any one make one of these Fabricated Swage Block's that anvilfire had a how-to on ?

was made out of Pieces of angle, pipe and bar all cut the same length welded together to make a solid block with holes and forming shapes.

Interesting concept, but it would be far faster, easier, and most likely cheaper to buy a used one, or have one flame cut from solid. Go to an industrial metalworking facility, you'd be amazed at what is "scrap"for them. I was given a 4.5"X24"X12" solid hunk of steel.

Aaron

I recognize that picture. This is a good idea if you like welding and chipping slag. You can probably make a functional but not as attractive of one with less internal structure.

That fabbed swage block would be OK as vee blocks and through-punching/drifting, but where are the typical "half round" swages? I inherited a small hardie, shop made swage block with four "half rounds" of different sizes. I think that Bud Beaston of the old Oklahoma Farriers' College made his swage block of a length of railroad track. For farriery, you would have "half round" depressions along with harness and race plate swages. I put half round in quotation marks, because the swage shapes are not fully half round. They are a scant half round.

Then, if you get a series of bottom swages, it is not always easy to find matching top swages.

i just need a place to make hardie's for my anvil , im not useing the one anvil i have to beet on that hard , shes old and only 120 pounds....

i just need a place to make hardie's for my anvil , im not useing the one anvil i have to beet on that hard , shes old and only 120 pounds....

there is no reason to have a swage block with a square hole to make/upset anvil tooling for your square hole. look for used or broken jackhammer points. the collar is already there for you and they are made of 1045 (or similar) steel which is perfect for tooling. check out Sam's recent thread here....



check local contractors or tool rental companies for points. usually available for scrap price.

I found a wide blade for earthwork, fairly short---about 4-5' as I recall but with large square holes in it perfect for whaling away on with a sledge.

One thing that really helps is to work on the stem at welding heat rather than the cool temp many folks work it at!

I picked up this shop made block from another smith who was moving her shop. Fabricated out of a heavy section of RR rail. Some interesting shapes and very useful for punching as one side is flat and covered with different sized holes.

I don't know if I'd have put the effort into making one, even if I had the equipment.

a swage block is one of those time or money equations. You can spend time or you can spend money, whichever you have an excess of. but I think a real block at the premium prices they go for might serve better, especially if you're somewhat new to smithing and your craft and inclinations haven't settled down yet.

I made a striking anvil out a piece of steel 2 1/2" x 5" x 12" with a 1" square hole in it the same style like Brian Brazeal My anvil only has a 5/8" hardie hole. I have made mini swedge blocks that fit in my hardie hole. I also bought a swedge block but it dose not have holes in it so I needed an other option. one of the problems with welding up a swedge block you are going to need a bigger shelf around each square hole or you will end up forcing the metal into the next hole not on a flat surface. If you can compensate for that its a lot of fillet welds and a lot of grinding.

I have a nice thick block of steel it's just getting a square hole into this is the problem

Drill a round one and then drift it square!

It be easier to weld the thing up then dig a hole in 4 in. Block of steel....

Use a piece of that leaf spring you just picked up. A 1" hole would be easy to drill out after annealing, and then all you have to do is drift it to spec and mount it on a sturdy stump. You could do it with a 4" thick piece of steel, and I'd be sorely tempted, but getting it up to a working temp to drift the hole would be a chore.

A modern machine shop would be able to cut a nearly perfect square hole to your specs using a electically charged thin brass wire machine that is used to cut intricate shapes ... Not sure the proper name and dont want to butcher the proper name. I plan on this winter to have several holes cut for a homemade stake anvil holder. rough stock is 1" X 12" x 24" mild steel plate.

A modern machine shop would be able to cut a nearly perfect square hole to your specs using a electically charged thin brass wire machine that is used to cut intricate shapes ... Not sure the proper name and dont want to butcher the proper name. I plan on this winter to have several holes cut for a homemade stake anvil holder. rough stock is 1" X 12" x 24" mild steel plate.

EDM

i might look in to that , i have 2 blocks i can use , if it is not a arm and leg ill have them do it....

big 111 pounder


small 40 some pounder

This is the one I built based on the anvil fire design. It's not very big, but it has some nice shapes to bend and form metal on. Someday, I'll get around to finishing the fourth side of it.

If you are using a block of steel for an anvil, why not weld a "very heavy" walled piece of square tubing on the side of your block?  Hardy hole tools that require low to moderate striking could be used directly in the hole.  If using your hardy tool involves heavy hammering, weld a post near the side of a heavy piece of plate, then weld your hardy tool on that plate.

I thought about making one of these myself. but it is a lot of weldign and i didnt like the idea of grinding it all flat. I also only have an arc welder so thats a lot of slag to chip off.

Send some progress pictures if you try it please.

drilling is not that hard just do it in passes I did 1/4", 3/8", 1/2",3/4" and then 1" it did not take long at all then I filled mine square took about an hour to file.