 6'x16' bed or so, if you can find one that needs a new flore all the better. I've shoed out of a horse trailer, both two horse and a stock. Worked fine for shoeing, but not going to work well for general blacksmithing. Basically what you want is either a platform to work as a workbench, and container for your gear, plus a canopy you can errect to cover a work area, or a 8'x? Shed on wheels. Built on a old frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck in Ms Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I guess you meant $1000. There is a company called Kelly Buildings that makes pre fab buildings like you are looking for. Easy to build yourself. The walls are steel tubing (3/4 X 1 1/2 ) put together in panels six foot wide and as high as you want the building. The metal siding (read tin here) is already attached to this and hangs over the edge enough for the over lap. These panels bolt together on the inside via tabs. Once you have one corner together the rest is easy to bolt up. The roof is the same with additional tabs for cross bracing down from the peak. Of course the end walls are a little taller to create that peak. This building is very strong and can be taken down just as easy as it goes up. Given the budget you might consider using trap sides with the tin reserved for the roof only. Besides welding a few tabs all you need is basic hand tools and one person to help for about four or five hours during final assembly. You could bolt the tabs if you don't have a welder. Just another idea, hope you get something together soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquamanlr Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I have been going over some of the things that I have saved from post, and I believe that if you can searh posts submitted be Drewed he might be able to put you in touch with someone that has build a forge on a tailer frame. LeeRoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzer Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 There is also the concept of the tent cabin that they used back in the gold camps. They are built of wood to about waist high, then framed up with 2x4's under canvas for the rest and roof, sort of like putting a tent up higher off the ground. A bit more support than using a canvas tent or fly, but easy to break down and move. You could even build the base out of pallet wood and have it not look too bad with a bit of care. The four corners and framing can be mounted with lag bolts for easy takedown. Roll up the canvas sides when forging for open air flow, close it up when done. They also make wood stove pass throughs for canvas tents which should be more than enough to vent a forge if you need. Just size the wood box/frame to the tent you have. If you look around, there are some Army surplus box tents that are made to last at a decent price and some are quite large. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 this is a good deal they will last about 3 years then have to be replaces They did not have them when I started but wish they did Just place you forge out side and you can roll it in at night. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-x-17-ft-portable-garage-69039.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 My tarp is a 10x20' piece of very heavy canvas with grommets installed n strengthened area along the sides and end. I use it with 6 poles, wood with a simple steel pin on the ends, one at each corner and 1 on the middle of each of the long sides. Each pole has a rope with a loop on the center to go over the pin and each end has an adjustable loop for a stake. No sides as this is my traveling set up and I want folks to be able to see in (or crowd in under it in bad weather. The forge are usually takes up 1/2 of the tarp and the other half is "living space. After 20+ years of thunder storms, high winds and hail it's slowly falling apart on me and I'm looking for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Wow! That sounds pretty good Thomas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Link removed at the request of anvilfire Here's a link to a trailer based smithing setup on Anvilfire. A lot of work to build but it looks like a breeze to work from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 An old step van makes a nice mobile shop if you can get it passed by DMV. For public demos the side walls can be hinged to open easily. The outside panel hinges up and rests on poles, the inside hinges down and rests on jack stands for more floor space. You can even put a small jib boom crane in the back corner and rearrange your equipment at will. Tents are old stand bys and can be made flame retardant with a saturated solution of borax and water sprayed or brushed on. A thought I was working out when it looked like I was going to be doing demos at longer term events like the state fair was a knock down shop that fit on my trailer. I have a 16' car trailer so each component was base sized 8'x16' and locked together with pins and bolts. I used to have the cadd drawings but those were on a long dead computer and I don't have need anymore. Anyway, a knock down smithy could be based on a 4'x8' component size as well. Simply sheets of plywood or OSB with simple framing that pins and bolts together to make whatever size you want, within reason. Yes? The roof can be as simple as a tarp over plywood, OSB or a lumber frame. Be creative, you can have knock down modular everything: windows, doors, benches, shelves, show cases, desk, seating, TV and beer cooler even, maybe a bunk for SLEEP ON THE COUCH YOU! nights. The hardest thing is getting good electrical for lighting without spawning octopi. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 I did a little measuring and it looks like i'll be needing an 8x8' floor space. I think i'll build a smithy which i can take each wall and the roof apart with just a few bolts. I think i'll make the frame out of 2x4 and then put sheet metal on it. Maybe I can even get the sheet metal from some old dilapidated barn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zahg Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I did a little measuring and it looks like i'll be needing an 8x8' floor space. I think i'll build a smithy which i can take each wall and the roof apart with just a few bolts. I think i'll make the frame out of 2x4 and then put sheet metal on it. Maybe I can even get the sheet metal from some old dilapidated barn... If you can find it cheap on craigslist or scrounge it for free, I would use chain link 'top rail's' for the framing. Even if you buy it new it's about the same price as wood, and is much lighter to move around. =p Just weld up some couplings for the corners and bolt it all together. You could even use door hinges and corrugated steel/tin and make some 'roll up' wall's bolted onto the side rails for easy takedown. Gimme a sec here, lemme sketch this out real quick... Sorry for the pic quality, my scanner doesn't wanna work right now. Okay, there's the basic framing... Drew it out with an 8x8 floor in mind, you would most likely want to put in some cross bracing to make it stable. Tall wall is 8', shorter side is 7'. If my math is right,14-degree angle for the roof. And there is my idea for the 'quick takedown walls'. If you plan to set it up on dirt/grass I would make the corner posts about a foot longer from the bottom and bury them in for stability, or bury a smaller diameter piece with about a foot or 2 sticking out and slide the posts over them. Dunno if this will work for you, bit it popped into my head and I had to draw it out lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Here is an old patent for a portable building from year 1861. It might give you a few ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
395743 Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 Wow thanks Zahg! That is awesome! Thanks for the Drawings! That top drawing is how I think i'll build it. Now all I have to is watch craigslist for Corrugated sheet metal and chain link top rails. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zahg Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 No problem, just remember to add in some kind of cross bracing so it isn't wobbly. I was thinking on the back and side walls you could use steel cable and some medium sized turnbuckles(even the small 8" ones should be fine) crossing in an X, tighten the buckles and it should be plenty strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam Adkins Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I've been looking at horse trailers on craigslist and I found an old junker horse trailer for $600 near me. I was thinking that might meet my needs, but I don't know if I would end up having enough room to forge inside it... As for the yurt, are you guys serius? aren't they made of flamable material? I guess I'll look into it if y'all think it is a good idea. Thanks for the awesome advice, I'll definately look into the car port option too. My first shop was in an old goose neck horse trailer that I think I paid 500 for. It was 33 ft long, steel with rear and side doors and was so heavy I had to get someone to brig it to my place. the garage was falling over sideways as it was built in 1935 so the trailer was a sweet deal and worked for several years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Here is my shop trailer I take to demo's. Everything fits inside. No cover, but everything stays dry and it is easily moved. Now i am a scrounger, can weld and traded this and that. My total cost for the initial build was $42 in 2005. I have since added better springs and am now at about $150. That is an old Datsun pickup bed. Cut cab off, extended frame to hold tool box, forge and post drill on far side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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